driving a w210 in new england - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-12-2009, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
puz
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Mine OEM rims are 16" and to my knowledge most snow tires are recommended in this size.
Don't know if they changed the rim diameter later on on those models.
true, but its an offer that i dont want to pass up.

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Snow tires always help, studs are great on ice but dont spin them on your driveway. Has your mother put the selector switch on the gear selector into the "W" mode it starts the car in second gear?
the previous guy mentioned this but i forgot to ask him what this meant. Now i do recall her having this switch near the shifter, and to tell you the truth i dont know what its positioned at. Is there a light indicator as well for this switch?

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Having run studded and studless tires (studless being blizzaks), I vote for studless hands down. In my experience the new studless tires are equal or better studded in the vast majority of situations. The studless tires IMHO give bettter traction on ice and packed snow, are vastly superior on wet or dry roads to studded tires, and are quieter as well. The disadvantages are; they do wear out slightly faster, but your looking for safety, not long life and they do cost more. Blizzaks and Michelin X-ICE are both very good studless winter tires, I'm sure there are others as well.
i would agree or disagree with you in regards to studded tires, all depending on where the studs are positioned, if they are placed on top of the treads then your theory makes more sense, but if the studs are placed in between the threads and the highest point of the stud doesnt exceed the rubber itself then i think studded tires in that case will be more superior on ice and snow. In the rain im not sure, and in the dry weather i see no difference. please correct me if im wrong.
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-12-2009, 11:53 AM
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Just to clarify, I had an uphill concrete driveway, and when you spin the studded tires you will get scratch marks that you can never get rid of. The other thing is in the W/s setting the trans starts in second and also upshifts differently. There is no indicator.

Last edited by Peter Guenther; 12-12-2009 at 11:56 AM.
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-12-2009, 01:17 PM
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true, but its an offer that i dont want to pass up.



the previous guy mentioned this but i forgot to ask him what this meant. Now i do recall her having this switch near the shifter, and to tell you the truth i dont know what its positioned at. Is there a light indicator as well for this switch?



i would agree or disagree with you in regards to studded tires, all depending on where the studs are positioned, if they are placed on top of the treads then your theory makes more sense, but if the studs are placed in between the threads and the highest point of the stud doesnt exceed the rubber itself then i think studded tires in that case will be more superior on ice and snow. In the rain im not sure, and in the dry weather i see no difference. please correct me if im wrong.
All the studded tires I've had the studs in the tread block and extend past the rubber. Haven't had any were the stud was between the treads and below the rubber surface, so can't speak to them. On the tires I've had, If your on bare pavement, the studs take load off the tire tread, and don't have very good coefficent of friction vs rubber. So on dry or wet pavement traction is noticeably reduced. I've had studded and studless winter tires on the same two vehicles. (97 E420 and 04 Silverado 4x4). In both cases the studless tires have superior traction on dry and wet pavement vs. studded tires. Maybe that's also related to the tread compound for studless tires, they are designed to squeeze water away from the tread and the compound is soft. Traction on ice and hardpacked snow I'd give the studless a noticeable advantage. Deep snow is where a studded tire with a very open lugged tread pattern could be an advantage.

I initally wasn't sold on the studless tires, but decided to give them a try two years ago. Now I'm a convert. Also, it seems like after about 1 winter, I started loosing or breaking studs so by the third winter there really wasn't many usefull studs left, but still lots of tread. And I swap tires on and off to avoid using the winter tires unless the weather is bad. With winter tires mounted on seperate wheels, a good floor jack and a rattle gun, I can swap 4 tires in about 30 minutes.


--------His------------Hers-------

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Chromed OEM wheels, Akebono's, H1+90 fog, Burlwood/Leather shift knob, Rostra Lumbar support, Check seat heaters, Bilstein's, Parrot Bluetooth, GG Bailey Custom cargo mat, GG Bailey trunk mat, Real Burlwood Instrument Cluster w Chrome rings, Burlwood & Chrome shift surround, Euro headlights with Osram 70W/65W H-4's, clear corners, Silverstar corner lamps, Euro Trunk mount Warning triangle, SL600 Burlwood armrest trim & Burlwood cupholder sliding cover, Kahtec flashing third brake light (CHMSL)


97 E420 Royal Indigo/Grey Leather

Raintracker wiper, Rostra Lumbar support, Parrott Bluetooth, 17" chrome AMG replica wheels, Bilstein's, Akebono's, smoked marker lights, Osram 65W H7's, H1+90 fog, Rear Seat Child restraint Tether, Burlwood/Leather shift knob, OEM Mudflaps, DRL's, Becker Aux input
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-12-2009, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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All the studded tires I've had the studs in the tread block and extend past the rubber. Haven't had any were the stud was between the treads and below the rubber surface, so can't speak to them. On the tires I've had, If your on bare pavement, the studs take load off the tire tread, and don't have very good coefficent of friction vs rubber. So on dry or wet pavement traction is noticeably reduced. I've had studded and studless winter tires on the same two vehicles. (97 E420 and 04 Silverado 4x4). In both cases the studless tires have superior traction on dry and wet pavement vs. studded tires. Maybe that's also related to the tread compound for studless tires, they are designed to squeeze water away from the tread and the compound is soft. Traction on ice and hardpacked snow I'd give the studless a noticeable advantage. Deep snow is where a studded tire with a very open lugged tread pattern could be an advantage.

I initally wasn't sold on the studless tires, but decided to give them a try two years ago. Now I'm a convert. Also, it seems like after about 1 winter, I started loosing or breaking studs so by the third winter there really wasn't many usefull studs left, but still lots of tread. And I swap tires on and off to avoid using the winter tires unless the weather is bad. With winter tires mounted on seperate wheels, a good floor jack and a rattle gun, I can swap 4 tires in about 30 minutes.
thank you for sharing your expertise with me, I will keep looking into this issue. But it seems like winter tires are the way to go, because i dont want to sacrifice her safety on dry pavement.
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-12-2009, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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Just to clarify, I had an uphill concrete driveway, and when you spin the studded tires you will get scratch marks that you can never get rid of. The other thing is in the W/s setting the trans starts in second and also upshifts differently. There is no indicator.
what deos W/S stand for, im no where near the e430 to check in the manual. And whats the general tip on selecting W or S? thanks again guys.
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-12-2009, 03:51 PM
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W is for winter and in D the car starts in 2nd gear thus reducing tire slippage. This is also true when the car is in R because there are 2 reverse gears. The 722.6 transmission stands for 4 forward and 2 reverse gears. S is for summer and uses the lowest forward and reverse gears. As Peter stated, there is no light anywhere to indicate which mode is selected; just the position of the rocker switch.

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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-12-2009, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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thank you!
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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-12-2009, 04:16 PM
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what deos W/S stand for, im no where near the e430 to check in the manual. And whats the general tip on selecting W or S? thanks again guys.
W= Wife mode
S= Self mode.



seriously, to add the the previous post. in the W mode in addition to starting in 2nd, upshifts also occur earlier (lower rpm) and engine torque is reduced to mimimze the chances of slippage.

It is to bad there isn't an indicator for W or S mode, I occasionally hit W/S when going for the drivers window switch.


--------His------------Hers-------

97 SL500 Imperial Red
/Parchment Leather/Black Top


Chromed OEM wheels, Akebono's, H1+90 fog, Burlwood/Leather shift knob, Rostra Lumbar support, Check seat heaters, Bilstein's, Parrot Bluetooth, GG Bailey Custom cargo mat, GG Bailey trunk mat, Real Burlwood Instrument Cluster w Chrome rings, Burlwood & Chrome shift surround, Euro headlights with Osram 70W/65W H-4's, clear corners, Silverstar corner lamps, Euro Trunk mount Warning triangle, SL600 Burlwood armrest trim & Burlwood cupholder sliding cover, Kahtec flashing third brake light (CHMSL)


97 E420 Royal Indigo/Grey Leather

Raintracker wiper, Rostra Lumbar support, Parrott Bluetooth, 17" chrome AMG replica wheels, Bilstein's, Akebono's, smoked marker lights, Osram 65W H7's, H1+90 fog, Rear Seat Child restraint Tether, Burlwood/Leather shift knob, OEM Mudflaps, DRL's, Becker Aux input

Last edited by e-420; 12-12-2009 at 04:21 PM.
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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-12-2009, 04:25 PM
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Thanks e-420 I didn't realize that about the lower shift points.

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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-12-2009, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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W= Wife mode
S= Self mode.
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