And I was hoping to get a little help on a couple of issues:
1: when lifting of the air intake I noticed an unconnected hose(in addition to the unconnected breather hose I was fixing in the first place), that appeared to be ripped over, and then with his usual elegance the former owner put a screw in the hose to block it. Does anybody know what this hose is and what is does, and where it should be connect to. it appears that the hose runs under the throttlebody between the V of the cylinders I have tired to highlight it on the picture.
2: idle, the engine idles very high 1500 rpm and the idle screw is at the min setting (by turning the idle screw I can increase the idle to 2500 rpm)
3: on occasion the engine will run extremely poor (not firing on cylinders??) basically it feels like the engine could jump out of the car at any given moment, and it has very poor power. Then I can turn it off, let it sit of a minute or two, and it will start right up and run normally
#3 I've been ask the guys on this site, about just about the same problem. But I still have it. I've been saving a little and will proably give it to a MB dealer to figure it out, this spring
if you have high idle, that indicates a vacuum problem. Even if a hose is plugged, do not assume it is airtight. Is that towards the back of the motor, left side standing in front of the car? That would be the transmission modulator feed tube which determines shift points and strength. You might have a leak there.
Even so, it is best to check all vacuum lines and rubber fittings for cracking/brittleness so you go and replace them. Also check your idle control valve, remove clean it out with WD-40, test the solenoid with a 12V battery (like from an portable drill) and make sure it closes/shuts easily.
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the moments your engine revs "poorly" could be the moment when actualy everything works well but since you have it set for higher rev "handling", all the setting will be very low hence choking.
I'd look for serious vacuum leaks past injector booths/O-rings on sleeves or anywhere between metering (just after air filter) all the way to the intake manifolds.
I read in Haynes manual that the easiest way to look for serious vacuum leaks is to spray start-up spray (spray that helps bad engine start up) onto suspected areas. When leak sucks in the spray you will notice engine rev change. However, I find this procedure quite dangerous (fire) for people with no or little knowledge of how Otto engine works.
IF YOU DO IT, YOU ARE DOING IT AT YOUR OWN RISK!
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If you have nothing in your head and a hammer in your hand... everything looks like a nail.
You were right on with the transmission modulator, the shifting is now perfect. thanks..
I cleaned out the cold start valve, and checked the function all ok. but the idle is still strage, I tried adjusting the idle screw and I can get it up in rev's but it does not run good all the time, it will suddenly change for running good to miserable..
There is a small diameter vacume hose that is between the fire wall and the rear of the fuel injector (thankfully near the top of the engine) that when disconnected makes the engine run rough. This might be off/need replacement.The reason you have a vacume hose with a screw in it is because you have the wrong type hose running under your air cleaner. The OEM hose has a spot for that vacume hose to hook to. It appears like the PO of your car used a piece of generic hose to replace the OEM hose.
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