Drilled Rotors or Not? - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-15-2010, 07:30 AM Thread Starter
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Drilled Rotors or Not?

When I hit my brakes hard the car pulls to the left, right, left, etc.

So I am told that I need brakes and wonder if any of you have tried the drilled rotors?

I see these on eBAy and wonder if they would be right for my 83, 380sl

Thanks,

Tim
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-16-2010, 12:06 PM
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No, they won't help your issue, and you don't need drilled rotors.

When was the last time you changed your barkle fluid? Maybe it's time to do a complete brake job - including rebuilding the calipers and replacing the brake fluid. I'd go with OEM everything.

Thanks!
Fred
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-16-2010, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
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Had the fluid flushed just last week - pulled the day before the flush and the day after.

Just thought the drilled rotors would help with fade, after this pull problem is solved.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-16-2010, 07:18 PM
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I think you'll find that when your brake system is as-new, they will be fine.

Thanks!
Fred
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-16-2010, 07:36 PM
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You may need ball joints. When you had them replaced?
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-16-2010, 08:44 PM
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If the car is pulling during breaking, you need to look at the calipers, not the rotors. Take the car out for a drive and take the temperature of the wheels with an infrared thermometer. If one wheel is much hotter than the other, you've found your offending caliper.

If not, take a look at the rubber brake lines. If they are as old as the car or over 10 years old, replace them. It's probable that an old line has collapsed inside and is acting as a check valve, not letting fluid out of the caliper.

If the brake lines and calipers check out fine and you still have the pull, then it's time to check out the front end components.

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-17-2010, 04:07 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by H-TownBenzoboy View Post
If the car is pulling during breaking, you need to look at the calipers, not the rotors. Take the car out for a drive and take the temperature of the wheels with an infrared thermometer. If one wheel is much hotter than the other, you've found your offending caliper.

If not, take a look at the rubber brake lines. If they are as old as the car or over 10 years old, replace them. It's probable that an old line has collapsed inside and is acting as a check valve, not letting fluid out of the caliper.

If the brake lines and calipers check out fine and you still have the pull, then it's time to check out the front end components.
Thanks very much for the advice. I DO have that kind of thermometer. I'll do the test later this week. I am sure the brake lines are 27 years old so there could even be a combination of factors...
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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The back right wheel (that I have heard squeal a little in the last week) was running 15-20 degrees hotter than the back left.

Might that be the culprit? Caliper issues?

Thanks
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 08:08 PM
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15 -20 degrees is too small difference to draw any conclusion. Could be sunny side v/s shade.
I think lot of people are buying drilled rotors for the looks. That is just like air fresheners or CD discs hanging from rear view mirror.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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15 -20 degrees is too small difference to draw any conclusion. Could be sunny side v/s shade.
I think lot of people are buying drilled rotors for the looks. That is just like air fresheners or CD discs hanging from rear view mirror.
Another test is in order.
I had pulled into the garage and there was a 10 minute lag-time for cooling.

I have had drilled rotors on Porsches for years without rust.
IMHO drilled might not really belong on this model-aesthetically anyway.
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