Oil Pressure(automobile content warning) - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-02-2008, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
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Oil Pressure(automobile content warning)

So, I've got this beater 1984 245 gas-powered volvo wagon to drive the few weeks my car is in the shop for a head rebuild, and I'm curious as to what 'normal' oil pressure is?

On the 240D, the gauge swung wildly-- in-line with engine speed-- and it would sit a tick above or below 15psi at warm idle, peg at the top with any increase in engine speed.

This car hot idles at about the same oil pressure(checked by the 1984 dash gauge-- above the red mark, about 1bar) but in OD on the highway, it'll sit at 2-3bar, and the oilcan light flickers. I'm thinking that pressures between 15-60psi for an old car with 229k miles is great, and that it's just a bit of broken insulation making the light flicker, but wanted to ask youall what you thought.

I'm drive it anyway, so we'll see eventually... it'd just be nice to drive the car to the junker under it's own power when I'm done using it!

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-02-2008, 12:30 PM
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As long as you check the oil and it is full at the dipstick I would assume you have a sending unit that is going blinkie. With 200K+ it could be the sending unit, the wiring harness to the sending unit or the oil pump but unless you hear valves making a racket after the car has warmed up [more a sign of oil pump], you should be good.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-02-2008, 03:22 PM
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There might be more/better feedback on the General MB forum here...

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-02-2008, 03:30 PM
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As long as you check the oil and it is full at the dipstick I would assume you have a sending unit that is going blinkie. With 200K+ it could be the sending unit, the wiring harness to the sending unit or the oil pump but unless you hear valves making a racket after the car has warmed up [more a sign of oil pump], you should be good.
McB's suggestions are all spot-on, but I think that era Volvo uses solid lifters (w/adjustment shims), so the valves won't give you any audible indication that oil pressure has been diminished.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-02-2008, 03:57 PM
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You may have two sending units, one for the gauge and one for the lamp. If this is the case, I would check the lamp sender for leaking oil. They often leak oil (and show low pressure) when they go bad.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-02-2008, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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Hey, thanks ya'll!

It's got to be the sender, i've now driven it 300 miles(on $35.00- not bad!) and it'd have made some noise or indication something were wrong by now. The gauge is more accurate than the lightbulb, always. It cold idles at 4bar, warm idles(and when coasting with the clutch in) at 1bar-- logic tells me that's fine.

Now, how big can the tires be? I wanna get it muddy this summer. Alabama mud will re-dye the carpets their original color=)

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-02-2008, 10:54 PM
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Sounds like you are over the suspicion of something bad going on. But, if you are still uneasy, put a hand held gauge in the sensor location. Not sure if Autozone will lend you a tool like that. My son borrowed the high school's auto shop set up for his car. Turned out it was a huge mess on his car and he virtually rebuilt the engine - the sensor sender was reading correctly. But the hand held item answered the question. Jim
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-03-2008, 04:53 AM
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Turned out it was a huge mess on his car and he virtually rebuilt the engine - Jim
Do you have a link for downloading that virtual engine rebuilder? Sounds like fun.

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-03-2008, 07:58 AM
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Do you have a link for downloading that virtual engine rebuilder? Sounds like fun.
"Virtually rebuilt the engine" was intended to mean he rebuilt the head, changed the connecting rod bearings, a bunch of camshaft drive chain parts, the oil pump and a few other miscellaneous parts using the virtual experience he gained from connecting with a guy in Sweden who knows his car inside and out. Here is a thread from last summer on the subject:

1986 190E 2.3-16 Chain Guide Rail Replacement - ShopForum

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-03-2008, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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it's just a beater, nothing to worry about beyond that it continues beating about for a month more. I'll post up a YouTube or something if ya want to see. It's an adventure every time you drive somewhere, and it's a sweet, sweet victory when you reach that destination!

To the untrained eye, these things look like a w123... To someone that's owned a w123... They're execrable. Dreadful little loose-trim trucklike thing with low-rent plastics, vinyls and the cheapest carpets this side of OE 1973 VW felt.

Mechanically, it's a marvelously reliable thing, and it's got to be getting over 24mpg. The overdrive setup on the 4-Speed manual is crazy, and I don't ever care to learn how that electronic thing works, but it's a marvel just the same. That there's a house-type light switch wired to the transmission to turn on and off the overdrive button on the gearshift only strengthens my resolve to never look under this thing besides to pour something in it.

I want another Benz. Can a w203 beater be as reliable/efficient as this 240DL beater? It's got to be getting 25+mpg-- 10 dollars 2 days ago, and I've driven over 100 miles on it. Some has to be residual, but the needle was in the orange when I put the 10 in. Way better than an automatic.

BORK BORK BORK

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