DIY Disaster - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-17-2008, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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DIY Disaster

Not really a disaster but pretty bad:

I have a 2000 E 320. I have had it for about 2 months and have very little history on the car. Last week the dash board said that I needed new breaks so I read on here how to do it and went to the auto parts store and bought pads and went to the dealer and bought new sensors and the goop for the back of the pads. I only did the front pads. I'm not sure if I will do the back myself now or not.

I put the Car up on the jack stand and started taking off the tire. All the bolts were out but the tire wouldn't come off. I never worked on a Mercedes before so I didn't know if there was a trick. I read the owners manual and did what it said but the tire still wouldn't come off. I got a fairly heavy hammer and hit the tire (not too hard) and it came off. Then I tried to take off the calliper. I didn't have the correct size Allen wrench so I went to the auto parts store and bought one. I came home and tried it and it was too big. I went back to the store and bought a set. I went home and changed the pads.

Now for the other side:

This tire would not come off. I hit it with the hammer and nothing. I went under the car and hit from behind and nothing. I got a huge bar and went under the tire and wiggled back and forth, nothing. I came in the house and did a search for a stuck tire or wheel but couldn't find anything.

I went back in the garage and laid on my back and kicked the tire side to side really hard and it came off. I changed the pads now pretty fast.

I got in the car and drove about ten miles and the breaks squeaked. I'm guessing because of the pads. I'm not taking it apart again.

Well now a day later and I can't get the dirt off my hands and I ache all over.
I now realize I'm just too old to do this stuff. Here is the real killer, I have enough money to have it done. I just wanted to do it.

Maybe this is my last repair, I'm not sure.
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-17-2008, 10:32 AM
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HI. Fill up your profile with location and model, Please so we can know what conditions you are driving in.
Corroded hub holding the wheel is common issue in snow areas. I don't recall that being big issue in CA ever.
I still think spending 2 hr under the car beats spending 3 hr waiting at the dealer and than paying them $500 for the job. At least you know you didn't screw up anything in the process, what too often is an issue at shops.
Coming to squeaky brakes, I think the only error you did was buying pads at "auto parts store"
MB are not easily forgiving wrong pads. If you read this forum you'll find that pads from AutohouseAZ, or German Star are OEM pads for good price.
And don't worry. Now the wheels will come off easly. Did yuo wire brush the rust? Can't expect that at dealer.

Last edited by Kajtek1; 02-17-2008 at 10:34 AM.
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-17-2008, 10:36 AM
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Dirty, ache all over, bewildered, pounding with a hammer - sounds like a routine DIY project to me. I can't believe you didn't enjoy it. If not you probably shouldn't do it again.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-17-2008, 11:20 AM
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i have had that stuck wheel syndrome allot!!!! Not just on our brand of car. any of the alloy wheels are prone to it. A nice 4x4 or 6x6 works nicely. leave the lugs in the rim LOOSELY and whack the tire. You may want to remove the rears too so you dont have a rainy nite flat on the side of the road.

Coat the area on the rim where it meets the hub with never seize. That seems to help stem the problem.

Your squeak is either semi metallic pads or the glue u used did not get placed correctly??

One of the reasons i quit the mercedes benz club was because the majority of the owners in my area didnt have a clue about thier cars other then wut one cost more. I was the only one who actually worked on his own car.

I found orange gojo is the best.. u get that nice orangey smell afterwards haha.

you will have less trouble probably with rear brakes.
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-17-2008, 11:35 AM
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Seem to recall reading years ago that you can break the wheels from their flange before starting the removal job, by loosening the lug nuts a tad and driving around...

Not too much of course. Anyone tried that?
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-17-2008, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keyhole View Post
Seem to recall reading years ago that you can break the wheels from their flange before starting the removal job, by loosening the lug nuts a tad and driving around...

Not too much of course. Anyone tried that?
How much new alloy rims cost?
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-17-2008, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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I filled out the profile. I live in Ct. and the car lived in NY and NJ before I had it.

I thought about letting the car down on the loose lugs but decided it was a bad idea.

The big reason I like to do jobs like this myself is just what was written above, I know what was or was not done. I didn't call the dealer for a price but I did call a local shop and I think they said 250.00 an axle with rotors and 85.00 an axle for just pads.

It's been so long since I worked on a car like this I forgot about the orange stuff and D&L.
About 30 years ago I was a mechanic in a lumber yard. We worked on a fleet of Mack trucks and Chevy cars. All very simple and easy to work on. Now everything is different. There are so many electronics on a car. I think we were better mechanics back then. By that I mean, you had to adjust an engine after a tune up. You had to diagnose a problem. Anybody here old enough the have a tack & Dwell meter in their garage on the shelf?
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-17-2008, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B15M View Post
Not really a disaster but pretty bad:

I have a 2000 E 320. I have had it for about 2 months and have very little history on the car. Last week the dash board said that I needed new breaks so I read on here how to do it and went to the auto parts store and bought pads and went to the dealer and bought new sensors and the goop for the back of the pads. I only did the front pads. I'm not sure if I will do the back myself now or not.

I put the Car up on the jack stand and started taking off the tire. All the bolts were out but the tire wouldn't come off. I never worked on a Mercedes before so I didn't know if there was a trick. I read the owners manual and did what it said but the tire still wouldn't come off. I got a fairly heavy hammer and hit the tire (not too hard) and it came off. Then I tried to take off the calliper. I didn't have the correct size Allen wrench so I went to the auto parts store and bought one. I came home and tried it and it was too big. I went back to the store and bought a set. I went home and changed the pads.

Now for the other side:

This tire would not come off. I hit it with the hammer and nothing. I went under the car and hit from behind and nothing. I got a huge bar and went under the tire and wiggled back and forth, nothing. I came in the house and did a search for a stuck tire or wheel but couldn't find anything.

I went back in the garage and laid on my back and kicked the tire side to side really hard and it came off. I changed the pads now pretty fast.

I got in the car and drove about ten miles and the breaks squeaked. I'm guessing because of the pads. I'm not taking it apart again.

Well now a day later and I can't get the dirt off my hands and I ache all over.
I now realize I'm just too old to do this stuff. Here is the real killer, I have enough money to have it done. I just wanted to do it.

Maybe this is my last repair, I'm not sure.
That is a perfect description of why I always let my dealer do the dirty work. I believe it is always cheaper in the long run. And I never have a problem getting my hands clean...

Don't believe everything you think
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-17-2008, 01:53 PM
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If you have stuck wheels, the best way to release the offending wheel is to back the bolts off 1 turn (and only 1 turn) and then roll the car back and forth a few times by hand on a flat surface.
This should release the sticking wheel.
If nothing has changed, then back off the bolts 1/2 more turn, for a total of 1+1/2 turns/per bolt.
Repeat the back and forth rolling and check the sticking wheel.
Remember, you still have at least 8 threads/per bolt holding that sticking wheel.
Remove the wheel and clean the contacting surfaces and apply the anti-seizing lube, making sure that the lube won't track to the stopping surfaces or pads when revolving.
Never pry or hit the mag unless you have spare mags.
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-17-2008, 01:58 PM
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A few comments

If all the lugs have been removed, and the car is on jack stands, you can put the floor jack under the tire and use it to break the seal. If the corrosion between the hub and the wheel is such that you can lift the car off the floor jack, something is very wrong.

I use CRC Disk Brake Quiet, and I never hear pad noise. Ever.

When dexterity is required, I use a box of latex disposable gloves. The rest of the time, I wear mechanics gloves. I think all this stuff is toxic, and treat it as such.

As for aching, I recommend tools. The right tools take all the manual labor out of the job. An impact wrench and a breaker bar will do wonders. That and a HEATED garage.
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