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Old 11-01-2009, 12:00 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Date registered: Oct 2005
Vehicle: ML500
Location: Staten Island, New York
Posts: 46
If you don't mind my asking, where did you get the parts, how much did they run, and were the parts OEM?
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Old 11-01-2009, 06:16 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike472 View Post
If you don't mind my asking, where did you get the parts, how much did they run, and were the parts OEM?
I used the link provided by lkchris above (http://www.getmercedesparts.com) - prices are available online & were well below my local dealer even after shipping. I was a bit hesitant to order from an unknown company and called them before placing online order. They were knowledgable and helpful. I placed the order with them after checking prices locally.

My local dealer quoted a price for each part, then gave me a "preferred customer discount cost" for each - since I was "such a good customer". When I checked the price at link above it appeared my "preferred customer discount price" was simply the MSRP, apparently without the local dealer's usual hefty additional markup. The online prices were enough lower to easily cover the shipping and still save money. Parts were OEM & shipping was quick - a couple days.

I did the oil, oil filter, engine air filters and the cabin air filters and checked the fluids while I was at it - saved a ton over the dealer quotes for these jobs. Took maybe 2 hours for front pads and rotors, another 2 hours for the rest. Now that I know how to do these jobs on this car it will probably take 1/2 that time if I do the jobs again. Got all parts except oil at the link above, oil at Autozone.

I see I mis-stated what jack I used - actually it was a smaller 1 1/2 ton floor jack, which is easily enough to raise a corner of the GL450. Wheel nuts are 17mm and much easier with a long handle bar than with supplied tool if the dealer or tire shop beat them on with an impact wrench. I believe the caliper bolts required a 9mm hex socket. Best practice and Mercedes recommendation is to replace the caliper bolts (~$4@), if you don't at a minimum use some blue Loctite when reinstalling. I used a thin pry bar to gently push the pistons back before removing the calipers to change pads and rotors, of course a large c-clamp or a real brake tool work if you have them. Note position of sensors so you can reinstall the same way - if your brake light is on you will need new sensors. Of course, brakes are important equipment that should only be worked on by experienced mechanics...

Good luck!

Last edited by obsessed : 11-01-2009 at 06:21 AM.
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Old 11-03-2009, 08:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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May I ask what the mileage of the vehicle was when this was done?
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Old 11-04-2009, 05:03 AM   #14 (permalink)
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May I ask what the mileage of the vehicle was when this was done?
This was second front pad and rotor change, we have gotten a bit more than 25k miles per set of front pads and rotors. Can vary a lot depending on how aggressively you use brakes, on my track car I get less than 2k miles per set...
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Old 11-08-2009, 09:30 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Date registered: Oct 2005
Vehicle: ML500
Location: Staten Island, New York
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Where did you end up getting the parts from? How much did everything run you? I am getting a GL, but my 06 ML500 will be needing brakes soon. The factory rotors are painted in the center so they dont rust and the metal in the rotors should have a certain hardness. Some aftermarket rotors are pretty good such as Centric. I have used these in my BMW's with good results. I would figure the caliper bolts to be dealer items.
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Old 11-08-2009, 09:32 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Question

sorry, didnt realize I already asked this question
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Old 11-10-2009, 11:04 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Wow--my GL has over 73,000 miles on it and I haven't ever had any brake work done.
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Old 11-10-2009, 11:10 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Wow--my GL has over 73,000 miles on it and I haven't ever had any brake work done.
Your wife had it done while you were out of town. LOL
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