Mercedes E300 1999 Best value 38pin Diagnostic and reset tool? - Mercedes-Benz Forum

 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 03:14 AM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Aug 2013
Vehicle: Mercedes E class Diesel Turbo 1999
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Mercedes E300 1999 Best value 38pin Diagnostic and reset tool?

Can anyone help with this? 1999 Mercedes E class.

I'm so frustrated with my car.

Problem number 1.

So far, I have tried two SRS modules and then used a draper airbag reset tool and another chinese reset tool to try and reset my passenger airbag light and SRS light................both remain on.

I'm hoping that I'm plugging the current reset tool into the right place, after a search pretty much every orifice of the car, the only connection that I can find is a 38 pin connector in the engine fusebox compartment so I'm assuming that this is the right place to plug in.

So now I'm trying to find a cheap diagnostic and reset tool to try and solve this problem.

Can anybody suggest a tool that can perform diagnostics and reset that doesn't cost 400 euros.

I thought that it was worth mentioning my next problem in the same post in case someone can solve this one as well.

Problem number 2.

I have new tyres that need to be fitted and guess what my wheels won't come off. So far I have tried WD-40 and 3in1 + bouncing on the wheel spanner trying to loosen up the seized bolts, hitting the wheel spanner with a hammer and have tried an impact wrench and so far managed to break three bolts and undo three bolts and been on this project for the past two weeks.

To top it off I haven't been able to use the key to undo the locking wheel nut as this was already damaged. I have visited various garages and the latest idea is to use a blow torch to heat up the bolts. The questions that I have on this problem are:

Is heating the bolts a good idea as the wheels are alloy and the bolts are steel.

Does anyone know where I might be able to find a replacement key or have any ideas on how to get them off? The reason I ask is because the garage says that it's not possible to drill them.

Finally, I would like to thank the garage in the UK that sold me the vehicle in July of last year for rotating the back tyres to the front and for doing an astounding job of chewing up the locking nut key and for over torque-ing the wheel bolts. I cannot share my appreciation for their tenacity in endangering me, my wife and two children by leaving us in a position that if we had suffered a flat tyre we could confidently rest in the knowledge of knowing that it would not be possible to change the punctured tyre!

I would recommend that anyone buying a car should always try and undo one wheel bolt on each tyre using the spanner in the boot before driving off!
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 05:03 AM
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Date registered: Jul 2005
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I am sorry you are going through this nightmare.

Do not let them put a torch on the wheels. It will burn the clear coat and paint.
It will also stress the alloy. Lug bolts can be drilled and it you will need new brake rotors after it is done, but that is a lot cheaper than buying or refinishing new wheels.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 07:10 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Noodles, Thanks for the reply. So that I buy the right parts, Can I just clarify that brake rotors is an american expression that means brake disc in english?
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 07:24 AM
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Yes the disc = rotor as far English terminology.

One more note, for the really stubborn locking lugs, we just use an air chisel and break them apart. We never tried it on stuck luges, but it would probably work for those also.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 10:14 AM
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I'm quite sure the problem you are having is that rust has locked the lug bolt in the hub, and the brake disk is not really involved. Some have had success by hammering on the lug to loosen the rust so an impact wrench can turn the lug. Use a short rod held over the lug so you can hammer on it with force, and don't hold it in your fingers, obviously.
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