I too doubt it. Don't worry I have been led in a wild goose chase already by posting in the W201. Everything they suggested has not helped yet I stated right from the get go that please give a solution only if you know what you're talking about.
Anyway, on my way home a half hour ago after leaving Johns Hopkins graduation ceremony and getting stuck in a stop and go traffic with the 560SEL that I could not bleed its brakes for the life of me I now have come to a decision: I am going to break and take both cars to the dealer.
Shane, can you please recommend a lube. I am probably going to need a tub of that stuff
I have pretty good experience bleeding brakes and clutches on cars and motorcycles, as I have done it so many times, and always successfully. I have rebuilt many a brake caliper, and one time I even sucked the brake master cylinder dry by accident, which makes subsequent brake bleeding more difficult.
I use an extremely simple one man method. A 3-4 ft length of clear vinyl tubing of right size to tightly fit over the bleeding screw, the other end submerged in a 1/2 quart plastic bottle 1/2 full of brake fluid. I open the bleeder about 1/2 turn, pump the brake pedal about ten times, close the bleeder, then replenish the master cylinder with brake fluid. I can see air bubbles inside the tubing as the fluid is expelled from the caliper. The submerged end prevents air from being sucked into the system. I repeat this process until the brake fluid coming out of the caliper is free of air bubbles.
I had people tell me that you cannot bleed brakes this way, and that the fluid will be sucked back into the system when the brake pedal is released. BS. Works great! You never want to use a hand held vacuum pump for bleeding brakes that have air trapped inside lines or calipers. A vacuum pump is good for replacing the brake fluid only in an air free system, but even then I never use it.
If you get air inside the master cylinder, the best way to fix the problem is to disconnect the brake lines from the cylinder, use a master cylinder bleeding kit which comes with plastic screw in fittings (can buy one from a Carquest store). You screw these fittings into the line ports, attach short sections of clear tubing to them and route the tubing into the master reservoir and submerge it in the fluid. You pump the brake pedal repeatedly until fluid coming out into reservoir is free of bubbles. This is equivalent to bench bleeding of the master cylnder without removing it from the car. You always do this when installing a new master cylinder. Otherwise brake bleeding will be frustrating. It can still be done (and I have done it that way) but it takes a long time and patience.