Jacking and Jack Stand Positions - Page 3 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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#21 (permalink) Old 04-05-2009, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by rowdie View Post
I made these so I could still move the car around while the engine was out. I added a pipe under the car to bolt them together because they tended to flex apart. Worked OK. Would have rolled better with bigger casters and shorter pipe. But I could push the whole car around myself with a little effort.
That's a great idea. Simple yet elegent.

BTW, looking at your design, you could get pretty much the same effect of the pipe under the car with a third caster just inboard of the lift point.
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#22 (permalink) Old 04-05-2009, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by volvo164 View Post
Anyone notice this as well?
One of the first things I noticed on my car was that jacking it up didn't flex the body at all. At one point I had one wheel jacked up high enough that it was balanced on one tire and the jack, on opposite corners of the car. The driver side door still opened and closed with a sound like a vault. I've jacked up other cars where you couldn't open the door, there was enough body flex to jam them shut.


When I die, I want to go quietly in my sleep, like Grandpa.
Not screaming, like the people in his car.



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#23 (permalink) Old 04-05-2009, 08:32 PM
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From the front I lift mine up at point #3. From the back I use the differential.

From the sides I use the seam use below each jack hole.



Quote:
Originally Posted by lfedje View Post
You all know that I know dick all about mechanics, but I am trying.

I am in the process of cleaning up the undercarriage of my 73 450SL and would like advice on the proper jacking points for a floor jack and the proper placement of the Jack Stands.

Front End:

Any problem with options 1 and 3, or is it highly recommended that the proper place is a 2x4 between the jack and oil pan?

The Jack Stand points appear to be quite obvious.



Back End:

Jack point under the differential.
Jack stand points as shown in the photo?



Loren
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#24 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009, 06:06 PM
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They make rubber pads for the jackstands that follow the recesses in the stand. These avoid any metal to metal contact yet still allow placing them under the jack tubes.
I got mine at Harbor Freight, however you should be able to find them at most any parts or hardware store.
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
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#25 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by lfedje View Post
You all know that I know dick all about mechanics, but I am trying.

I am in the process of cleaning up the undercarriage of my 73 450SL and would like advice on the proper jacking points for a floor jack and the proper placement of the Jack Stands.

Front End:

Any problem with options 1 and 3, or is it highly recommended that the proper place is a 2x4 between the jack and oil pan?

The Jack Stand points appear to be quite obvious.



Back End:

Jack point under the differential.
Jack stand points as shown in the photo?



Loren
I remember your original post but at the time did not notice one thing.

YOUR SUBFRAME HAS BEEN MODIFIED! Cool. Good picture of the welded gussets.
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#26 (permalink) Old 06-01-2010, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by isthisdave View Post
The service manual procedure for jacking from the front says use the oil sump, with proper blocking.
Is there anywhere in the 107 manuals that says to normally lift this way?

I know that some jobs in manual say to lift this way, but looking for a general instruction that says this is OK.

I, like Rowdie, do it sometimes, but the load is on sump very briefly while I slide jack stand under frame beams.
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#27 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 07:16 AM
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Guys I may be doing this wrong but I am chicken when it comes to having a car fall on me. The only place I will put Jack stands in under the frames built into the unibody for several reasons.
1) I want a flat surface that has enough room for the jackstand to move and still be under the frame. When you lift two or 4 wheels off the ground especially high enough to do some serious work on they tend to shift a little.
2) the other areas listed have irregular shapped sufaces and scare me. If you ever have had to seriously pry something from underneath or untighten flex disks bolts the car can move a little.
3) this is where they place the pads on an automotive lift and it is a very stable area. No body flex
4) the subframe bushing mounts on the rear just don't look that strong to me compared to the frame.
5) Oil pan is recomended but I wont use it. If they are that picky on torquing the oil pan bolts so as not to squeeze the gasket than how much squeeze is on the gasket if you lift the car with it. Plus if anything goes wrong the downside makes you pull the motor.
6) any other areas to me have either a saftey concern or a damaged part concern.

when I was young I had a car fall while i was prying front end parts and lucky for me I saw it rock a little and got out of the way so I may be overly anal about this but it has never happened again.

Please be very carefull of which jackstands that you use. Cheap one can be dangerous. I am so anal I actually use 12 x 12 blocks of wood and 4x4's. They have more surface area touching the floor and the car. They are a little more trouble to work around but they are impossible to tip.
Sorry for being so long winded but when we dont do this daily or for a living it can be easy for us to get into trouble and it can happen in an instance.
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#28 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 02:23 PM
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it has been pointed out earlier that if you jack the oil pan the weight of the car is hanging on the motor mounts, cannot be a good thing. besides there are so many other places to put a jack why would you want to?
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#29 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 1968 View Post
it has been pointed out earlier that if you jack the oil pan the weight of the car is hanging on the motor mounts, cannot be a good thing. besides there are so many other places to put a jack why would you want to?
It is sometimes useful if you want to lift whole front at one time with one jack. Car is not left hanging on motor mounts, because you slip jackstands under chassis frame a soon as you have it up. But if there is no need to do this, then you are right - why do it?

MB do specify this method of lifting for some jobs. (in the M116/117 engine manual) They say to use a wood shim under oil pan. I use a piece of 3/4" plywood nailed to a 2x6.

Last edited by MBGraham; 06-02-2010 at 04:39 PM.
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#30 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 05:39 PM
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Hi there.
It depends on the job which I do on the car,but most of the time I lift the car up on #3 position {the heavy crossmember} in the front.
In the back I use the differential housing.
I made some special stainless rods for the jack tubes hole as the pictures show.
I also use cement blocks for safety, on all four wheels.
best regards Kurt
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