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Old 08-09-2006, 11:45 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jun 2006
Vehicle: 1985 500SL Euro
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85 500SL Oil Change

I have seen a lot of information on oil changes for various R107's, but nothing specific to my model.

I own an '85 500SL and it is about that time to do an oil change. Now, I have been doing oil changes on my cars for the past several years, but being a new and different car, I want to know that I am doing what I need to.

What weight should I use? I live in the south where it gets in the high 90's with a lot of humidity for the most part of the summer. Winter doesn't get too low. Only in the 30's or so at the lowest point. I want to go synthetic as this is my daily driver.

What filter should I use and where would I be able to get it?

Please note that this will be my daily driver and it has done wonderfully thus far, but I need to find out the best way to treat it.
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Old 08-09-2006, 12:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I use Castrol Syntec 10W40 in mine. Mobil 1 filter, or second choice Bosch.
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Old 08-12-2006, 09:47 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Living in the south, you should run 20w50 oil and use any good quality filter such as Mann/ Hecht. The euro 500 motors will generate a lot of heat so in the summer go with 20w50 and in the winter 10w40.

Regards,
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Old 08-15-2006, 09:29 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I agree. I have only used Catrol 20w-50 in my 2 benzs, 380 SE and 500SL.
Mike
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Old 08-15-2006, 10:34 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Date registered: Feb 2006
Vehicle: 1979. 450 SL
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Talking Oil

I have 12 vehicles to keep up. (Pest Control Company).
Best thing I have done is Molybond for about 3-6 oil changes, then Mobil 1 for 3-6 changes. Repeat. I have put the molybond in many different vehicles, ranging from 1 ton Ford, 3/4 ton, 1/2 ton, small trucks, GEO tracker Airstream motor home, 79 450 SL, Dodge, to name a few. Before the 5th tank of gas I have had to reduce the idle on every vehicle.

Friend of mine runs the Mobil bulk plant ,and can use any oil he wants. He uses Mobil 1 in every vehicle including the 18 wheel transport trucks. He changes the oil every 7500 miles. The Geo my dad drives was previously owned by a chemical engenier for Mobil, the man knows his oil and swears by Mobil 1.

As I understand it molibdinum hardens metal when heated. Mobil 1 does not burn but will break down at 795 degrees F. You have no plug wires at that temp.
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Old 08-15-2006, 02:29 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I'm running lubromoly 10-40 or castrol 10-40, matters how much cash i have. Last time i used a mann filter, but I think the fram filter was better, I don't know why b/c I had to special order it for 10bucks and I can get a mann for $5 and pick it up the same day. I don't know about synthetic oil, maybe for a 500 it would be good, but I don't think they even had synthertic back in the 70s.

I'll ask my old man if molydisulfide hardens metal when heated, he's a metalurgist and should be able to tell me. I know they use it in a lot of lubes, I think its like graphite.
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Old 08-15-2006, 09:01 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Synthetic Oil

No jet engine has ever run successfully on natural oil. The first jet engine was developed durring world WWII (if not before).

Syntetic oil been around a loooong time. Just not to us.

I tried to use 5w20 in Indiana. It was 21 below (F) and I could not get the oil out of the can. At 45 below Mobil 1 pours like water and breaks down at 795.

I usually just go 10w30 year round I am about 30 N lat.
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Old 08-17-2006, 11:39 AM   #8 (permalink)
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that's cool, try to pour the solid motor oil. My car is lucky that it doesn't have to deal with the extreme cold. You would have to put a heater under the car to get it started, booo.

synthetic is not suppossed to break down like regular oil or something like that, but have people been putting it into cars for a long time? I don't know, but were people back in the 1970s putting syntec into the "real" american muscle cars, with over 12:1 compression like old mopar stuff. You know those engines have to heat up. It's pretty interesting!
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