I don't recall having to remove the knee bolster. If you do have to remove the knee bolster, I thought it requires a 10mm socket.

The speakers covers are very easy to install if you just slip a piece of thin plastic or cardboard behind the metal strip and then slip the plastic under the two metal clips. Then slide the plastic with speaker cover up into position.

 

I don't recall having to remove the knee bolster. If you do have to remove the knee bolster, I thought it requires a 10mm socket.

Mine required it because the screws were hidden and it sure gives you a lot more access and room to work in. YMMV

I think I had to use an 11mm but just get both out and you'll be sure

 

Part 2

Now you want to run your wires and get everything hooked up. Remember to have all the parts on hand and make it a clean install (not like mine with some ends covered and others open, etc). And if you are good at soldering that might be a better way to goo than crimping.

Note -- those cheap crimping tools are crap.

So you're ready to install the speaker. This is where that lip becomes a pain, more so on the drivers side than the passengers since you don't have the stalks and wheel in the way. I wound up using the panel tool as a sort of a wedge between the lip and the edge of the speaker to help push the speaker in. That lip is quit stiff considering it's size.

TEST each component before closing it up. Just trust me

I didn't know roncallo's system so I used the panel tool to hold the farthest clip out a bit and angling the cover got it under the bar then repeated with the nearest and slip the cover up. You might need to reposition the metal clip so the screws will go in the holes. But that is easily seen and done with the GB liner out and the tips of the screws.

Remember that there appears to be much more depth to work with on the PS than the DS

NOTE -- MB has a great grounding spot waiting should you need it. Just another ring terminal and you're done.

Cool PS side done

Drivers Side.

If you need to remove the knee bolster, I'd recommend it since it gives a lot more room to work in, there are two small plastic caps, you need to remove, on the front bottom edge of the bolster.

Cap removed

Using the extension and either an 11 or 10mm socket you need to loosen the clamping nut. They have a lot of thread so loosen a good bit.

Clamping Nut - exposed

Knee bolster removed

Now just slide the bolster forward and it will release when you get to the large holes.

OK pain in the A$$ time. Because of the tight fit behind the stalks it is more difficult than the PS but is the same steps for RR.

Also, it appears that the depth is less, large metal support bar running along the back top of the dash,

so my DS speaker currently sticks out a bit, 1/8 to 1/4", and the cover doesn't fit flush when I rotate the tweeter to face me.

Yes I know, this pic doesn't show the tweeter rotated.

I got bored with this and will get back to making it flush when it cools down.
Now just reverse the process and put it all back together. Again, TEST before closing up.

 

Part 3

There is a small access panel in the back of the GB liner that can be used to run accessory cables through. I used it for the iPod cable on the new HU.

Also, if you want to run rear speakers there is a good bit of space under the chrome trim piece on the DS floor, under the door. The PS appears to be where the power is run from the trunk battery to the terminal under the hood.
As we all know don't want speaker wires and power leads next to each other.

 

Nice documentation, Mike. I plan to do this to my '88 soon- Thanks!

How do the Focals sound?

Chief

 

How do the Focals sound?

Heck compared to the original my son's singing was better. I originally went with a set of Infinity Kappa 42.7i's (4" coax) in the front and Kappa 692.7i's (6x9 coax) in the rear with an Alpine 9887 HU. The Infinities were to sharp or tinny, to my ear, and the 6x9's didn't have the bass response I was looking for.

So I switched to the Focal 100CVX (4" coax) in the front and 690CVX (6x9 coax) in the rear. They have a much sweeter sound, if that makes sense?

But for 2.5 times the price I would hope for a different sound. Also, the Focal magnets have got to be 2 to 3 times larger so I'm sure that helps the bass response and performance.

 

I did a HU (Alpine) replacement at the same time. The HU had the striped wires as negative so that's how I wired all the speakers. Not really sure it makes a difference though as long as all the speakers are the same. Otherwise you will have phase (one speaker pushing out while the other pulls in plus an approximately 3ms delay in the signal) problems.

Now the 3ms difference is going to be a problem because I know all of you have Time Adjusted/Aligned (TA) your speakers. Right?

 

Given that I won't be going to an external amplifier, subwoofers?? and other stuff I don't understand, is there any point in having 4 speakers instead of 2?

The deeper the note, the more air you have to move to get that note reproduced on a stereo system. A small speaker - like the ones in the dash - simply can't move enough air to reproduce deep notes. You'll have no effective bass. That isn't a problem for everyone, so maybe you won't care.

 

can someone enlighten me on aptly anmed "knee bolster" feature?

Somewhat i feel disadvantaged now!
Why only US spec cars seem to have such contraption?
I want one no matter that i do not know the purpose of it!!!

 

I was wondering the same. I don't have one in my 380.

Pic from scottyb's thread.

 

:lol:
I have the very same radio... it matches the interior perfectly



Is a knee bolster a conspicuos way to hide woof-woofer maybe?

Someone please help here, pleaseeee

 

I believe the bolster is a safety device, intended to prevent you from sliding under the dash in a crash, allowing the airbag to cushion the upper body.
That's the theory anyway.

 

:?

If you have 3 point safety belt, how can you slide?

\

I googled Bolster... that lead into description of what is "dutch wife"... and now I definitely WANT that bolster

Dutch wife - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

For rear speakers run the wire as nobby said on the drivers side. You can go to WalMart and buy a pre-made box for either 6x9 or 6.5" speakers. Look where they sell auto speakers. Takes about 5 minutes to put together and They cost about 13 US each. they are slightly angled up and give you a bit of a chamber for added bass. You just set them on the rear parcel and done.

 

The knee bars came about with the idea of a totally passive restraint system used in conjunction with the air bags, i.e., not using the seatbelt, and was intended to keep you from sliding under the dash (at the expense of your knees).

 

Hate to bring up a old thread but wanted to say thanks for the detailed directions on how to remove everything. Didnt replace speakers but did replace the fabric on the speaker covers . Thank God for hot glue , did a good job on all broken parts as you said