Everyone with P0410 code - read this first - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2012, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Everyone with P0410 code - read this first

My Car: 1998 c280 sport

Well, I have been dealing with P0410 code for over 6 months. Finally got it!!! So I have decided to share with everyone.

The the initial problem was the left diverter valve. Unfortunately by the time I got the engine light with p0410 code the engine head air passage way was completely clogged.

As a preventive maintenance I replaced both diverter valves and vacuum hoses. The mechanic wanted $1500 to pull the head and clear the passage.

Hmmm, I decided to call Villy, the mechanic from Great Neck NY, to find out is there any way to clear the air passage without taking the head out. Initially he was confirming that the only way to clean it was to remove the head but as the conversation continued he reveled following technique.

Purchase FRIZOL PENETRATING SOLVENT (4 Oz)
Let the engine cool
Remove both diverter valves (careful not to broke the round end)
Locate the holes underneath left/right diverter valves and pour in half of penetrating solvent in each hole.
If the air passage is clogged you will not be able to pour more that half bottle (2 oz).
Repeat the process every 12 hours for few days
Install diverter valves and start the car, preferable outdoor because of the smoke.
Drive the car for 15-20 miles.

if you are not successful the first time, repeat the process.
You may need to do this 3-4 times, but it will clear the air passage.
Once the air passage/s is/are clean purchase and poor in about 2-3 oz of Berryman B-12 Chemtool Carburetor, Fuel System and Injector Cleaner in each hole. Wait 3-4 hours and drive the car for 20-30 min.

It took me 2 weeks and 6 bottle of FRIZOL and a few oz of Berryman B-12. As a preventive maintenance I will do this once a year or maybe more often.

Also, be aware that the air pump starts when the engine is cold and will purge the air through the exhaust for about 50-60 sec. However the pump will run again for short time (~5 sec) once the engine reach working temperature (~80C). At that time, both bank1 and bank2 sensor 1 should read < 0.10v. In the morning the sensors are cold and in resistive mode (0.45v) until they are hot enough. Let the engine run until it reaches working temperature and jump start the pump. Use OBDII reader with live data and read both bank1 and bank2 sensor 1 while the pump is ON. Make sure you don't run the pump for longer than 1 min. Both bank1 and bank2 sensor 1 should read < 0.10v while the pump is ON and engine is in working temperature.


Also, once a year I will use B-12 Chemtool® Total Combustion System Cleaning Kit.

Hopefully this article and my experience will help someone, but please note that the advice contained in this article (post) is for information purposes only and I shall not be held responsible for any damage caused to your engine should this arise.
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Last edited by novafirst; 09-22-2012 at 03:03 PM.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2012, 11:48 AM
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Will try thanks!!!

"Insert witty quote here "
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2012, 03:18 PM
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Wow, shocking! Having pulled RHS head to clean the clog, it does seem this could work!
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-24-2012, 02:23 PM
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Great write-up, novafirst. 3 questions.

Did Villy advise you to hand-crank the engine before starting, to expel any fluid that may have entered the cylinders?

What grade of gasoline do you buy?Have you owned it since new?(There may be a relationship between octane number and unburned carbon deposition.)
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-24-2012, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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DrX,

Thank you for your response.

The penetrating solution is poured into head's air passage that leads to exhaust manifold, so I am not sure why would be necessary to hand-crank the engine before starting. I have not had the opportunity to see the head and to visually trace the channel so you may know something that I don't.

I always use 93 gasoline, but please understand in this case the reason for air passage clogged with carbon is not the gasoline. It is always due to a defective diverter valve, bad vacuum system, bad changeover valve... We tend to ignore and drive the vehicle while troubleshooting P0410. By the time we find the problem and replace the part/s it too late and head got clogged.

I feel that as a preventive maintenance we should all perform air passage cleanup using small amount of Berryman B-12 (2 oz). I also agree that good quality gasoline plays a great part of many problems.

Thanks
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-01-2012, 11:40 AM
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I am having this issue on my 98 C230 right now... I'll check the vacuum lines. But does anyone have a good diagram of the lines for my ride?

Also one thing I noticed today was the air pump kept turning on and off while at the stop sign. And my whole car rattles when the pump turns on. Is it just because it's drawing a lot of current and is this normal? Thanks for your help.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-01-2012, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingmack09 View Post
I am having this issue on my 98 C230 right now... I'll check the vacuum lines. But does anyone have a good diagram of the lines for my ride?

Also one thing I noticed today was the air pump kept turning on and off while at the stop sign. And my whole car rattles when the pump turns on. Is it just because it's drawing a lot of current and is this normal? Thanks for your help.
The air pump will act such way (kept turning on and off while at the stop sign) when the engine reaches working temperature (~80C) and the system runs the air flow test but the Oxygen sensor is not reading any change. Therfore, you could have vacuum line issue, defective diverter valve or changeover valve, or clogged head.

Under normal operation, the air pump starts when the engine is cold and will purge the air through the exhaust for about 50-60 sec. However the pump will run again for short time (~5 sec) once the engine reach working temperature (~80C). At that time, both bank1 sensor 1 should read < 0.10v. In the morning the sensors are cold and in resistive mode (0.45v) until they are hot enough. Let the engine run until it reaches working temperature and jump start the pump. Use OBDII reader with live data and read both bank1 and bank2 sensor 1 while the pump is ON.

Unfortunately, I don't have the diagram of the vacuum system.

I would remove the diverter valve while the engine is cold and start the car. You should feel strong air blowing out from diverter valve. If not, inspect the vacuum hose(s) and changeover valve.

If you are located in NYC, I will gladly help you.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-01-2012, 05:33 PM
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I found a diagram for my engine.
Engines 14 Emission Control

If I understand this correctly:
126 - is the diverter valve
Y32 - is the changeover valve?
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-02-2012, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingmack09 View Post
I found a diagram for my engine.
Engines 14 Emission Control

If I understand this correctly:
126 - is the diverter valve
Y32 - is the changeover valve?
Yes, it looks like it.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-20-2013, 07:18 AM
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Would this repair procedure apply to my w140 s420? Have the same blocked air pump and o2 problems and rough idle.
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