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Overheating...

13K views 25 replies 14 participants last post by  BayAreaBenz85  
#1 · (Edited)
I see quite a few posts about the W107 running "too hot". Often times, it seems the reports are of the engine running above 100C at times, etc, etc. Also, I often see the results best described as the "shot-gun approach" when it comes to diagnosis, ie replace this, replace that, etc.

First, let me suggest it be determined IF overheating is actually occurring at all. The W107, and many other MB engines are designed to run "hot" compared to what us USA folk are used to from Detroit/Japan. It is not uncommon for these engines to run close to the 100C mark, with occasional excursions above also common. Anecdotally, this seems "hot" when compared to the iron I'm used to, but it is normal and by design. If the excursions above 100 are frequent, and near/into the red, then you have cause for concern. While its true a 560Sl has an 80C thermostat, it is not fully open until 94C. Realizing this, its easy to see how the gauge in the dash could rise above 100 while the thermostat is reacting, assuming the two react equally for a given temperature, and hover near 100 during normal operation.

If an engine is overheating (really, to be accurate, we should say the coolant temperature is above design criteria), the obvious question is WHY? Really, there are only two reasons... Either the engine/tranny is generating too much heat for the cooling system, or the cooling system is not functioning adequately. Often, the assumption (and more often than not, correctly), is that the cooling system is "faulty"; however, this may not always be the case. One should consider the state of tune of the engine among the lists of items to check. An engine that is out of optimum tune, ie running very lean, or otherwise compromised will be guilty of generating more heat than the cooling system was originally designed to accomodate. The engine timing is also critically important to the state of tune, and the heat thereby generated. The tranny's health must also be brought into the fray as it can contribute directly and indirectly to cooling system inadequacies: directly by tranny fluid running above normal, transferring heat directly to the cooling fluid, and indirectly by inducing strain on the engine if not coupling/shifting correctly. Given that we are considering vehicles around 18-30 years of age, there may be more heat in the system than originally designed due to mechanical weakness in the drivetrain. Another list of things to consider can be called extraneous causes and can be related to dragging brakes, missing/mal-adjusted fan shrouds, tire aspect ratio and inflation, ratio of antifreeze/water, etc. Even the type and grade of oil can contribute to an engine producing higher levels of heat than originally designed.

If one accepts the above postulates, then it becomes incumbent upon the examiner to consider many factors aside from only the cooling system parts, ie clutch fan, thermostat, radiator, etc. In reality, for equipment of the age and mileage we are concerned with here, the cause will likely be a combination of these factors. The holistic approach must therefore be utilized in ascertaining a solution.

I suggest the following:
1. reSEARCH to determine what "normal" should be (expect a range).

2. Test to be certain overheating of the cooling fluid is actually happening. By test, I mean, utilize measurement devices beyond the gauge in the dash.

3. Check for extraneous causes. Focus on anything that has been changed recently, or serviced, etc.

4. Examine the systems, heat generating (engine/drivetrain) and heat exchanging (cooling system).

Somewhere within, the answer lies...


Author's note: The opinions expressed here are belonging to the author, and have been developed from years of mechanical experience with engines from motorcycles to freight locomotives and are by no means all inclusive or solely limited to the items mentioned.
 
#2 ·
Ears said:
Author's note: The opinions expressed here are belonging to the author, and have been developed from years of mechanical experience with engines from motorcycles to freight locomotives and are by no means all inclusive or solely limited to the items mentioned.

Those opinions are, however, most fortunately shared by me as well.
 
#3 ·
I've spent a lot of time and money fretting on this subject; thermostats, caps, water pumps, fan clutches (need a spare?), and even having the radiator cleaned (the guy who did it said that many aren't as clean as mine was when I brought it in AFTER he's cleaned 'em). Now, I just keep an eye on it and if the gauge doesn't hit 100C, I don't worry about it (it can get close on a warm day stuck in traffic after a 70 MPH expressway drive). It never does, and I don't worry.
 
#5 ·
thank you!

I think you are right about us old mercedes drivers becoming neurotic about the heat up of the engine. I notice even when the car seens to be hot the engine never stalls or vapor locks and seems to run good. The toyota I occassionally drive always stays at 80C even in really hot weather. I don't know for sure, but I think that the weather in Germany is on the cool side, and even in the manual it says the coolant temperature may rise to redline in hot ambient weather.

I guess we've all been exposed to the american and japanese cooling and can't contain our fears about warping the aluminum head. Cool, thank you for this post, it has addressed the concerns I have.
 
#6 ·
And if you have a 380SL make sure you do the thermostat modifications (break off the centering pin and drill 2 small holes in the thermostat frame) or you'll get a wide thermostat swing when you start the car. Mine would go from cold to 110 then settle to 80 within about 10 seconds. When I brought it up on another website I was chastised for something that "everybody" knew. I know that we're all better than that!
 
#7 ·
OK, you all talk about 100C my 450SL is in Farenhight (Sorry for spelling) mine starts at 175 and goes up from there. Usually mine will hit 200 degrees when in traffic and hot weather. Is mine OK. The people that work on the car say it's fine, just do not let it get close to the red. So
 
#8 · (Edited)
Greggie C said:
OK, you all talk about 100C my 450SL is in Farenhight (Sorry for spelling) mine starts at 175 and goes up from there. Usually mine will hit 200 degrees when in traffic and hot weather. Is mine OK. The people that work on the car say it's fine, just do not let it get close to the red. So
Lets see... 200-32= 168
168x5=840
840/9=93.3
I'd think 93.3C is a right nice temperature.

Remember, 200F is lower than the boiling point of water at atmospheric pressure of 1 atmosphere.
 
#13 ·
daryn said:
I guess we've all been exposed to the american and japanese cooling and can't contain our fears about warping the aluminum head. Cool, thank you for this post, it has addressed the concerns I have.
The fears do have some basis - ask a friend of mine whose leaky radiator cost him $2500 on his Lexus. MB's are made of the same materials as everyone else's. It doesn't hurt to keep an eye on it.
 
#14 ·
radiator

actually the mbz radiator is made of brass rather than the aluminum radiators common on jap and american cars, which is both good and bad. brass is more durable and flushable, but will not dissipate the heat like a good aluminum radiator. I wouldn't ignore a leaky radiator either, because antifreeze stinks when it evaporates!
 
#15 ·
daryn said:
actually the mbz radiator is made of brass rather than the aluminum radiators common on jap and american cars, which is both good and bad. brass is more durable and flushable, but will not dissipate the heat like a good aluminum radiator. I wouldn't ignore a leaky radiator either, because antifreeze stinks when it evaporates!
Daryn,

perhaps some MB rads are brass, but the radiator (BEHR) on a 560SL is aluminum, with plastic tanks...
 
#16 ·
really, must be newer stuff. I know mine is a full brass radiator, including the top tank. Aluminum would likely have better cooling capacities than the brass, that's why the dragsters have a deep dish aluminum radiator.
 
#26 ·
Not super knowledgeable about Mercedes really so take this however you will, but my ‘72 350SL runs about the same as it’s max and less when on the freeway. I guess I just assumed that unless it got close or started going in the red at all that’s when I’d worry but even idling forever it doesn’t go any higher than your photo. I’ve read quite a few threads on this and it seems that while some of the folks here have cars that run cooler, mostly I haven’t heard many worried about readings like your photo.