Motor mount removal--my minor nightmare - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-27-2010, 07:09 AM Thread Starter
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next problem

Well my gloating over a job well done was short lived. After I removed both lower bolts to the engine mount shocks, I tried jacking engine. But the entire nose of the auto just lifted. Do I still need to disengage driveshat? Some have said yes, some have said no. The rain's stopped, so I need to make a break for it.......................
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-27-2010, 08:55 AM
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What you mean by jacking up?
When you start lifting the engine -you are taking off load from the suspension, so it will raise the body few inches. Than at one point the spring tension ends and the engine goes up.
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-27-2010, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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makes sense

You know, that makes sense. I just didn't want to force the issue and hurt something because I didn't disengage everything that should be. I think I'll still undo driveshaft, cuz I don't want to do any damage there for sure, and then I'll try again.

Thanks for your input people!!! Trying to save the kid, who believed his low riding Benz was an off road vehicle, some big dough on labor.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-27-2010, 03:27 PM
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What engine do you have in there? If it is in my WIS, I'll post the page that covers pan removal..
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-27-2010, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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Engine is gasoline 2.6 L from 1989 190E. (I think someone told me it's 103 series on his Mercedes CD rom manual, but not sure about that)

Thanks for your help

Joel
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-27-2010, 05:55 PM
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That's right. It's a W201, with engine either 103.942 or 103.983. Regarding the instructions, you can ignore refs to models 107, 126, 129.
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-29-2010, 10:46 AM
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Where WIS says 'raise engine' - it is assumed that you are using a hoist.
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-20-2010, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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190 E oil pan removal solved

I've meant to get back to you with tips on oil pan removal. Okay, here are the things that definately need to be pulled/ disconnected: front torsion bar and exhaust. Forget about drive shaft and steering drag link (as some sources recommend).

I didn't need to worry about steering drag link and dampener (as some sources suggest). As long as the crank counter weights directly above the sub frame get rotated so they're on the up side, there will be just enough remove room to extract the oil pan (in direction of nose and downward). This was good because I didn't have a puller to release the drag link ball from its socket once I'd removed the bolt. So I couldn't/didn't remove the steering drag link.

Exhaust. I tried jacking engine high enough (using floor jack and wood block up against oil pan) to get a two inch chunk of wood between engine mounts and subframe (thus creating room to snake out the pan); but engine wouldn't free up from frame without disengaging exhaust at exhaust manifold (four bolts easily accessed from above, or below with lots of ratchet extensions).

Job was pretty straightforward actually, once I knew what I was doing. I actually got to do it twice, and was much faster the second time. Why twice? I was leaking oil badly after the first time through because, as I later found out, I had inadvertently torn the gasket during assembly. Here's a really important tip. Before assembling the new pan, first practice snaking the pan in place. Pay extra special attention to the tight area just above the subframe. My first job was botched because I had caught the gasket on the bolt head of rod cap as I snaked through. Not much damage at all, I saw upon later inspection, but the small nick was enough to allow a lot of oil to pass through once the engine warmed up.

Thanks for the tips. Here's back at ya.
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