If I can't fit a torque wrench on a bolt or nut, I do without. Whenever I can use a torque wrench, I do so. And I ship my torque wrenches off for calibration every two years (it is once a year where I work).
Torque equates to bolt or stud stretch. You want to keep the metal in the elastic range and not the deformation range. And you have to remember that oil or anti-seize means you either need to reduce the torque or you need to go with the manufacturer's torque recommendations. And rusty bolts/nuts require additional torque to obtain the proper bolt stretch.
My very first torque wrench, bought when I was only a teenager, failed the calibration check 30 years later (by 20%)
I gave it a decent disposal.
Would you care if the guy assembling the jet engine on your flight to vacation didn't use a torque wrench and just "winged it"?
Having said the above, experience will allow one to closely judge the proper torque. But, if you allow someone inexperienced to work on your engine, you may hear them say, "This bolt got really tight but now it just spins freely. Is it supposed to do that?" Experience comes with a cost. Are you willing to pay it?