Smart Key does not deactivate central locking - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-14-2010, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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Smart Key does not deactivate central locking

I have a 2003 C180 classic. yesterday I could not open central locking with the smart key. When I use the pass key to manually open the door, the alarm is activated. I then insert the smart key into the ignition, but the key cannot be turned and the alarm is not deactivated. I tried the spare key with the same result. The smart key batery voltage across the 2 CR2025 bateries is 6V. Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what the problem is? The local dealership want me to bring the car into the dealership, but this cannot be done as the steering is locked and the car cannot be manuvered out of the yard to be towed to the dealership.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-15-2010, 04:15 AM
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Originally Posted by dkc180 View Post
I have a 2003 C180 classic. yesterday I could not open central locking with the smart key. When I use the pass key to manually open the door, the alarm is activated. I then insert the smart key into the ignition, but the key cannot be turned and the alarm is not deactivated. I tried the spare key with the same result. The smart key batery voltage across the 2 CR2025 bateries is 6V. Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what the problem is? The local dealership want me to bring the car into the dealership, but this cannot be done as the steering is locked and the car cannot be manuvered out of the yard to be towed to the dealership.
How about the car battery, sounds like the battery would be dead if the car does not authorise either of the keys in the ignition slot. Do you have interior lights or some other activity in the car when you open the door?

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-15-2010, 04:23 AM Thread Starter
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The car battery seems good, i.e. the voltage is 12.2V and the car lights do come on.
One other point to take note of is the red led on the radio flashes and when the smart key is pressed to open or close, the led goes off for about 10 to 15 seconds. This indicates to me that the RF is being received by the system.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-15-2010, 05:07 AM
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This looks like a CGW problem but it would need DAS to test and verify it, can you not get an indie to come out and look at it?

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-15-2010, 05:38 AM Thread Starter
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What is a CGW and a DAS. To call out a technician in SA cost roughly $100 before he does anything.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-15-2010, 05:45 AM
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What is a CGW and a DAS. To call out a technician in SA cost roughly $100 before he does anything.
The CGW is the central gate way for commuincation and DAS is the diagnostic test equipment for Benz. The Tech would fully understand both terms.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-15-2010, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Wolmer View Post
You put the key fob in it's slot, and then push the button. It may seem redundant, but the button starts a sequence controlled by the computer. With a key, you could hold it and keep running the starter after ignition. With the button, the computer runs the starter only as long as it is needed, it doesn't matter how long you hold the button, the computer takes over. Also, less wear and tear. The fob has no mechanical action and all you are doing is pushing a button, rather than turning an ignition cylinder with contacts.
I suggest you go back and re read what the OP posted, he cannot turn the key and the car does not respond to either key. Nor does the EIS Electronic Ignition Switch.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-15-2010, 07:57 AM
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This looks like a CGW problem but it would need DAS to test and verify it, can you not get an indie to come out and look at it?
Couldn't it be the EIS too? I've seen quite a few owners reporting about the EIS failure in this model?

Proper diagnosis is the conclusion in any case.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-15-2010, 08:07 AM
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Couldn't it be the EIS too? I've seen quite a few owners reporting about the EIS failure in this model?

Proper diagnosis is the conclusion in any case.
Actually DB both are problematic on this model. And yes proper diagnosis is required here.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-15-2010, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input guys. I will spend tommorrow (bank holiday in SA) checking the fuses, relays, battery, etc. Thereafter if I do not solve the problem I have made contact with a technician who will come out with a DAS to find the problem. If anyone has any ideas in the meantime please add it to the thread.
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