them bolts - Mercedes-Benz Forum

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-07-2009, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
BenzWorld Junior Member
 
Date registered: Sep 2009
Vehicle: now:380 sel,
Location: norway
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
them bolts

Today my genius brain figured out that it wanted to take out the thermostat from my 1984 380 sel and test if it worked properly, since my car never get properly warm when driving. Only up to 70-60 degrees.

When im loosening the bolts (3 of em) on the thermostathouse all of them breakes .

Well, looks like these bolts havent been out for a long time, maybe never??
Anyhow, reading about bolt extractors and stuff I was wondering if any here have any experience with that?

Another way to get the bolts out would be to drill them out, but im not sure what ppl mean when they say "drill them out"...
Drill many holes in the bolt until there is not much left of the bolt?? Basically destroying the bolt with a drill...

I cant pull them out cos the bolts broke to far down.
strutsekake is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-07-2009, 03:13 PM
BenzWorld Elite
 
Michael Pillay's Avatar
 
Date registered: Oct 2003
Vehicle: 500SE AMG, E350 4matic, GL 450
Location: Michigan
Posts: 5,281
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 80 Post(s)
I did the same thing on a w126 a few years ago. Those bolts do not need a lot of torque. You need an easy out. You can pick one up at just about any hardware store.
As for your heat not working, do a search for "monovalve" on the w126 forum.

Mike
Michael Pillay is offline  
post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-07-2009, 05:24 PM
BenzWorld Elite
 
Date registered: Feb 2008
Vehicle: 2004 W220 (S430) ; 2001 R129 (SL500) Sport
Location: Alabama Gulf Coast--formerly Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 1,335
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I noticed you are from Norway, so what we call things here may not be familiar to you. Go to a store that sells tools for machinists (a hardware store) and ask them for a "screw extractor" or a "bolt extractor." It is a tapered device that has reverse threads. You drill a hole in the bolt you want to remove, and screw that device into the bolt. As you "tighten" the extractor, it loosens the bolt and backs it out of the hole.

Now that I have described it, you may be familiar with it.

Good luck.

"Don't pick a fight with an old man. If he is too old to fight, he'll just kill you."--John Steinbeck
DrJfrmLA is offline  
post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-07-2009, 10:02 PM
BenzWorld Elite
 
Date registered: Dec 2008
Vehicle: w204 (C350ELE)
Location: Miami, Fl and Mar del Plata, Argentina
Posts: 1,262
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Post

What may be easier is to get some Allen or hex head type screws and a drill-tap combination (or separate) with left hand thread to drive the broken screws out. Meanwhile you get this, start softening those broken screw threads with WD40 or other rust removing oil.
JoeVal is offline  
post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-07-2009, 10:55 PM
BenzWorld Elite
 
Kajtek1's Avatar
 
Date registered: Dec 2005
Vehicle: W211 E320 Bluetec R129 SL500 - $1300 car ........ Ford F350 6l
Location: CA Bay Area
Posts: 31,759
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Quoted: 1121 Post(s)
WD40 is lousy penetrant.
in US we do have PB Blaster, I heard about Knoll in Europe.
Now examine why the bolts broke? If they are frozen on the thread because on the corrosion - no extractor will remove them unless the penetrant does the wonder.
there is nothing worse than removing broken, hardened steel extractor from the hole. TRUST ME ON THIS ONE.
So bottom line -start with drilling small hole to keep it on the center of broken bolt, Follow with bigger one in the size recommended by extractor. After letting the penetrant to work overnight try to put some torque on the extractor. Ideally would be find the safe torque for the extractor and not to exceed it.
If the extractor doesn't work -just drill the darn thing out ant retap.
Kajtek1 is online now  
post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-08-2009, 09:46 AM
Lifetime Premium Member
 
e-420's Avatar
 
Date registered: Sep 2008
Vehicle: 1997 E-420 (150K miles), 1997 SL500, (90K miles) 2015 GMC Sierra Denali 2500HD CC/SB/4x4 Duramax
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 3,366
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Quoted: 361 Post(s)
Lifetime Premium Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kajtek1 View Post
WD40 is lousy penetrant.
in US we do have PB Blaster, I heard about Knoll in Europe.
Now examine why the bolts broke? If they are frozen on the thread because on the corrosion - no extractor will remove them unless the penetrant does the wonder.
there is nothing worse than removing broken, hardened steel extractor from the hole. TRUST ME ON THIS ONE.
So bottom line -start with drilling small hole to keep it on the center of broken bolt, Follow with bigger one in the size recommended by extractor. After letting the penetrant to work overnight try to put some torque on the extractor. Ideally would be find the safe torque for the extractor and not to exceed it.
If the extractor doesn't work -just drill the darn thing out ant retap.
x2 on this advice. WD 40 is worthless (IMHO) as a penetrant, use PB blaster or even better Areo Kroil if you can find it. Spray it on, then give the top of the bolt a few good taps with a punch and hammer, let set overnight, a few more taps then on to the extractor. Be very careful with an extractor, you break it and about the only way to remove it is going to be to find someone who can use an EDM machine to burn it out, not a good thing. If the bolt doesn't turn reasonably easy with an extractor, repeat the overnight soak, if that doesn't work I go with the drill it out and retap or helicoil route.


--------His------------Hers-------

97 SL500 Imperial Red
/Parchment Leather/Black Top


Chromed OEM wheels, Akebono's, H1+90 fog, Burlwood/Leather shift knob, Rostra Lumbar support, Check seat heaters, Bilstein's, Parrot Bluetooth, GG Bailey Custom cargo mat, GG Bailey trunk mat, Real Burlwood Instrument Cluster w Chrome rings, Burlwood & Chrome shift surround, Euro headlights with Osram 70W/65W H-4's, clear corners, Silverstar corner lamps, Euro Trunk mount Warning triangle, SL600 Burlwood armrest trim & Burlwood cupholder sliding cover, Kahtec flashing third brake light (CHMSL)


97 E420 Royal Indigo/Grey Leather

Raintracker wiper, Rostra Lumbar support, Parrott Bluetooth, 17" chrome AMG replica wheels, Bilstein's, Akebono's, smoked marker lights, Osram 65W H7's, H1+90 fog, Rear Seat Child restraint Tether, Burlwood/Leather shift knob, OEM Mudflaps, DRL's, Becker Aux input
e-420 is online now  
post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-08-2009, 12:26 PM
BenzWorld Elite
 
Michael Pillay's Avatar
 
Date registered: Oct 2003
Vehicle: 500SE AMG, E350 4matic, GL 450
Location: Michigan
Posts: 5,281
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 80 Post(s)
+1 on the PB blaster.

Mike
Michael Pillay is offline  
post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-09-2009, 08:39 AM
BenzWorld Elite
 
Date registered: Jan 2004
Vehicle: 1959 220S cabriolet, 1983 240D original owner, 1999 E300 turbo diesel, 1988 560SL, 2003 SLK320
Location: Ocean Isle Beach, NC
Posts: 3,467
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 30 Post(s)
Not at all unusual for those bolts to break. A good PM would be to anti-seize them every couple of years so that when the time comes, you will have a fighting chance. I did mine this spring.

Len
'59 220S Cabriolet - for sale - http://www.mbzponton.org/mbz220s/sellswap/car4sale.htm
'83 240D original owner 351,500 miles - for sale - http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123...g-my-240d.html
'88 560SL 41,000 miles being parted out - https://sites.google.com/site/mercedesstuff/home
'99 E300 turbo 196,000 miles
'03 SLK320 34,500 miles
'14 Smart electric
sokoloff is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Mercedes-Benz Forum > General Mercedes-Benz Forums > General Mercedes-Benz

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Mercedes-Benz Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











  • Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
     
    Thread Tools
    Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
    Email this Page Email this Page
    Display Modes
    Linear Mode Linear Mode



    Similar Threads
    Topic Author Forum Replies Last Post
    In need of some bolts smemolo W201 190-Class 10 04-21-2007 03:43 PM
    bolts hschadt General Mercedes-Benz 4 07-23-2006 01:18 PM
    Chrome W126 Lug Bolts & Lock Bolts - New/Long/Unused MBL87560SEC For Sale/Wanted/Trade/Giveaway 3 04-05-2006 10:42 AM
    --bolts re960088 G-Class 2 08-11-2004 11:07 PM
    bolts phillyML W163 M-Class 2 04-06-2003 06:10 PM

    Posting Rules  
    You may post new threads
    You may post replies
    You may not post attachments
    You may not edit your posts

    BB code is On
    Smilies are On
    [IMG] code is On
    HTML code is Off
    Trackbacks are On
    Pingbacks are On
    Refbacks are On

     

    Title goes here

    close
    video goes here
    description goes here. Read Full Story
    For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome