Do not try to complicate the issue by thinking too deeply as you have two very important fault codes and one very important message ie;

P2001 check N3/9 (controller CDI) voltage supply 1.
P2001 check N3/9 (controller CDI) voltage supply 2.

And the message EPC so check the battery and charging circuit first of all as EPC is directly linked to battery power.

If the CDI Controller finds insufficient power it will auto shut down.

 

Yes, sorry, I forgot to mention that the old battery seemed fine (12.5v), but I did also renewed it, just in case. The two fuses to the ECU wee also replaced and the voltage there measured properly. Of course it could be a problem inside the ECU which causes it to loose power. However, I wanted to eliminate other possibilities first, as the ECU is expensive to replace and requires coding. But, I can't think of many things that would csuae the engine to die in such a way, since most with most faults, the ECU can revert to a "limp-home mode", which keeps the engine running with default values/settings albeit, at reduced power.

I was thinking that the crankshaft sensor might also be a possibility, but that has its own fault code (not P2001) and I believe that its signal is compared to that from the camshaft sensors to detect such a fault.

Loss of power to the ECU, I guess would certainly cause the engine to die. However such an intermittent problem might then be precipitated by bumps and knocks or jiggling the wiring, but these things don't seem to precipitate or affect the fault. The vehicle is sometimes used on rough roads and I havent't noticed that vibration precipitates this fault.

As I mentioned, after the engine is restarted (can take 10 mins to 12 hours), the fault will usually not re-appear if the vehicle is used every day.

This is why I was condidering whether it might be caused by a dirty or sticky throttle valve?

But would this cause the engine to stop, or would it go into limp-home-mode?

 

In that case you may be correct and the controller is at fault ie

P2001 check N3/9 (controller CDI).Circuit voltage supply unit fault

 

I have same problem on my S400CDI. And it appears only when engine is cold.
Engine starts and cuts off approx after 2-5 sec and EPC appears on the dashboard.
It happens until the engine temperature will rich 40-50 celcius.
I`m keeping pedal pressed little bit to get about 1000-1200 rpm on every cold start.
When engine is hot everything ok.

 

Same problem as yours



Hi Rider,
I got exactly the same problem with my car as you and would like to know if you solved it (I hope so for both of us).
Can you help me ??

 

Solved for us.

Just to let everybody know, we had the same problem as above. After months of trying to find a solution we finally installed a new engine control unit and guess what! More than a month without any problem! So, if you really don't seem to have any faults in the electronics but have this problem... it might be worth the investment.

Regards,

KJ

 

Just to let everybody know, we had the same problem as above. After months of trying to find a solution we finally installed a new engine control unit and guess what! More than a month without any problem! So, if you really don't seem to have any faults in the electronics but have this problem... it might be worth the investment.

Regards,

KJ

What was the price of that ECU?

Best regards

 

my s320 cdi w220 will sometimes lose power,no kickdown and wont go above 3000 rpm,if I stop and turn the engine of then restart it will be ok,it seems to do it when the engine is warm.help.

 

This issue is due to either a faulty Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) or a stuck EGR valve or a stuck throttle actuator The engine is in 'Limp mode' it will accelerate but revs are limited to 3,000 rpm and turbo is disabled, so only poor acceleration.

 

Hi guys!

Reopening this thread as my problem seem related?..

I drive the W220 -2001 S400CDI

I have experienced going into "limp mode" a couple of month now, but I found it is consistent with, and only occurs when I hit the kick-down point.
This I have related to be a faulty pedal switch, and haven't neither checked any faulty codes or ordered any switch... -Staying of the kick-down during wintertime in Norway is certainly no big offer and it hasn't bothered me to much... (Just restarting the car if I happen to push the pedal to hard)

However, to day It goes into limp-mode as soon as I give it more then ca. 1500-2000 rpm! It does it consistently no matter how many times I reset.
I don't know if I imagine this, but there seem to be different levels of limp mode?... And this isn't too bad. Max RPM ca. 3500.
The fault code reading from my ICARSOFT say "P2001-004 Check component N3/9 (CDI control unit). Mains unit fault"

Could someone please explain what I am facing here?

Thank you for your help!
/Jan Orre

 

hello,

here is what I have found in the many years of 400CDI ownership:

1.) it's a very complicated engine of early CDI generation, with plenty of sensors and systems, but quite well engineered.


2.) The following should be checked as they lead to EPC (shut-down) errors:

a) Engine Control Unit should be checked to replace failing electrolytic capacitors
b) Cleanliness of injectors, if they stick open and loose fuel rail pressure.
c) Operation of quantity control valve (Y94), as the engine uses this to control rail pressure after about 30 secs from starting.
d) Leakage of pressure control valve (Y74): Replace O-rings with kit.
e) air leakage into aging plastic pipes from fuel-filter to pump and return from fuel rail: Replace these.
f) faulty throttle position potentiometer.


3.) Limp mode with reduce power/rpm can be caused by:

a) loss of or intermittent CAN communication between engine and gearbox
b) sticking nozzle guide vanes on turbos (from dirt/soot)
c) faulty MAF sensors
d) dirty/stuck EGR valve
e) faulty throttle valve
f) persistent errors not cleared from ECU


I have realised to run this engine only on premium grade diesel (V-power, Excellium, Ultimate etc) and to run some high strength PEA-based cleaner through it from time to time. The latter has made a great difference to the smoothness and quietness of the engine.


(PEA cleaners: Archoil 6400-D-Max, BG 44K, Techron etc)

I also realised that CarSoft - at least my version of it - is too generic and does not permit running proper test routines on the engine.

 

@Arnie1 Thank you for the insight writeup! Most kind! :thumbsup:

Yes my first thought is of course the EGR valve. Same for the w211 I had before...
Yes the "Icarsoft" most certainly is a "generic" tool!... But I thought the code actually ment something!? Does it not?

You mention "faulty throttle valve". You dont refer to the pedal switch do you? Do you think this could actually be related to the kick down problem I told you about?

What do you mean by "checking ECU"?

Thanks a lot!
/Orre

 

Hello,

P2001-004 usually refers to faulty throttle valve. (Not the accelerator potentiometer, but the electrically-operated throttle butterfly valve which it controls in the intake manifold). The codes retrieved from Carsoft are actual codes but they mean different things on different MB models and engines, so unless you have the precise translation for your model of vehicle and engine variant, they can lead you up the wrong path. If you google 'MB OBD codes' you will come across a list of several pages with a number of possible meanings for each code, according to engine etc.

You should read the fault codes, as there is a specific one for implausible accelerator pedal potentiometer reading (P2002 something?), and as far as I know, whilst usually triggered by kick-down, it leads to engine stall and not limp-mode. The potentiometer actually has two potentiometers to cross-check readings and further validation is by checking the reading when the kick-down switch is activated, which should be near the limit of travel and output.

I think that if you have Limp mode with reduced revs, it likely to be either a throttle valve or turbo issue. The turbo can be cleaned with the use of fuel-systems cleaners containing Poly Ether Amine (PEA) detergent, without the need to remove. The EGR valve also, but to a lesser extent as the gasses through it are cooled and the detergents work best with temperature.

Many of the 400CDi ECU produced by Temic around year 2000 - 2001 suffered form faulty capacitors on their circuit boards which led to engine stalling (EPC Error), particularly in cold weather and the inability to re-start for hours. I had this issue on mine until I replaced the caps (though only one in particular was obviously faulty from it's LCR reading). If you don't have this issue you are lucky.

A dirty/sticky EGR will not usually limit revs or cause limp mode. The ECU learns to disable it (them - there are two) and all you know about it is that the engine runs a little less smoothly and more noisily, particularly on over-run, down a hill for example. The failure of a MAF sensor will also lead to the EGR being disabled. How do I know? - By a lot of trial and error. The EGR valves at the rear of the engine have two plastic covers that you can prise off (pull up vertically), and with the engine off, using your fingers, you can check whether the rotary cams move freely. If working properly you should see these operating with the engine on as you blip the accelerator. The engine should also run well, but not optimally, with the EGR valve electrical connector disconnected as well as with the MAF disconnected, but whilst not triggering Limp Mode, it will store internal errors and when the devices are re-connected, they may not function again until the stored errors are cleared.

If you suffer issues with a warm engine, then you might wish to check the cam shaft sensor.

But I have found that if you don't use premium diesel with these engines and do a lot of short journeys in the cold, the turbo-guide vanes will seize-up with soot and you will then get limp mode with the turbos disabled. I think the previous owner of my car must have used poor diesel such that I had many issues, including noisy idling unbecoming to a V8, that I could not fix until I ran some high-strength cleaner trough the system. Improvements were noticeable within 1/4 tank of fuel+ cleaner. Miles per gallon also went up from 23.5 to 27.5 and the turbo started to work properly again.

 

Wow! What an awesome answer! :smile
You sure shared quite a heap of knowledge there Mr.! :thumbsup:

I just now read up a bit about diesel quality served here in Norway, and realized that resellers actually misleads us in the same way they do about petrol!
That is, coloured diesel (not allowed to be used ON road) actually DO NOT live up to the EN590 standard! Leading to frustrated farmers and boat owners with modern common rail engines!...
(In the same manner as they don't inform that 95 octane contains ethanol)

I sure going to start by checking the pump station and add cleanser!...
@Arnie1 Thanks a million! 8)

 

Just another thought: the pedal-position sensor/potentiometer is connected to the accelerator (gas) pedal via Bowden cable. Check that the cable is taught with no slack or back-lash as otherwise this will not fully actuate the potentiometer when the pedal is fully depressed and the kick-down switch is actuated. I note that one newer models the physical kick-down switch has been eliminated and the function is controlled by how quickly and fully the accelerator is depressed. Maybe this has been done to eliminate this possible issue as well as save on some hardware costs.

 

Ok. Thank's mate! :thumbsup:

 

@Arnie1 Hello again!
I ask you directly.. - and of course anyone please chime in!

Last night the car died for the missus after driving 20 km. at the highway. She had to get a tow car and the S is now standing outside a workshop...
Just went there, but my "Icarsoft" coulden't erase 11 of the 17 errors at the "Common Rail" post, and the engine doesn't even ignite.
The errors are:
2 - 2001-*** CDI
2 - 2016-*** Injector short circuit
8 - 2017-*** Injector signal faulty (all cylinders)
3 - 2031-*** Glow plug
1 - 2042-004 Accelerator pedal sensor
1 - 2036-002 Heater booster (never worked)

Do you think this has got something to do about me just filling up with new "V-power" diesel and adding 2 bottles of cleaning additives? (Only been driven maybe 50 km.)
Or is it a faulty CDI or some other electronic failure?

Grateful for your thoughts!
/Jan

 

I would not think it related to either the fuel or injector cleaner, unless the cleaner has managed to dislodge some dirt that has fowled the system somewhere. but not very likely as you'd need to get through some 1/4 tank before you notice some improvement. Are you sure you filled with V-Power Diesel and not gasoline?

It's my experience that if the engine dies due to an unexpected fault such as fuel starvation or pressure loss due to a leaking injector, failing to close properly, or air in the system, then typically P2001 is reported but sometimes no specific faults may be registered, but you may find that the ECU reports faults from previous tampering or trials to disconnect various sensors such as the pedal potentiometer. Normally Carsoft can read All Faults and ACTUAL faults. The actual faults need to be cleared before normal operation resumes. If you had access to MB star, you could read fuel-rail pressure and other values whilst cranking the engine and if it starts, you can perform injector test routines as well as see the % position reported by the pedal potentiometer. My version of Carsoft has none of these.

P2001 can refer to:

P2001 check N3/9 (controller CDI) A/D converter.
P2001 check N3/9 (controller CDI) reference voltage
P2001 check N3/9 (controller CDI) voltage supply 1.
P2001 check N3/9 (controller CDI) voltage supply 2.
P2001 check N3/9 (controller CDI).Circuit voltage supply unit fault
P2001 Component N15/3 (ETC control module) is faulty.
P2001 Malfunction of exhaust gas recirculation (functional chain)(P0400)
P2001 N3/9 (controller CDI) reset identification error

But as far as I can figure, it means that the engine has died unexpectedly and hence the voltage supply has dropped due to alternator not rotating. However, I used to get this every time the engine died with a faulty ECU, before I replaced the internal capacitors. A quick test for faulty caps is to warm the ECU with a hair drier or similar and see if, after some 15 minutes of warming, the engine starts.

The engine will, however, not start until the fuel-rail pressure sensor reports a minimum of 300 bar during cranking, assuming no other faults. Therefore, I would also:

1.) replace the fuel filter if not replaced in last 10,000 miles (front of engine under plastic cover)
2.) check the condition of the plastic pipes from the filter to the pump and replace these as they will sooner or later allow air into the system causing problems. (about Euro 40)
3.) replace the tiny green O-ring and packing washer on the fuel pressure control valve, Y74, as this was leaking in my case and causing the engine to die unexpectedly (about Euro 10). See picture below. O-Ring Kit part number: A 014 997 70 45
4.) eventually, replace Y94, the fuel quantity control valve (about Euro 50 for the Bosch part)

For starting and running, the engine also requires signals from the cam-shaft position sensor and crank-shaft position sensor. These tend to fail gradually and cause difficult starting and rough-running issues when they start to fail.

P2016 check Y76y1 (cylinder 1-8 fuel injector).Short

If you have access to a multimeter, check the resistance on each of the 8 injectors, to see if any have anomalous readings. They should read around 0.6 Ohms at 20C

P2017 check Y76y1 (cylinder 1-8 fuel injector).Fault

ditto above


P2031 cylinder n pre-heating plug

It is very easy to check the resistance of each glow-plug. Remove the pug lead at the top and measure with a multimeter between the centre electrode connection and ground on the engine.
http://beru.federalmogul.com/sites/default/files/ti_04_gb_2014_fm.pdf

P2042 check B37 (accelerator pedal position sensor).Sensor 1 signal voltage too high.
P2042 check B37 (accelerator pedal position sensor).Sensor 1 signal voltage too low.
P2042 check B37 (accelerator pedal position sensor).Sensor 1/2 reliability
P2042 check B37 (accelerator pedal position sensor).Sensor 2 signal voltage too high.
P2042 check B37 (accelerator pedal position sensor).Sensor 2 signal voltage too low.
P2042 check B37 (accelerator pedal position sensor).Sensor voltage supply

A faulty pedal-position sensor will cause the engine to die as you have described, but I don't understand what would also cause all the other faults above. You can check the pedal-position potentiometer, again with a mutimeter, to see that as it is actuated you have similar readings from the two separate tracks. I'll need to look up the connector pin assignments and get back to you.

 

@Arnie1 Thank you, you are most kind!

I haven't tampered with any connectors so far, and I cleared all common rail post errors a couple of days ago. So there shouldn't be any "leftovers".

The "P20001-004 - Check component N3/9 (CDI control unit). Mains unit fault." was triggered when I first asked a few days ago, but could be cleared.
The "P20001-002 - N3/9 (CDI control unit) Check reference voltage" is new.
I have to try the warming ECU trick! Did you change those capacitors your self? Or who could you ask for such a job? I am not confident soldering PCB...

Of course checking fuel line! Both clogging and air leakage is plausible! :thumbsup:

But the P2017-*** error is for all 8 cylinder. So it isn't very likely triggered by actual faulty injectors... The P2016-*** error is for 3 cylinders though. Maybe fuel line error could trigger those errors?
Glow plug errors I think I have seen before, but it hasn't bothered me as it doesn't matter to be able to start the engine.

The "P2042-004 - Check component B37 (Accelerator pedl sensor). Sensor1 The signal voltage is too high." is new.

Could all those signal- and voltage- errors be due to ECU failure? And not to actual physical failures of e.g. sensors or injectors?

I don't know how to check/measure the cam and crank sensors? Or do you refer just to cleaning?

Biggest problem right now is where to take the car!... I would have to PUSH it to get it up to my house...
I could tow it to a garage at work, but if i cant get it running I would have to tow it somewhere else again...
Also there are not battery power enough to even crank it... Hmmm...

 

Thinking about it. When cranking the engine yesterday (with jumper cables) it immediately smelled diesel, so seem to be getting fuel!...
Also seem unlikely that I could have been driven 40-50 km. if I got bad diesel, water or even petrol when filling up the other day. The tank was nearly empty. -It is a coincidence though!...

Also. What ever failure I'm facing. I guess I'm lost without a STAR tool or some other OBD that can erase the errors.
Is it even possible to start and drive without erasing errors?
Would it start if the only thing I did was erasing OBD errors?

Hmm... Its leaning towards I'll be bound to let the workshop look at it anyway...
Not a funny thought to pay €125 an hour for troubleshooting!
(First time in my 35 years as a car owner that I have had a car in a workshop was the service two month ago)

 

Not sure that you should be smelling Diesel whilst cranking the engine. The injectors should not operate until there is a minimum of 300 bar accumulated in the common rail. ....and by that time the engine would start and run. If you smell Diesel, you may have either a leak (check fuel filter and lines around it) or you have a leaking injector (leaking into the cylinder) preventing the rail reaching its operating pressure.

On the other subject you would need to replace the cam shaft and crank-shaft sensors if they were suspected faulty, as when they fail they become intermittent, but mostly when the engine has warmed up. I would not suspect them at the moment.

I think you have a fuelling issue, with loss of pressure. I don't think all those registered faults you have are real. However, I cannot understand why you cannot erase them with Carsoft. I have always been able to do so with my version (6.5)

The engine should start even with fault codes, but it may operate in a 'limp' mode until the faults can be cleared.

A good battery is very important for these engines as the systems require a minimum of 10.5V and they have a heavy electrical load with 8x glow plugs etc,

 

Yes you might be right that I was actually smelling diesel pumping out in the open...

Ok. Thought you might know a way to measure those sensors..
But I would have expected errors there too!

No I don't think all the errors are for real neither. Maybe with the exception for the P2042... And (hopefully not) ECU...
(Could you enlighten me how you managed to fix the capacitor problem?)

I have the "iCarsoft i980". Cannot erase 11 of those 17 errors. Also been facing other stuff that I couldn't erase. (eg. service)
It's about €100,- to get a workshop to plug in their tool i think.
Quite more reasonable then just leaving the car for troubleshooting!...

Yes I know battery is alfa omega! I guess standing by the highway for a couple of hours with warning lights drained it.
Otherwise I have more problems...

Than you for your time Arnie!

/Jan

 

See this on known diesel leakage issues from filter hoses:

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w211/142982-starting-smell-diesel-cdi.html

There are plastic pipes between the filter and HP pump and also from the pump return to the filter. The sealing O-rings on their plastic connectors and the plastic pipes themselves age and become leaky. If your engine has never had these replaced. I advise to start here as if they are not actually the problem, they soon will be. They have pull-up clips to release the fitting from the pump. The pipes are transparent and the one from the filter has a section with no sleeving in order to be able to see any air-bubbles which may be a sign of air leakage in those hoses. See attached pictures, showing old (top) and new pipes (bottom). Note colour difference of plastic. Their connectors are indicated by small arrows.


Hopefully, you won't need it, but I'll post here later the details of the ECU repair to replace its electrolytic capacitors. The cost of the replacement parts is pennies but the procedure requires soldering of surface-mount components. There are however a number of ECU repair companies that now carry out this work for around euro-200, which is a lot less than euro-1,000 plus cost of re-programming a new ECU.

 

Thank you mister! Hopefully this wont be necessary...

Yes I replaced one of those hoses last summer.
Of course you are right I could have replaced others too! -Totally hard and cracker crisp!...

 

Hi again.
The story continues...

I did let the workshop do some troubleshooting, with a note from me about the conclusions @Arnie1 helped with, and with a order to limit time spent.

Talked to the guy today, and he had only used an hour so far...
-He had managed to start the car and keep it idling roughly at very low rpm with some help of starting fluid. But as soon as trying to rev it, it totally dies...

Because of the pressure needed in the common rail to even start, he didn't believe in a fuel issue. -Though there IS a persistent error for one injector!
I pointed out that it would still be possible with air in the system. But I understood that he did not really believe that's the case for a modern engine...

He was quite convinced that the cam chain had skipped a tooth...
This is NOT a MB shop, and I have noticed that they are quite novice about my car. Actually this is the only 8 cylinder S-class they have been working with...
But they had done the cam chain job on several MB R-class!? I don't know, but he said the engines were similar built. -He even said one cam chain job had to be redone once more within quite few thousand km.!?. (This is due to chain stretch)

-And I bought a Mercedes BECAUSE of the cam CHAIN, to escape the belt drive hassle!...

I pointed out that it could just be bad sensors, but he was sceptic because the error code point at a sync fault..

Well... For now we will do the "heat up the ECU test" for me.. We'll see if that show anything.
They also will let me keep the car with them while doing some more investigations my self, and maybe ordering cam and crank sensors or what ever.

They estimated a full day work just to CHECK the timing. (about €1000,-)
Doing a cam chain change they did not even know how to address... -It's a complicated car...
(When I do motorcycle cam chain change, I use to split the chain, fit the new one to the end, and drag it threw while turning the crank, he did not know if that's possible?)
Also, do you really need to do all that screwing (about 8 hours) just to check timing?

I did get a readout of the fault memory before and after reset:

 

OK, there is a difference between the OM628 (the 400CDi) engines before 2002 and those after, which had an anti-skip feature added to the chain tensioner. If you google this you will find only one or two reports of people with noisy chains on M-Class (similar, as you say, to S-class implementation of OM628) engines. It's an involved job.

This is one of the very few posts on the subject:
W163 ML400 CDi and clicking noise when hot.Timing chain?HELP! | MBClub UK - Bringing together Mercedes Enthusiasts

also:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/g-class/1530574-time-chain-crank-noise.html


However, before the chain is likely to skip, you will definitely notice a clattering sound from it.

I think that before you pour more money in to this you need to go somewhere that has a proper MB Star Diagnostic tool, that allows specific tests of valves and injectors to be run at the press of a button. You also have several other, simpler, things that could be causing your problems, so start with those first (electric fuel pump, Y94 and Y74 valves, faulty injectors, blocked fuel filters, stuck EGR or throttle valve, cam/crank shaft sensors). You can also have your injectors cleaned and tested, by a specialist centre, or at the very least perform a leak-off test on them. This test is very simple and you can look it up on the internet.

Also note that if you look on Mobile.de you will find hundreds of listed OM628-engined vehicles with intergalactic mileages of 400,000 km or higher. The engines can't all be skipping timing chains.

But, having said all of the above...

P2005 can have any of the following definitions below (in relation to crankshaft sensor)
Note that a good crankshaft sensor signal is necessary for the car to start. Start with this as it's easy to replace (as is the camshaft sensor) - about 30 mins and they are not expensive if you buy the Bosch OEM part.

The 'synchronisation' bit in the error message may be just that the sensor is missing some pulses due to being defective as if the crankshaft is rotating at wrong speed relative to camshaft rather than that the phase between them is out of sync as in the case of a skipped-tooth on the chain.

Therefore, I suggest that before you do anything else, you replace the crankshaft sensor and the camshaft sensor.


P2005 check L5 (crankshaft position sensor).Over speed
P2005 check L5 (crankshaft position sensor).Positive rotate speed grads too large
P2005 check L5 (crankshaft position sensor).Signal interrupted while operating
P2005 check L5 (crankshaft position sensor).Signal interrupted while starting
P2005 check L5 (crankshaft position sensor).Synchronization between crankshaft and camshaft implausible


The timing chain is massively long and there is a spec of 11 degrees for maximum permissible stretch. The 'antiskip' enhancement after 2002, is essentially an improved chain tensioner and rail. The engine oil quality has a lot to do with this as the tensioner is hydraulic. Some people have fixed their rattles just by replacing the tensioner [235] in diagram. Failed tensioners (noted by prolonged chain rattle on start-up) no longer hold oil pressure and this could lead eventually to skipping.

 

Yes I'm thinking in the same lines.
Hopefully Ill have the crank and cam sensors Monday. (Oem cost at least €200/pcs here btw!)

First thing I did when he talked about the diagnostic errors was to refer to the Star tool. But workshop isn't too willing to acknowledge shortcomings in their overpriced tools...

/Jan

 

Yes, I know that things are expensive in Norway, but Euro-200 a piece seems excessive. That's more expensive than MB Parts Dept prices.


This company, AutoDoc, below, is where I have been buying parts from recently. The company is based in Germany and operate a number of similar websites -some with different names - for auto parts:


Edit:
actually I see the same AutoDoc parts website also operates in Norway:
https://www.autodoc.co.no/bildeler/...o/bildeler/mercedes-benz/s-klasse/s-klasse-w220/14726-s-400-cdi-220-028-220-128

camshaft sensor (Hella brand, around 350 kr):
https://www.autodoc.co.no/reservede...nsor-15033/mercedes-benz/s-klasse/s-klasse-w220/14726-s-400-cdi-220-028-220-128

you can similarly find crankshaft sensor (Bosch OE: 395 Kr):
https://www.autodoc.co.no/search?keyword=0+261+210+170



But you can mail order from Germany if less expensive:

UK and German websites:

Crank shaft sensor (Bosch: GBP £32 or euro 36):
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts...ensor-15032/mercedes-benz/s-klasse/s-class-w220/14726-s-400-cdi-220-028-220-128

Bosch OE part:
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bosch/1149636

in Euro (Germany):
https://www.autodoc.de/bosch/1149636


Camshaft sensor (Hella £29 or euro 31)
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts...ensor-15033/mercedes-benz/s-klasse/s-class-w220/14726-s-400-cdi-220-028-220-128
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/hella/938059

in Euro (Germany):
https://www.autodoc.de/hella/938059