Stuck lugs - Mercedes-Benz Forum

 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-17-2011, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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Stuck lugs

Anyone come across siezed lugs? I have a 97 E320 that has a few of them. I'm pretty much just try to get them out every now and then. At one point just about all of them siezed. Now I believe only 4, one 3 wheels. I think it had do with the car sitting most of the winter while I drove my Jeeps. I rounded off one little bit ago and had to drill it down to the ball to get the wheel off and then vice grip the pin that was left off. Once I get them out I never seize them and put them back in and torque them to spec. I've replace some with the replacement lugs from autohuas too. They seem to run out of them from time to time. Some actually bent at the shaft. I hear its common on the early 210's. I don't know what other series and models used the same ones. They're the ones with have the shaft in the middle then a bolt head at the end and they're harden steel and kinda long.

I'm looking for recommendations or ideas. I don't want to heat them with a torch and risk deforming the whell. I thought about hitting them with the welder at the ends to heat just bolt. A friend did that with a torx bolt that he stripped and when he welded a bolt on the end of the head it loosened the bolt up and it came right out.

I've hear that there is a tool, almost like an easy out but like a deep socket that will reverse thread on to the shaft part if the head is broken off, just like an easy out, and when it bottoms out will cause the lug to back out or break at the bottom of the bowl thus allowing the wheel to come off. Once the wheel is off then you can vice grip the "pin" thats left.

Doug
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-17-2011, 10:32 PM
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The topic is pretty well covered in W210 section. I am still using the extended head bolts and having 2 sets of them I am not planning to spend money on the advised set with short heads. Like the stainless steel plates on the end as well.
Per my experience they get broken off mostly because lot of mechanics use bending force on L shaped wrenches to loosen them. I use impact wrench, or cross wrench that apply torque without bending force. Other option is find thick wall socket, that would fit into the hole and not bend the head while torquing it.
Takes some practice, but the bolts work well if not abused.

Last edited by Kajtek1; 07-17-2011 at 10:35 PM.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPVFD47 View Post
I'm looking for recommendations or ideas. I don't want to heat them with a torch and risk deforming the whell.
Try a burst of aerosol freezer spray. That will shrink the bolt in seconds and give you an opportunity to free it.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 10:29 AM
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"I've hear that there is a tool, almost like an easy out but like a deep socket that will reverse thread on to the shaft part if the head is broken off, just like an easy out, and when it bottoms out will cause the lug to back out or break at the bottom of the bowl thus allowing the wheel to come off. Once the wheel is off then you can vice grip the "pin" thats left."

The socket tool is made by Snap-On and others.
Snap-On: "Blue Point-17MM-LSRVW501"
Snap-On: "Blue point-19MM-LSRVW502"

Once the bolt is removed you may want to re-tap all of the threads.

'03 CL500,'07 GL450

Last edited by reddog; 07-19-2011 at 10:34 AM.
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