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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-02-2006, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Racing Fuel

i will be entering my 2001 C240 in an autocross event this weekend, and i know a local gas station sells race fuel. i was wondering if anyone knows anything about using high octane fuels in cars like my own. i also worry that the fuel might be leaded, i will be sure to check before i buy, but i was wondering if anyone knows anything about leaded fuels.

thanks.

C. Deutschler

p.s. if anyone lives in the atlanta area and cares to join a fellow benz enthusiest, be sure to contact me

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-02-2006, 11:43 PM
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Member, jhodg5ck from the W126 forum might help you out, I pasted the following info: Blue Ridge Mercedes
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-03-2006, 09:56 AM
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I asked this same question in the R170 forum before I participated in a full track day - in short, high-octane gasolines aren't really necessary (especially for the small confines of an autocross event). Get as light as possible, and make sure your tire pressures are set optimally.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-03-2006, 11:14 AM
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Usually Sunoco has the highest octane Unleaded fuel available. If it is not available just just Shell 93. Also, only have a 1/3 of a tank or so. Get the junk out of the trunk for both weight [as Cigar says] but also it will get thrown around.

Check with Luke at Tire Rack and see what tire pressures he would suggest for the 240 for autoX to help balance and response and if taking the spare would help or hurt the balance of the car [my guess it would make it lighter but make the ass kick out easier]. You can compensate by lowering the air pressure in the back if you take the spare out but get his suggestion.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-03-2006, 03:43 PM
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The oil company had a issue regarding high octone fuel. As i was taking to a friend of mine who owns a gas station, it does not matter if you use a high octane fuel. Your car will run the same, so why use it if you can get the same octane your engine is build for.

Last month they raised the octane from 92 to 95 for premium super and 90 to 92 for regular un-leaded fuel. The 95 runs fine with my C280.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-03-2006, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Curacao
The oil company had a issue regarding high octone fuel. As i was taking to a friend of mine who owns a gas station, it does not matter if you use a high octane fuel. Your car will run the same, so why use it if you can get the same octane your engine is build for.

Last month they raised the octane from 92 to 95 for premium super and 90 to 92 for regular un-leaded fuel. The 95 runs fine with my C280.

Eddie
The engines run fine on the lesser octane [even down to 87-89] but do so by dialing back the timing on the car. The object of the highest possible unleaded octane is to allow the car's computer to not have to make adjustments for poor fuel.

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-04-2006, 10:43 AM
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Posted this yesterday to the original thread, then saw today the thread was reposted under racing. Anyway, here's my two cents...

Skip the "racing fuel". The benefit of the increased octane over normal premium 91 octane would be minimal at best. If the car was, say a '70 280SL, the racing fuel might help prevent knocking.

Having owned several British sportscars from the '60s and '70s, I found that a blend of regular 87 octane and 100 low lead aviation fuel worked well at eliminating knock and preserving the valves. (100LL av gas has more lead in it than the old leaded car gas used to have.)

What is your experience level at Autocrossing or SCCA Solo 1 or 2 events? I'm asking only because I don't want to insult you by telling you of things that you need to do before racing thru the pylons. I ran in Sports Car Club of America Solo events a number of years ago and won my class in the region for 5 years. This was in several different classes in different cars.

First, and probably the most important thing is to increase your tire pressures. The hard cornering of slalom racing can rip an underinflated tire from the rim. To get the ideal pressure amount needed, coat the sidewalls with liquid floor wax. Then after a few hard turns, take a look. The shine of the wax on the sidewall will be worn off where it comes in contact with the pavement. The ideal is not to go past the edge of the tread where it wraps over the side. I used to run from 40-50 lbs. depending on the car. Usually something like 46lbs. front and 40 rear.

The second thing is to take everything out of the trunk including the spare and jack. The idea here is to lighten the load plus not having stuff like your tools, CD collections and empty bottles and cans flying around back there.

Third, again for weight reasons, run with the absolute minimum of fuel on board. Just enough so that you won't run out or uncover the fuel pickup in corners.

There are several little things that can be done as well. Such as removing all the floor mats, again for less weight, positioning the passenger seat as far back as possible and reclining it and putting all the windows down. The last two are to lower the center of gravity as much as possible.

If allowed before the start, try to walk around the course to visualize the correct line needed around each corner. (late entry, early entry or transitional.) It also helps to keep from getting lost in a sea of orange traffic cones.

Good Luck! Have fun. Hope this helps you.

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Last edited by JFlyer; 10-04-2006 at 12:29 PM.
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