C class aftermarket wheels - Page 3 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #21 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 11:18 AM
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can you post a pic of your vehicle? I would like to see the wheels and maybe help you find the appropriate wheels for your W204 C-Class. Also, wheels from previous generation C-class will not work, nor from C209 CLK class. Different offsets and also the wheel bolts for those cars are smaller in diameter than the ones on your vehicle. So your wheel bolts will not fit thru those wheels. Another thing to take into consideration is the length of the bolts. If they are too long, you can mess up the parking brake assembly in the rear wheels (seen it done too many times). That is why buying OEM wheels comes into advantage.
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post #22 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenj57 View Post
I bought a 2000 CLK 430 AMG and it has 18" rims with 40 tires, looks good but have to slow down a lot for bumps like railroad tracks, ride is okay though normally, I don't know if that is stcok size or not, just came that way, when I buy new I may go to a 17 with a 45 tire

kenj57, send me a PM with your VIN number. I can help you find the appropriate wheels and even get the part numbers for the original wheels that where installed in your vehicle.
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post #23 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 10:21 PM
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Mercedes wheels - fit issues

I cam upon this thread by accident. I found the whole discussion rather a confusing/rambling dialogue. Here are some basic rules on shopping for replacement wheels for your Mercedes. 1). Almost all wheels built for Mercedes look very much alike in basic design and it looks like they are generally interchangeable - BEWARE - they are not. 2). Wheel offset - this. Is a concept that is generally not understood and often people try to explain it and they have it all wrong. Look the subject up on Google and see for yourself how complicated this is. Best to stick with what the Mercedes engineers had in mind for your model. Let me give you a simple example - I have two all original 1997 Mercedes - 97 SL320 & 97 CL500. Both came with 16" Mercedes alluminum wheels when built. To look at them you would jump to the conclusion that they are interchangeable - WRONG! Almost everything is different - wheel width - wheel offset - lug bolt length - lug bolt diameter. Even if yu could bolt them up (which you can't) they wouldn't fit since the offset is completely different. All Mercedes wheels are stamped on the back of the wheels with the MB part number - the wheel width - wheel diameter - and the ET (German for offset) - the offset is shown as a number in mm. The first few digits in the part number will tell you the model Mercedes the wheels were designed to fit - best not to stray too far afield.
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post #24 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-31-2012, 08:22 AM
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Again, Adsit and Tire Rack can give you correct fitting wheels. The Adsit replicas on both my 73 and 76 SLs fit perfectly and the offset set them out maybe an inch from stock and look better. The same wheels off of both also fit 80s SEs (a friend bought my OEMs for his sedans). I did note on the 76, I did have to use shorter lugs to avoid the parking brakes. Adsit supplied the correct lugs for my car, but I tried to originally use the original ones on my 76 450SL. The replacements worked fine. The slighter wider offset makes the car drive and handle better than the OEM flat face wheels and they look better not buried back inside the wheel well so far.
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post #25 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-31-2012, 08:38 AM
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Adsit wheels

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1976450sl View Post
Again, Adsit and Tire Rack can give you correct fitting wheels. The Adsit replicas on both my 73 and 76 SLs fit perfectly and the offset set them out maybe an inch from stock and look better. The same wheels off of both also fit 80s SEs (a friend bought my OEMs for his sedans). I did note on the 76, I did have to use shorter lugs to avoid the parking brakes. Adsit supplied the correct lugs for my car, but I tried to originally use the original ones on my 76 450SL. The replacements worked fine. The slighter wider offset makes the car drive and handle better than the OEM flat face wheels and they look better not buried back inside the wheel well so far.
I tried to research wheels specs (offset - etc) with Adsit wheels since their prices are so cheap. Amazon offers them a what appears to be amazing prices. I was unable to get anyone who represents Adsit to tell me what the offset specs were. It is my understanding that these wheels are made in China. Keep in mind - wider offset is not necessarily a good thing. In some case this will required modifications to your wheel wells and can damage your cars suspension and put additional load on your wheel bearings. The Mercedes engineers had a plan and spent a great deal of time and money perfecting it.
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post #26 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-31-2012, 01:59 PM
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As a restoration/ custom auto shop, ive never had any problem with either of them supplying a wrong or ill fitting wheel. They may very well be Chinese reproductions. I did a custom build on a Ferrari 308 widening the rear quarter panels and special ordered wheels that were 4" deeper offset to bring the lips out to the fender lip. I was told the same thing from mechanics about bearings and excess wear. I drove that car for over 100,000 miles with no issues at all. I did the exact same thing on a Countach...custom 4" offset past OEM spec with same results. Both cars cornered on rails. All the wheels Ive bought from both have run as true as OEM. Theres no doubt that Mercedes wheels are designed to work well with their own product. Some people are just not inclined to spend $3000+ for a set of daily driver wheels. Then again, some will spend $300+ for a detail job. On my SLs, you cannot visually tell they are any different, and they perform the same and look better than the stock wheels. The only difference is they dont have MB stampings in the castings. Thats a $500 each OEM wheel, as opposed to a $500 set of 4. If they look identical and are just as true at 140 mph, why would you pay more except just to keep a car all OEM equipped. Were just talking personal opinions here.
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post #27 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-31-2012, 02:09 PM
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Not hung up on OEM

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1976450sl View Post
As a restoration/ custom auto shop, ive never had any problem with either of them supplying a wrong or ill fitting wheel. They may very well be Chinese reproductions. I did a custom build on a Ferrari 308 widening the rear quarter panels and special ordered wheels that were 4" deeper offset to bring the lips out to the fender lip. I was told the same thing from mechanics about bearings and excess wear. I drove that car for over 100,000 miles with no issues at all. I did the exact same thing on a Countach...custom 4" offset past OEM spec with same results. Both cars cornered on rails. All the wheels Ive bought from both have run as true as OEM. Theres no doubt that Mercedes wheels are designed to work well with their own product. Some people are just not inclined to spend $3000+ for a set of daily driver wheels. Then again, some will spend $300+ for a detail job. On my SLs, you cannot visually tell they are any different, and they perform the same and look better than the stock wheels. The only difference is they dont have MB stampings in the castings. Thats a $500 each OEM wheel, as opposed to a $500 set of 4. If they look identical and are just as true at 140 mph, why would you pay more except just to keep a car all OEM equipped. Were just talking personal opinions here.
Let me clarify - I am not hung up on Original Mercedes wheels. I am just pointing out to the uninitiated that wheel swaps on Mercedes can be more complicated than it looks and most people are well advised to stick within original factory specs. We haven't even addressed the whole issue of staggered wheels/tires. If you get this too far off the MB computer system will rebel. All I am saying is that this is a complicated issue and you better know what you are dealing with before you jump n.
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post #28 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-31-2012, 02:56 PM
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I understand what your saying. Its really not all that complicated. As long as you use the 'plus' system to make your overall tire size reasonably close to OEM, you wont have any computer problems at all. Ive been doing custom jobs with non OEM wheels for 45 years. Simply put if you use a larger diameter rim, and use the correct size tire to keep the overall diameter close to the same, your car dont know the difference. Do that and if the wheel bolts on and dont stick out past the fender and clears the brake calipers, its all good. Thats why if you up the wheel diameter, you have to decrease the tires sidewall height to keep it the same overall. If you have a 14" rim and the tire has a 7" high sidewall, your over all diameter will be 28". Thats all your computer needs to know. So if you put on a 17" rim, you need to have a tire sidewall of 5.5" to equal the same thing. You could even have 22" wheels with a 3" sidewall and also be equal to the computer. All have the same overall diameter which is all the car needs to know. Staying within an inch or so of OEM offset will have a very minor effect on alignment. Over that and you may get some extra tire scrub on a tight turn than stock...probably something like 5% more wear. All this of course is assuming both your front and rear wheels are same. Like you say, different front to rear tires/wheels are a different story and other factors have to figure in. You can almost always add an inch to the outside and inside without any effect other than the wider tire gives more grip. ie/ in most cases you can go from a stock 6" width rim up to an 8" rim, and suspension wont have any ill effects. Stock front with wider than stock rear rims will create understeer/push, and a wider front and stock rears will create oversteer/ loose (tend to spin). If you go wider, you need to widen all 4 by same to keep in balance as designed stock. Same with offset, unless you correct that with new (non OEM) alignment specs. Im just posting so people arent scared of trying out different or aftermarket rims.

My 73 and 76 both handled better than the OEM wheels did because the tire sidewall was lower and didnt squirm as much, and the extra few inches of track reduced body roll. Both still had factory spec 4 wheel alignments.
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post #29 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 10:15 PM
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we may be able to pull off a lot more with older cars than with new vehicles. Knowing the newer MB product, there are a lot of sensors involved, especially when it comes to Electronic Stability Program. My 87 560SL with 19" does drive very different than with the original 15" wheels. Although there might be replica wheels, if you are carefull, they will hold up. I am always cautious with my wheels on any car. But with most people, I have seen more cracked wheels with replica "MB" "AMG" wheels than with OEM. OEM wheel will bend out a good amount before they crack. I have yet to see a stress fracture on an OEM Mercedes wheel. I have seen many stress fractured wheels and they have been reproduction wheels. I see these cars everyday and have been for a long time. You get a better deal with Amazon or Ebay on the amount you will pay for a set of wheels, but you are really compromising quality. Unless your roads are in really good shape, then it is a good purchase, that is if they fit well. Othewise, stick with OEM wheels. They hold out better when it comes to abuse. I have only seen one set of AMG wheels break, but the impact was so hard on the wheels that the caliper jammed the wheel and split the wheel down the middle part of the rim. And I have seen some pretty bad wheels with major bends, but no cracks under the stress they have suffered. But for that killer look, you have to work hard to find what will fit and it will take some good measuring. My AMG wheels are OEM wheels off a CLS55 AMG Kompressor. Now, I got lucky they fit with no problem on my 560. On my buddy's 380SL, these wheels did not fit well in the front. They would rub on the front lower spoiler while turning.
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post #30 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 08:42 AM
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Actually, there are problems with factory Mercedes, BMW and Jaguar alloy wheels. Their alloy is very susceptible to brake dust damage. You see it every day on those brands in particular where especially the front (since they do the majority of the braking) are nearly black with discoloration and are hard to restore without an acid bath. The alloy material is also very porous and Ive run into many of those 3 brands that constantly leak air 'thru' the wheel itself. They also are prone to deterioration at the tire bead where they also frequently leak. The fix is usually removing the tires, cleaning the inside and bead area well and coating it with a paint type sealant. Ive had some so bad, they required a tube. Goodyear makes a tubeless tire radial tube that eliminates that problem.

As far as sensors, even in a new 2013, the only data from the wheel thats used in the engine, transmission, other driveline management and the stability, ride and traction controls is the tire diameter/circumference. The only other sensors regarding the wheels is the tire pressure sensor and brake pad wear sensor that dont have anything to do with operation. As long as you dont change the overall tire/wheel combo measurement, nothing on the car knows it. Anything else you change other than that has no more affect than changing the car color. Even if you do change the overall diameter (like say for smaller diameter for racing), there are alternative computer programs you can use to change settings on the engine and transmission to work with them.
I just keep going on this because some people are scared that their car is going to explode or something if you change to anything thats not OEM. I do know, especially with high end cars, a lot of people tend to like everything just as factory built it, just dont be afraid to personalize it if you do a little research first.
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