Motor mount removal--my minor nightmare - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-24-2010, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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Motor mount removal--my minor nightmare

okay I am trying to swap out oil pan from 190E, working on the ground mind you. Things going pretty good until I try to remove engine mount bolts. The bolts are 8mm hex slots and up inside their little hole in the sub frame an inch or two. One I get off with max effort. The other bolt won't budge and now the hex slot is sloppy and getting rounded out. No grab for allen now. Lord, help me. Of course, there's no way to get a vice grip on the out side of the bolt head cuz it's way down in there. Any suggestions on how to remove bolt without destroyng entire shock? It's raining cats and dogs here. And I'm working outside..........Lordy
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-24-2010, 10:44 AM
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Have you tried using 'penetrating oil'? Then leave for about 8 hours.

eg. (copied from another forum)

"Penetrating oil.. Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10

The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)."
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-24-2010, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tip. I heavily dosed the bolt last night when I quit. We'll see if that helped today. But I'm not sure if there's any edge left in the hex slot to grab. My bother-in-law gave me a newer 8mm allen to try again. Mine had edges that were slightly softening. Other ways to remove bolt? Easy out, I guess. I've never used one but I guess it's pretty straight forward, right?
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 12:15 AM
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Drill out the head. You are going to throw away the mount anyway?
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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Well, I really wanted to just remove bolt and replace. But my choice seems to be to 1) try an easy out but risk the chance of it breaking off (and then I'm really screwed!) or 2) just drill out the head of the lower bolt then try to remove entire engine mount shock by getting at bolt from above (which on the driver's side looks really hard to get at).

Any suggestions?
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 11:02 AM
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I am not familiar with your car, but from my general mechanical practice I would post some observations
-not likely the bolt is frozen on the thread. This is generally greasy area so I believe you are dealing with mounting torque only. Meaning the penatrants might not help too much
-getting high quality wrench should make big difference. Make sure you line it up before turning.
-playing with different sizes might help. Try to use SAE if the bolt socket is already beaten up. Per my quick calculation 11/32 would be slightly bigger than 8 mm. Pounding one in with hammer might do the trick. Not too many people realize that 1/2" open wrench is slightly smaller than 13 mm. I've been using 1/2" on metric bolts for better grip for years.
-drilling the head shouldn't bee too difficult. The bracket it goes through is usually thin so you don't need to lift the engine too much for removal of the mount with the bolt sticking in it. Than again I don't know how it looks on your car.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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and now for the happy ending--I got lucky

So I run around to a hardware store and auto parts store. They both sell me easy-out kits, two different styles, and I leave with a fear that if I snap off one of those babies up in the subframe I'll be forever drummeling/drilling/cursing. On my way home with these goodies and the pit in my stomach, I stop off at the friendly German auto mechanic in town. He shows me a handy Snap-On bolt extractor intended for grabbing the outside edge of a rounded over bolt. Use a 3/8" extension and ratchet and you're in business. The Snap-On tool fits perfectly on the sample bolt I already removed, but the mechanic says the set is worth $250 and he won't lend without the boss's okay. Boss is on lunch break. Guess what? I go home with this new principle in mind, take a 15mm Craftsman socket, stick on a long extension and tap it up onto the round head with the reamed out allen slot. Good snug fit. Then take my torque wrench and use as breaker bar with 1/2" down to 3/8" adapter. The socket grabbed at first but then began slipping. Aw shucks! Then I try bending at an angle as I turn, thus grabbing an edge. Walah, I hear the ping, the sound of music, as the bolt threads finally free up. Now it's a finger operation as the bolt backs out easily by hand. Thank you, BenzWorld gods....and Johnny from Sandera's Auto Works in Fortuna, Ca
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-26-2010, 09:28 AM
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Glad you solved your problem!
Here's another way to free a stuck hollow head metric bolt. Got this from a Porsche mechanic: Use a good quality 12 point allen wrench or allen wrench socket attachment, same size as the stuck 6 point hollow head bolt. Drive it into place & give a couple of goot taps in place to maybe loosen the bolt, then use your breaker bar to (hopefully) break it loose & remove. This has saved me a few times. Don
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-26-2010, 05:12 PM
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I was interested to read your tale of woe above. Told in fine style too. Then the triumph of good over evil.

I'll bet you slept well last night.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-26-2010, 10:51 PM
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Glad to hear you solved the problem. It is always nice when you can fix something on your own without spending a ton of money.
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