Joel Schneider I need your help - Page 3 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-15-2008, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
worst mod in BW history
 
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The wires are already there. The guy I bought the truck from had his own inverter hooked up but like I said, instead of using a red wire for pos and black wire for neg, he just used 2 black wires. They take a very convoluted path back to the battery box and I don't want to fry a new inverter so yeah, like Dope said, I want to identify which is the pos and which is the neg or even if the wires are stripped somewhere and creating a short.

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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-15-2008, 07:04 PM
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Did you do the test with the engine on or off?
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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-15-2008, 07:06 PM
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Do you have a regular multimeter?
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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-15-2008, 07:09 PM
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In DC wiring, negative is typically depicted as black or brown, and positive as red.

In AC wiring, common is typically depicted as white, and load is typically depicted as black or red. Green is ground. Ground and common are sourced at the same point back at the fusebox.
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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-15-2008, 07:10 PM
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He doesn't have that luxury of color coding since the PO just stuck two black wires in there
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post #26 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-15-2008, 07:14 PM
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TK, here is a simple trick:
Have an extra wire and connect it to the chassis inside the cabin.
Take ONE of the black wires (that you are puzzled with) and connect it to the positive of the inverter
connect the wire I told you to attach to the chassis to the negative of the inverter
If the inverter kicks, you got the the positive wire.
If it doesn't then you grounded both inputs which should not affect the inverter, in that case pick the other wire and stick it in the + input instead.

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post #27 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-15-2008, 07:15 PM
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Oh, if your truck is wired backward then you will fry the inverter
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post #28 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-15-2008, 07:19 PM
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Why not just connect one of the wires to the positive lead of his tester, and connect the negative lead of his tester to the chassis? If he's reading DC voltage, it should register (or light up). If he's on the negative terminal, it should do nothing. If this is inaccurate, I'm never changing another light bulb.
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post #29 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-15-2008, 08:14 PM
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Sorry I did not see this sooner tk. The meter you have there is a a/c votage meter. It will read continuity regardless of what terminal you have it on because it will read through light bulbs circuit boards ect. Your best option would be to get a 12 v dc meter from a hardware store for about $10 or so. Then you can get a reading of which one has 12 volts going to it. If you wire it backwards you will have the hot and nuetral reversed on the 120 volt side of the inverter. If they bonded the ground on the outlet to the nuetral there is a good chance you are going to let the smoke out of it. Once the smoke is let out they do not work so well anymore. Some of the higher quality inverters have overload protection that will shut off power if the current is too high, but I don't think I would risk it. I would get a 12 volt dc meter or run new wires myself. Let me know if you need anything else.

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post #30 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-15-2008, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dope View Post
TK, if you connect a bulb to your gound, then it will only light when you find a positive lead off the battery. With accessories, the trick is usually to find the lead which is switched to the first position of your ignition switch. Make sure you have an in-line fuse as well.
^^^^^This will also work, don't forget the fuse and use the meter you have to check the bulb and make sure it is good.

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