How much approx to fix this big scratch at a body shop? pic inside - Page 3 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-22-2009, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
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ok, i will give it a try. im sure the wax is available at autozone or target etc... can anyone suggest a brand?

What about this
http://www.5starshine.com/info-quixx...h-remover.html

Will it require a lot of strength to buff out the scratch? Because to be honest, I'm basically a weakling,
I don't have much strength... lol

I didn't know the white stuff/marks was actually paint, I just assumed that it was the base of the car, the material underneath the paint because it feels kinda rough.

Last edited by jackie100; 02-22-2009 at 08:33 AM.
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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-22-2009, 08:58 AM
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It doesn't require lot of strength and this is perfect job to get some experience without risking that you can make the matter worse than it already is. The trick with rubbing compound is that you don't want to over-rub the edges of the scratch, so start in the center of the white stuff and work out. Good idea might be getting some blue masking tape and cover the good edges to prevent them from over-buffing.
Check this video Scratch removers: Tips, Ratings, car paint, car scratch repair, auto scratch remover, and car wax
I am using the scratch remover that is the first one on the left presented on video, but if you listen all of them work.
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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-22-2009, 02:03 PM
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I agree with others that you should give this a try yourself. The cost is low, chance of doing damage minimal if you work on the damaged area only (can't make it any worse, only better) and follow the advice and the helpful video offered here. And yes, use your hand/finger and a cloth, no need for a mechanical device or wheel.

The thing you need to keep in mind is that there are several grades of wax, like sandpaper has various grades, and the scratch removers, paint cleaners, pre-wax, polish, etc. run from most abrasive to least. If the product has a number on it, as part of a let's say three step process, the first one will be most abrasive and the one you want to try first, then if it does the job you can buy the others and polish out the fine swirl mark you created with the more abrasive product until it's shiny again.

The white is one of two things, paint from the pole or scuffing of the clear coat. Once you get the bulk of material cleared away you can better see what you're really dealing with. As mentioned, in many cases the scuffing/white goes away and you might be left with small but acceptable scratches that aren't as bad as you first thought. Show us some after pics if you go this route and good luck.

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Last edited by DirectLA; 02-22-2009 at 02:06 PM.
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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-22-2009, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by DirectLA View Post
I agree with others that you should give this a try yourself. The cost is low, chance of doing damage minimal if you work on the damaged area only (can't make it any worse, only better) and follow the advice and the helpful video offered here. And yes, use your hand/finger and a cloth, no need for a mechanical device or wheel.

The thing you need to keep in mind is that there are several grades of wax, like sandpaper has various grades, and the scratch removers, paint cleaners, pre-wax, polish, etc. run from most abrasive to least. If the product has a number on it, as part of a let's say three step process, the first one will be most abrasive and the one you want to try first, then if it does the job you can buy the others and polish out the fine swirl mark you created with the more abrasive product until it's shiny again.

The white is one of two things, paint from the pole or scuffing of the clear coat. Once you get the bulk of material cleared away you can better see what you're really dealing with. As mentioned, in many cases the scuffing/white goes away and you might be left with small but acceptable scratches that aren't as bad as you first thought. Show us some after pics if you go this route and good luck.

Good advice.

Another option is to get the buffing done on the entire car at a body shop. Preferably one with a computerised paint matching system in case the body is dented or scratched.

The paint matching with buff and wax will have the car looking like new and shouldn't cost more than the $500 mentioned earlier.

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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-12-2009, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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im about to go to auto zone to get some wax. can someone pls tell me if
Meguiars wax is appropriate...

I know nothing about waxing, so from what i understand there is a pre-wax, a wax and then polish included with the kit? Do I need to buy my own cloth or is that not needed?
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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-12-2009, 09:10 PM
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Jackie,

Why not Google "Auto detailers in (your city here)", which will bring up a list of local guys who, for very little $$, will buff your fender, or for that matter, your whole car. Then you can ask them if they think it needs to go to the paint shop. If it does, find out who your local Mercedes dealer uses, and give them a call. They can, if necessary, match the paint, do the painting, and if necessary, any associated bodywork. Good luck.

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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-17-2009, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, so I finally got an estimate from a local place... not a dealer but a local place


They quoted me

$922.29 for the fender repair

$1274.61 if they need to blend the door and hood for color matching

Does this sound about right? Would the dealer charge more?
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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-17-2009, 11:01 PM
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Cool The Best is not cheap...

But if you want this done RIGHT to MB standards, there is only one place in the LA Basin that does that level of quality work that I know of.
Beverly Coach Works off sawtelle does wonderful work, and it will be perfect.
Also, most dealers here do not do body work.
Hope this helps.

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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-18-2009, 06:59 AM
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Cost to fix

Here's a smart quess: $1200 to $1500. Here's why: There might be a wave type dent behind the paint damage. Either way, you will need a refinishing process that results in an "I can't tell" solution, along with the repair shop's guarantee for the work it performed.

Assume you have a two stage paint. You have damaged paint within a color zone, that being the side of your vehicle. To do a partial spot blending requires the color matching being spot on, and I mean spot on! What are those odds?

Also, you need your paint films to be within those guidelines that maximize operating features, millage rate, UV filters, etc. Blending base color, then going over with clear might sound good, but if the thickness of either is off, then durability is lessened.

Of course, one takes into consideration vehicle's age, overall condition, owner's goals, and monies available. If you think your insurance company is going to open the vault's door for your car's repair...you're a bigger fool and need to get professional help. You step up to the plate and make the decision of how far toward perfect you want your repair to go and achieve. Once you decide that, then find the craftsman to do the work.

Nothing lasts forever, and no car can be driven and not receive damage. Perfection is a goal for "garage queens" only!
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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-19-2009, 02:37 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for your advice. What ended up happening was that I went to a local mechanic place here that specializes in Mercedes in O.C and I had them do a B service for me and I also asked them about the dent/scratch and they ended up buffing/sandpapering it for me for FREE! I guess the white stuff was all paint and it came out. I can't see it at all now, it's completely gone.

Looking at the panel it does look a bit dented but it's not really noticeable. I will get that fixed later. I am a bit low on money right now with the recession. It's not perfect right now but it's not noticeable now that it's buffed out.

Last edited by jackie100; 07-19-2009 at 02:39 AM.
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