Older car, switch from conventional to synthetic oil? - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-03-2013, 10:15 AM
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5 quart of 5l ?
Still excellent price regardless. I remember paying more for a gallon of Shell Rotella.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-03-2013, 02:42 PM
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Waly World sells 5 quart bottles of the Mobil One European 0w40 not liters, but it is still and excellent deal in markets they sell it in.
We do not have it available here from Wal Mart
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-03-2013, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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Sure is. 5 quart bottles, grabbed the last 2 on the shelf.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-26-2013, 03:35 PM
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The cleaning effects of synthetics depend on how well the engine was cared for. Classic engines had wider tolerances and old hoses can find themselves scoured of the crud that was keeping them from weeping. Can you guess what the proper solution to this issue is? That is right! Change the old crap rubber out and the leaks go away! The fresh oil did not make a leak, it highlighted damage you were living with.

I moved my 1972 220D off dino to Mobil 1. The effects were profound. I found all the hoses and gaskets that had not been taken care of in decades. The fuel usage dropped while smoke and noise were reduced over a few thousand miles. It took almost 8k on the road to fully remove the shite in the engine, but the oil pressure returned to spec, engine temps dropped, and highway speeds increased from an anemic 62mph to being able to hit redline at 84.5mph over a number of miles.

First change out was at 1500 miles, next went a full 5k, third was also at 5k.

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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-27-2013, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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I went ahead and made the switch to synthetic. 1000 miles later not a drop of oil anywhere. So yes, I agree that any leak is due to the "gunk" that is masking the problem you already have.
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-29-2013, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjc03001 View Post
I went ahead and made the switch to synthetic. 1000 miles later not a drop of oil anywhere. So yes, I agree that any leak is due to the "gunk" that is masking the problem you already have.
Good for you. Did you finally use Mobile One 0w40? Now after 1000 miles, any improvements observed?
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-29-2013, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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Yes 0W 40, awesome stuff. I do actually notice the car runs a bit smoother.
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-01-2013, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Nfsjunkie91 View Post
It is important to pay attention to the last number. A 5W-30 oil is thinner at operating temperature than a 0W-40 oil. One would want to use a xxW40 oil in warm temperatures to protect against oil thinning too much if the engine gets hot, whereas one would want to use a xxW-30 oil in cold temperatures to as it would not be as thick as a xxW-40 oil around operating temperature. This is especially true as oil temps tend to be cooler in the winter due to lower ambient temperatures.
[snip].
"...one would want to use a xxW-30 oil in cold temperatures to as it would not be as thick as a xxW-40 oil around operating temperature. This is especially true as oil temps tend to be cooler in the winter due to lower ambient temperatures."

Sorta right and sorta wrong. In the Winter you might need a lower first number. For instance you might want to go from a 15W40 to a 0W40. However, the second number should not change.

Why? Because your engine is going to warm up to 190F regardless of whether the air temperature is 20F or 80F. So keeping the same upper number is important. If you need the '...W40' on a normal Summer day, you need it on a normal Winter day.
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-01-2013, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redghost View Post
The cleaning effects of synthetics depend on how well the engine was cared for. Classic engines had wider tolerances and old hoses can find themselves scoured of the crud that was keeping them from weeping. Can you guess what the proper solution to this issue is? That is right! Change the old crap rubber out and the leaks go away! The fresh oil did not make a leak, it highlighted damage you were living with.

I moved my 1972 220D off dino to Mobil 1. The effects were profound. I found all the hoses and gaskets that had not been taken care of in decades. The fuel usage dropped while smoke and noise were reduced over a few thousand miles. It took almost 8k on the road to fully remove the shite in the engine, but the oil pressure returned to spec, engine temps dropped, and highway speeds increased from an anemic 62mph to being able to hit redline at 84.5mph over a number of miles.

First change out was at 1500 miles, next went a full 5k, third was also at 5k.
As a 36 year five bay commercial garage owner, the above post in a nutshell is exactly my experience. I switch most everyone who wants to save time and money from conventional oil to synthetic. There are some neglected cars I may not suggest it for, but only because the 'fix' may not be worth the change. Those owners may not want to spend the money on repairs which will now more obviously be needed.

It is precisely the detergent qualities, toughness, and reliable viscosity of synthetics which make them so good for a well kept engine, but may make them a poor choice for a neglected, carbon fouled, greasy hunk of machinery.

As redghost said, the synthetic didn't make the engine bad, it just showed you how bad it was.
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