Odometer Repair: Tutorial

[GlueckAuf]

I believe that's by design. The two counters operate independently.

Zero your trip odometer exactly when the main odometer mile changes and I believe they'll be in sync. (Unless I misunderstand.)

Good road,

[abiby]

Well, duhhhh.....

[nobby]

Originally Posted by GlueckAuf

I believe that's by design. The two counters operate independently.

Zero your trip odometer exactly when the main odometer mile changes and I believe they'll be in sync. (Unless I misunderstand.)

Good road,

I was thinking the worst. Never considered the easiest.

I'll try that.

Thanks.

[bluewater1]

Originally Posted by GlueckAuf

Great tutorial, Herr Nobby. I just checked my odometer gears expecting to find nothing awry as it's never missed a beat tallying the miles on Benzedrine--but wouldn't ya know, I'm missing a single tooth on gear E1.

I ordered the set to fix this issue, too, before my instruments go back in.

I might add that in looking at my gears, the number of teeth is marked on each one. If you clean away the grime, you may as I did find the markings "z16" and "z48" on gear E3, and "z12" and "z48" on gear E2. ("Z" stands for zahn, deutsch for tooth.)

This might help ensure others order the correctly-toothed E3 from Odometer Gear, as this particular gear's inner cog is available in 12, 13, 15, 16, and 18 teeth. (And especially if an indeterminate number of teeth have broken off!)

Again, you're a hero, bud. Great piece!

Good road,

Thanks for pointing out Z(ahn) represents tooth. Now I do not need to count the number of teeth.

[gerkebi]

Originally Posted by bluewater1

Thanks for pointing out Z(ahn) represents tooth. Now I do not need to count the number of teeth.

...

[GlueckAuf]

You're welcome, bud.

One other bit of news I should pass along on the topic of odometer gears is the response I got from Odometer Gears when I inquired about the apparent noisiness of their hard plastic, dry-installed gears vs the soft, factory-greased OEM gears:

"Rarely, we do hear this complaint in the Mercedes 107 chassis. The cure is to apply a thin layer of wheel bearing/axle grease in the teeth of the E2 and E3 outer part of the gear (the 48 tooth count section). This will deaden the noise and cure the concern. The grease will not degrade our new gears like it does on the OE gears. The OE gears fail because the grease reacts with the urethane and causes them to break down and become waxy and fail.

Kind regards,
Darren Shackelford

Odometer Gears Ltd.
72 Croatan Road
Newport News, VA 23606
757-593-3478
757-771-6694

So there ya go!

Good road,

[2minibenz]

Thanks! I put this off for over a year mainly because of trouble trying to remove the steering wheel. I found that your tutorial, and others on the wheel removal, made this an easy project. Use a heat gun for a minute or two to heat the hex bolt and the wheel removal is an easy job.

I do have a guestion in regard to the cluster housing. After disasembly and cleaning it now has a gap between the lens and housing that I don't remember. I have taken it apart twice and it looks correct but...........?

[ussun]

My trip miles counter stopped last fall.
But it started on it's own this spring so.
So I'm glad I didn't have it fixed.

[2minibenz]

Originally Posted by ussun

My trip miles counter stopped last fall.
But it started on it's own this spring so.
So I'm glad I didn't have it fixed.

It is just a matter of time on the odometer repair. The three gears turn to mush and fall apart.....but it is an easy fix so don't worry.

Also I see the light....through the gap in the housing...and that is a good thing. I just did not remember it being there when I disassembled every thing.

[nobby]

Originally Posted by GlueckAuf

Zero your trip odometer exactly when the main odometer mile changes and I believe they'll be in sync. (Unless I misunderstand.)

Good road,

It worked. Thanks.