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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-14-2013, 06:06 AM Thread Starter
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remote key help

I'm a little confused as to what you mean but I will do my best to explain my key issue. The key in particular that I have been inquiring about in the forum, recently decided to not open doors or turn ignition on, and is my main key which contains replaceable batteries, basically it just stopped working completely. The only key I have to use now. and am currently using, is what was kept as my spare key. From what I can see, this key does not have the facility for the batteries to be changed. The spare key unlocks the doors, locks the doors and the boot and is used in the ignition.

I was chasing another key because with only one working key I am worried if I lose it, then I will not be able to get into the car or to drive it. Also, obviously if the batteries run-out the key will be useless.

Hope that explains better.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-14-2013, 06:09 AM Thread Starter
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remote key help

Sorry I started off replying to another thread from another member with a question re my key and somehow it replied to yours. Thank you for your ideas.
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-17-2013, 02:11 AM Thread Starter
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remote key help

Problem is faulty remote/key will not open either doors or turn in ignition. Obviously I will continue to use spare key, but it has a concern for me as it does not have a hook for it to attach to a keyring so you tend to put it in a pocket or on the desk etc. Because of that there's a big chance of losing it. Seems ridiculous when to replace one key it costs $500.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-17-2013, 09:43 AM
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I bought new chrome key for $180 in California, so blame your government for markup.
Still if the car works with other key, the mysterious failure of both - ignition chip and door remote at the same time can't be easy explain.
Did you try to leave the non working key in the ignition for long time?
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-18-2013, 01:15 AM
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... but it has a concern for me as it does not have a hook for it to attach to a keyring so you tend to put it in a pocket or on the desk etc. Because of that there's a big chance of losing it.
If you can't resynch your main key, remove the metal key blade and insert it into the side of the spare key. Then you should be able to attach a keyring.

Last edited by DrX; 01-21-2013 at 07:07 PM.
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-20-2013, 04:57 AM Thread Starter
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remote key help

spare key does not have place for removable key infrared only.
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-20-2013, 08:53 AM
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well, think about this. The key costs 500. Your vehicle is worth a whole lot more. To me, the value of my key is worth the cost of my car. I would not risk my vehicle being stolen for 500 if it will cost me more to replace my car. Your vehicle is equipped with DAS2 anti-theft system. Without a working key, there will be no Drive Authorization and will not enable engine start. the keys use a certain amount of rolling codes. If i recall, it is around 200,000 ignition cycles. once u have used them all, the key is no longer usable. You can take it to your local MB dealer to see what keys have been used. With DAS2, there are only 8 key tracks, which means you can only use 8 keys for the vehicle. You are normally given 2, so that would be key 2 and 3. Key 1 looks like a mickey mouse key and has no IR for keyless entry. If key 2 is no longer usable, the replacement key will use key track 4 and now you have another 200,000 keycycle to use with your vehicle. They key will already come programmed from MB. The only thing to do at the dealer will be relearning the IR for your keyless entry, as this cannot be done manually (not that i know).
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 05:02 AM Thread Starter
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remote key help

Fair enough and good reply. Very interesting information though, would never have thought that was how it all worked. I had decided to order a new key now anyway after trying the various ideas to get the main key working again. Odometer sits over 300,000, the car is very tired so I am looking at buying another car in the next 6 months, but peace of mind in buying another key to get me through till then.

Thanks for replying
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by tiredmerc View Post
The only key I have to use now. and am currently using, is what was kept as my spare key. From what I can see, this key does not have the facility for the batteries to be changed. ... Also, obviously if the batteries run-out the key will be useless.
See the manual page I added to post #16. Is that the same as yours? If you read it, there are no batteries inside your spare key. You can stop worrying about it losing power.

Your spare key gets power from an induction coil around the ignition switch keyhole. This was mentioned in an earlier post. Inside the key is another coil that generates the power to allow the key to communicate with the car.

Remove the batteries from your main key. It is not difficult to slide out the circuit board that contains all the key's innards. If the coil has become detached from the circuit board, you can have it fixed with a tiny bit of solder for a lot less than $500.

Otherwise you can safely use the spare for another 6 months until you sell it, or whenever.
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 09:31 PM
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I will correct myself. I just realized your vehicle is a 1998 and if it has an infrared smart key, then you have DAS3, not DAS2. They work pretty much the same, only difference is the key and the ignition switch. More than likely, the rolling codes have finished with your key. Now the cool part about DAS3, there are a total of 24 keys available (1 main key and 2 replacements per key track= 3 keys per track x 8 keytracks=24 keys). The remote should come already programmed and will have keyless entry without having the dealer program the infrared.

On another note, why do you say "the car is very tired"??? is it because of the milage? Do you feel the car sluggish?? I have repaired many MB engines (especially M112, M113, and M272 engines). You probably have the M113 engine on your vehicle. In spite of high milage, they do not show the same type of wear that "American" cars have at this milage. Check the compression and possibly do an electrical tune-up and a fuel injection service. Check that your fuel pressure is at 3.7 to 4.2 bar of pressure. Your engine compression should be around 175-200 psi. I replaced the engine on my friend's ML (1998 ML320 M112 V6 overheated by his son). the replacement engine had 120k miles. Compression on that engine was 195-205 psi. And when it comes to maintenance, use Mobil 1 Formula M syntetic 5w40. You can get it at your dealer and it meets MB spec sheet for lubricants 229.5 (highest grade) and use original fleece oil filter. Cheers!
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