I lost 60% on an A160 to a rust defect they refused to fix - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-04-2008, 08:38 PM
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Date registered: Sep 2004
Vehicle: 2004 ML 350
Location: southern California
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Here's the car's data card:

VIN WDB1680332J126516
Plant 54
Model A160
Chassis 1680332J126516
Engine 166960 30 119521
Transmission 716503 00 123807
Primary Continental
Order 0 8 901 15079
Cab 00000
Delivery date 26.10.98
Dealer Australia (901)
Interior fabric gray+slate gray+orion gray (008)
933 ocean blue mica (с 01.01.1996)
280 steering wheel (400 mm dia.) and gearshift lever in leather trim; on W202 390 mm dia. (с 01.05.1984)

292 sidebag in front left and right (с 01.01.1994)

421 automatic clutch system (aks) (с 01.01.1996)

533 front and rear speakers - without radio (с 01.03.1994)

569 passenger's seat vertically adjustable and removable (с 01.06.1995)

580 air conditioner/Tempmatic (с 01.11.1982)

593 heat-insulating glass, all-around, heated rear window pane (single-sheet safety glass), band filter
green heat-insulating glass all round, heated rear window, single pane safety glass - tinted strip (с 01.01.1972)

613 lamp unit, asymmetrical, l.h. traffic (с 01.02.1963)

625 version for Australia (с 01.08.1966)


669 spare wheel (с 01.06.1995)
spare wheel (R170)

809 Change of year of model, last figure shows new model year

987 battery cut-off switch for vehicles to be shipped (с 01.02.1993)

Since this is not the only area of rust on the car, it is a doubtful proposition as to whether it is salvagable. I would have certainly pressed the dealer much harder to repair it in the first place, since the problem started under warranty. If they still refused, I would have gone up the company chain beyond that, and possibly considered legal action (that can be quite expensive, though, with no guarantees)Yes, you should have taken better care of the exterior, but rust showing up that soon is way out of the ordinary. Might be a question of throwing good money after bad at this point. A real shame.
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-04-2008, 08:48 PM
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I've spent the last 25 years living 2 blocks from the Atlantic Ocean in Florida. The only problem I've had with rust was thw car I brought here, an '84 Pontiac Sunbird turbo. From the mid-door line down it had a plastic coating to resist stone damage, which it did. The only problem was that the doors rusted from the inside. My first indication was when In was waxing it and I pushed my hand through the door. I was lucky, though; the car was rare enough that the dealer I traded it to knew he could have it fixed and still make a profit, so I got a very fair trade-in. Since then, I take care of the smallest sign of rust immediately. Also, if you are near the ocean you MUST wash your car once a week. Since 1988 we've had an XR4TI, a Geo Metro, an Altima, an Escort, an Eclipse, a Ford Focus, and my present C230 Sport. No rust problems. If you count my son's cars, an Integra (driven to pieces, but no rust) an slk 240 Kompressor, a Boxter, and a 330i, also no rust. Moral: Maintain your car!
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 07:32 AM
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If you read the small print when it comes to surface rust, you'll see how quickly they exclude any responsibility for that kind of rust.
The yellow(red) staining running down that surface shows long and steady oxidation and rusting down from that seam.
When you see flaking metal, you know that this has been going on for years without any attempt to slow or stop it.

Please post a close up pic of that inner seam with the cover open.
I know of no one who's ever collected on a rust or rust-out warranty. They just refuse to pay.
It's like advanced cancer, you can't save it at this stage.

Last edited by DEVOURS; 02-06-2008 at 05:59 AM.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 09:31 AM
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Please post pictures of the interior and exterior of the car.
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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more pics...

It been raining really hard in Sydney for the past 2 weeks so please excuse the exterior cleanliness.
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Last edited by rustybenzz; 02-05-2008 at 06:37 PM. Reason: more pics
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-06-2008, 06:14 AM
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That's one great little car.
If you want to save it, then get to a good body shop that's willing to cut out all of the rust and replace all with new metal and a very good tinsmith will reshape that opening and a bodyman will prep and paint.
If you have such a service then get the under-body sprayed with an undercoating that remains liquid and creeps into all the seams(oil or grease is recommended).
Drilling the rockers and windshield frame and posts and all fenders and inside the doors is necessary.
All nuts and bolts should be touched with oil or grease so you can remove them in the future.
Any oil or grease applied on seam rust will dramatically slow or stop it from progressing. Get it fixed because it looks like a fun little car.
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-23-2015, 06:12 AM
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Looks like that 30-year anti-perforation warranty to MB, has no value, even if all services are followed.

Please let me know if anybody have got any help from MB related to the 30-year anti-perforation warranty to MB, after the car is ten year.
To me this warranty is only for value for the MB seller.

And Daimler AG / v Dr. Dieter Zetsche, Corporate Headquarters, Mercedesstr. 137,70546 Stuttgart,Germany. Do Not reply to my mail regarding our case.

Our conclusion is then two solutions:

1. Mercedes-Benz rectifies rust damage so it holds until 2032 (total 30 years), or substitu- the car with new car.

2. Mercedes-Benz removes theirs 30 years rust warranty on all their cars, as it is misleading information.
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-23-2015, 10:25 AM
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That rust situation was obviously caused by fuel leaking out and down the side of the vehicle. You see no corrosion on the top nor on the fuel filler door. Just underneath the filler cap.

2005 S430 4Matic 'Morton' W220.183 • 722.671 Rest in Peace

Bells and whistles are thorns and thistles.
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-01-2015, 05:22 PM
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The advanced cancer could have been avoided by early treatment. As soon as the tiny bubble appears, it has to be lanced, treated with a chemical rust inhibitor, and sealed over with touch-up paint. Then observe regularly for any spread. This started in a spot that is frequently visible, so there's no excuse.

If you starve rust of water and oxygen, the process can't continue. This is the end result of years of neglect.
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-01-2015, 07:50 PM
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I wonder if after 8 years the cars is still on the road?

Gasoline is not corrosive, so I think pump nozzle dis some scratches and it went from there.
The filler pocket usually is underpainted, so it is easy to start.
On my 10 years old wagon PO overlooked blister on small plate holding rear wiper.
I immediately scraped the blister and painted it, but the corrosion already took some material. The plate is thick, so no danger about future damage, but looks ugly and could be prevented by 3 minutes of work about 5 years ago.

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