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Best Glue?

3K views 10 replies 9 participants last post by  Alkraut 
#1 ·
What is the best/strongest/longest lasting glue to use for the wood dash strips on a 107? I had my wood refinished a little over a month ago. The wood looks beautiful, but the two strips on either side of the glove box handle came unglued after about a month (so far, all the other pieces are holding). I'm told the installer used "thick gel super glue." Is there anything out there that would do a better job? Thanks in advance.
 
#2 ·
SLeazy Rider said:
What is the best/strongest/longest lasting glue to use for the wood dash strips on a 107? I had my wood refinished a little over a month ago. The wood looks beautiful, but the two strips on either side of the glove box handle came unglued after about a month (so far, all the other pieces are holding). I'm told the installer used "thick gel super glue." Is there anything out there that would do a better job? Thanks in advance.
I plan to use contact glue - the same kind of stuff used for formica countertops. Spread a thin layer on both the trim and where it'll be mounted in the dash, allow it to dry for 15-20 minutes, then CAREFULLY position the trim and press it into place. I say carefully because once the two pieces touch each other, they won't let go.

The emergency brake pedal cover in my regular car kept sliding off - irritated the crap out of me - and I tried several different things, but couldn't get anything to stick to the metal part that would last. I bought a small container of contact cement and it went together great and hasn't come off in a year. I put on the emergency brake every time I park (habit from living in a hilly town) and this stuff just holds.

You can buy contact glue with different viscosity, I plan to get some of the thinner stuff, so I can paint it on with a brush. The important things to remember when using it are to follow the instructions for drying time before you try to put the pieces together and then be very careful when they first come in contact. There's no room at all for error.
 
#3 ·
Someone suggested to use "3M Hi-Strength 90 Spray Adhesive" spray into a cap and brush. Hold for a little while, it isn't ever coming off.
 
#5 ·
Agreed

page62 said:
Head on down to your local marine store and get the West System repair kit. That's more than enough epoxy. You can also repair broken china, and all those other things around the house that are broken, but you gotta work fast. Stuff catalyzes in no time
 
#8 ·
Thought I would give a follow-up. First time I've visited the site in months. Anyway, I bought some contact cement but was scared to use it without first trying something that might get me into less trouble. So, at the same time I bought the cement, I also bought some 3M double sided tape. I tried the tape first and it has worked great. Easy to apply; no risk of dripping anywhere; and it has held fast now for a couple months. It's a little thicker than I would like (pushing the wood strip out a little), but I'm probably the only once who notices. It's a nice alternative. If the tape ever gives way, I can still go back and try the cement. No harm done.
 
#10 ·
3M contact cement part number 1357 comes in pints, quarts, gallons. Works just like Scott says and virtually on any surface. It doesn't like water, however. It will maintain its glueability (??)under cold or hot conditions (unlike two sided tape).
The "spray" glues are not as effective long term as it is diluted to enable it to be propelled out of the can, so it loses strength. Epoxy has its uses but it needs a certain thickness to be effective and it doesn't like smooth surfaces.


My opinion on the dash trim is 3M contact cement.
 
#11 ·
I used the two-part clear epoxy on mine. Comes in a dual in dual plunger. mix well and apply small amounts with a toothpick. Allow a bit of space near edges so it does not squish out. Wipe any excess right away with rag. You could use some masking tape to hold it in place. I used the stuff that hardens in less than an hour.
 
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