M104 injection system troubleshooting, ASR - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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M104 injection system troubleshooting, ASR

So Thanks for the forum! Seeing lots of great tips here..

Ive had two E320 Mercedes, one 94 sedan and now a 95 wagon with 200K but sounds very tight..Just got the bugs out of the transmission and cured a bad smoking issue which was the vacuum modulator valve leaking into the intake manifold! It needed a head gasket so I pulled the head and had it overhauled..badly needed but the bottom end was beautiful..still had the crosshatch and using NO oil..And got the AC working perfectly complete with cooling fans cycling on beautifully..

THEN I had an issue with the injection system just dropping out..Starts great, zoom to 1200 rpm then drops to 1100 and when it settles down to the nice 650 rpm..instead of picking up the formerly nice idle it just dies with a hum from the fuel pump showing its still powered..

Ive checked everything and rechecked..changed the MAF and ECT sensor and was about to pull the throttle position sensor and ...also checked the purge valve and the EGR valve by blocking the tube to eliminate vacuum leaks..Removed the ETA and had a look inside--beautiful! and has all the upgraded wiring and the ETA is from 04-09, german OEM..from the previous owner..And I get codes for EVERYTHING..Pin 14 DTC is saying the CC/ICU is bad and codes for a dozen issues..starter lockout and saftey switches..and wondering if I could have degraded wiring to the transmission causing safety shut down..

The car starts an

Love the car and its 100% except for this issue and Id love any tips from all the pros!

I mostly read posts and never comment, hope I did this right.. runs nicely about 0ne minute from cold, then starts and runs only seconds..then repeats after its cold again..

Its been suggested the ETA coil which heats up is opening and killing the throttle by shorting it out at the potentiometer..
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-19-2016, 02:55 AM
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Refer to this, in particular "complaint related diagnostic chart" and "transition failure when warm". --> STAR TekInfo
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-19-2016, 03:48 AM
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You can bridge the fuel relay to run all the time . If you do this ,then you must remove the relay bridge wire from it , after you find the problem is the relay .If after its bridged it runs, then it will prove the relay is shot.. If you dont remove the relay after switching off it will continue to feed fuel in to the injection system and flood out the engine . It looks like fuel problem to me ,but yoiu never know . You need to find out which wires you bridge .I will look and come back to you. On my engine m103 its pin 7 and 8 you bridge on thev relay,not sure about yours.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-19-2016, 04:01 AM
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Thats right information 7 and 8 .
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-19-2016, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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where am I replying??

this system...There is no reply button on each comment and I have no idea where this will show up! As I say Im new here..

Thanks Dr X and..the fuel pump relay guy..I have Alldata and find the troubleshooting options helpful but...still cannot pinpoint a component failure..ETA, Egas module or CC/CIS...??? or...not W/O a diagnostic computer..not terribly impresssed with Alldata BTW..I found the Vacuum modulator valve in a transmission manual..It was not included at all in the Alldata information. Seems like a serious oversight to me..Maybe I missed it..

Not a bad FP relay..and it could possibly be low fuel pressure which may be either a weak pump or the pressure regulator..I know BC one can hear the buzz..I did suspect the OVP relay which is a typical culprit and replaced it, and the idle steadied out substantially..Then totally failed as described..

A very good local mech will check it out soon and he has the star diagnostic system..(Im choosing not to subscribe given I have alldata and...)
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2016, 01:00 PM
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first you will get a better response if you go to the W124 forum rather than general Mercedes - the 94/95 E320 came equipped with better diagnostics in the sense that you do not need a reader - just need to count how many times the red led light flashes to determine fault codes - also if you have changed the engine wire harness - you STILL need to change the lower wire harness (positive battery terminal cable to starter). Also check the egas module in the passenger footwell - enter the p/n on eBay search to find one - I have one - they are like $1,500 at the dealer - so don't even bother calling them - if the part number matches you can use a replacement because they are either made for models with ASR or non-ASR E320 models.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2016, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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okay must be brief..the issue was fuel pressure related and seemed to be a bad pump but merely cleaning the check vavle in the #1 pump corrected the issue...

this place is great but seems a haven for people selling subscriptions and parts..

what we really need is shared expertise..I paid "just answer's" excellent Marty and he suggested vacuum leak checking but didnt mention the EGR valve or purge valve as a source of leak..

what solved it was spraying start fluid in the intake and seeing the motor would run continuously making it likely the fuel pressure was the issue..
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2016, 06:33 PM
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You have no idea where to even post your problem on this forum - but a mere 3 posts you start offending members that are trying to help you diagnose your Mercedes without actually seeing it - and telling you they have a part in the event that you might need it - you need to rethink your approach if you want to make friends and influence people.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2016, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eaglefeather View Post
this place is great but seems a haven for people selling subscriptions and parts..

what we really need is shared expertise..
Haven for subscription and parts?

Are we even talking about the same forum?

--1998 MB E300TD 285k
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-23-2016, 04:53 AM
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Since you did the head gasket, is the 3 or 4 pin coolant temperature sensor harness pressed down all the way? Back corner of engine respectively.

Also, have you inspected the OVP?

On another note, I too suffered the dreaded modulator scenario you experienced via transmission fluid getting sucked into cylinder 6 of engine via the vacuum line. Not sure how long you drove, but my catalytic converter honeycomb monolith melted damn near closed from the transmission fluid being flowed through exhaust system, plus all O2 sensors were FUBAR. #6 cylinder rings, all 3 oil control rings were stuck from transmission fluid entering combustion chamber. Soaked the cylinder with an acetone and transmission fluid cocktail and luckily they released after a day.

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http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c328/nutz4benz/W123/6C3A9CA5-EDFF-4834-8125-34B70B20A676_zpsiyesrawz.jpg
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