C230 1997 Brake light switch removal - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-05-2010, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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Question C230 1997 Brake light switch removal

I would like to replace defective brake light switch on this car. I know it is located on the top of brake pedal behind the panel. But the question is how to remove this panel? Any help will be highly appreciated.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-05-2010, 02:28 PM
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Did you try the search in section with your model listed?
I just did the job last week on my E class and there is good topic about it in W210 section. Your car shouldn't be that much different, so it might help as well.
Welcome to the forum.
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-08-2010, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
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Good news first. I was able to search and find the process how to get access to the brake light switch. The bad news is the problem did not get fixed with the new OEM switch. My ETS, ABS and brake lights stay on in the display panel when I start the car. Once these lights are on, car stays in the limp mode and is not drivable. Mercedes parts department manager told me that if brake light switch did not fix the problem then it could be in the gear shifter. Does any one know what he meant? Appreciate your help.
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-09-2010, 08:17 AM
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Light on all the time suppose to trigger a code? Did you check it?
My bad brake light switch did not trigger a code, but my 98 model has ASR not ESP
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-09-2010, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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Before working on the car, I had the OBD!! code read by a automotive shop. The mechanic told me that code is related to speed sensor. Each wheel has it's own sensor but did not say which one. He told me that he is 99% sure it is the brake light switch. That is how I started to work on it. As speed sensor is nothing but a magnet and a coil, so did not think it would go bad. However, the coil field is fed to computer control module by a flexible wire. Now this wire could be broken inside the rubber casing which I can check by rotating the tire and see if I get a voltage spike every time the magnet passes by the coil. I don't know if that is what I should do. Just expressing my thoughts.
yes,my car has ETS and not ASR. The lights which stay on are ETS,ABS, check engine light and Brake. Appreciate your help and follow up. Thanks
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-09-2010, 04:34 PM
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I read on this site somewhere that it is possible to fit a new brake switch incorrectly.

I think that you have to fully extend one part of the device before it is installed to ensure correct operation. (sorry I am vague, I haven't done it myself)
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-09-2010, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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I followed the directions and the plunger was fully extended when installed. I even went further to verify if new and old switch are identical in operations or not with a digital volt meter. They both worked and operated identical when plunger pushed in and extended. This test was done outside the car on the table. But thanks for checking that with me to make sure.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-11-2010, 04:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riazcriaz View Post
As speed sensor is nothing but a magnet and a coil, so did not think it would go bad. However, the coil field is fed to computer control module by a flexible wire. Now this wire could be broken inside the rubber casing which I can check by rotating the tire and see if I get a voltage spike every time the magnet passes by the coil. I don't know if that is what I should do. Just expressing my thoughts.
yes,my car has ETS and not ASR. The lights which stay on are ETS,ABS, check engine light and Brake. Appreciate your help and follow up. Thanks
Your ETS monitors the outputs from your front speed sensors (L6/1, L6/2) and the rear speed sensors (L6/3 L6/4) and checks for anomalies. If not wheel-spin, it could be:

a) damaged sensor, or sensor connectors.
b) damaged rotor
c) mixed tire size selection, or badly worn individual tire.
d) fault in ETS/SPS control module (N47/2)

Sensors are located on the individual wheel carrier and can be damaged when new brake rotors are fitted. Have you done anything to your brakes recently? Also, (I think) the ETS operation is inhibited if you operate the snow chain switch on the dash. Have you tried that?
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-12-2010, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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No brake work within a year. I looked at the switches by the gear shifter and on the instrument panel, I did not see any snow chain switch. However, there is a toggle switch marked with ( W/S ) near the gear shifter. "W" is for winter driving and "S" for standard driving. I played with it but lights still stay on. There is a key point I like to mention to understand this problem and hence the solution. These lights only come on after I start the car and then stay on.These lights never came on during the middle of driving. Initially, sometimes lights will not come on and all was normal. Other times they will come on and go out after driving a mile or two. Now they come on and stay permanently. Given this scenario, is it fair to rule out b) and c) in your list of problems. The next question is how to check if sensor or connector or ETS module N47/2 is bad. Thanks
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-12-2010, 03:07 PM
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1. Re snow-chain switch. OK, maybe your model didn't have that.

2. W/S switch near auto gear lever. Nothing to do with your problem. This changes the 'map' of where your gears shift. In W, you start in gear 2, in S you start in gear 1. (there are other changes)

3. Re ETS error light. It is supposed to come on with Ignition sw in pos 2, (as a diagnostic check) and then go out, together with all the other fault lights when the engine starts. Does it ever stay on before you move away? The wheel speed sensors have no output while the car is static.

4. Re ETS error light coming on while driving, and your question about b) and c). Did you carefully check that ALL your tires are the correct size? We have had cases on this forum where that has caused this fault, and cruise control failure also. It is a bit tedious, but I would remove each wheel in turn, and inspect the sensor wiring looking for a wire break, and the condition of the rotor, while you are down there.

5. It's most unlikely that your control module N47/2 is toast. It manages other things ( eg, OVP relay K1) that would inflict greater troubles on you. So I would concentrate on sensors & tire sizes first.
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