S CLASS COLD AIR INTAKE. - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-20-2007, 12:30 AM Thread Starter
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S CLASS COLD AIR INTAKE.

I don't think any one makes cold air intakes for these cars. I have a S430 and I designed a cold air intake system, and had it made. It came out so nice and clean, that people suggested I should try to sell them. Here are some pictures of what I am talking about, even if you don't want to buy one, please let me know what you think of it.

Getting rid of the stock air-box assembly actually made the engine run a little cooler. By the way, the difference in the throttle response, and the acceleration is amazing. It will fit 2000-2006 S500 and S430.

eBay Motors: Mercedes Benz S-Class w220 Cold Air Intake System (item 220151395832 end time Sep-24-07 21:22:37 PDT)
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-20-2007, 04:45 AM
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If it is supposed to be a cold air intake, why does it take air just after the radiator? The filter must be of correct type and would not make the MAF fail?
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-20-2007, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Diesel Benz
If it is supposed to be a cold air intake, why does it take air just after the radiator?
It looks like a luke warm on a cool day air intake, which can be a warm air on a warm day air intake.

Standard design must be pretty poor if this is an improvement. I'm shocked

Andrew

"That's the way I like it baby, I don't want to live forever"- Lemmy

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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-20-2007, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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There are air inlets right next to the radiator where the stock air inlets hook up, these inlets are still open allowing cold air to come in, especially on the freeway.

You wont imagine how restrictive the stock air-box assembly is, and how much heat it traps inside. It's restrictive because it's also a silencer.

I haven’t put the car on the dyno yet, but it beat a 2003 S500 on the 1/4-mile strip. I raced that same car before, and I was nowhere near beating it. I think you need to gain a substantial amount of power to beat an S500 with a S430.

The sound is great too; you can actually hear the V8.
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-20-2007, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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It has been on the car for almost a month now, ther are no problem with the MAF. I have also sold two units to the locals here, their very happy with it.
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-20-2007, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by KGSPORT
I haven’t put the car on the dyno yet
Do a "before & after" and post the dyno sheets.

The OEM airbox & filter does not starve the engine for "air." The fuel injection system compensates for the temperture of the intake air and the volume of flow.

There is no "ram air" effect that would benefit these engines, short of a supercharger or turbo . . or unless you got the car up seriously illegal highway speeds. Normally aspirated Mercedes engines draw in all the necessary air via the vaccum generated by the combustion chamber.

Therefore, it's all about temperature. Examine the surface area of the cone filter. Air is not merely being drawn in from the front, but also from the sides of the paper cone. That makes it a warm air intake compared to where the OEM tubing gets 100% of its air.
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-20-2007, 11:05 PM
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The Mann filter for my CLK430 has pleats. Each pleat is 7 inches long and .75 inches tall. That’s 5.25 square inches per pleat. With 116 useable pleats (there are 123 total) that’s 609 square inches of surface area. Per filter. There are two filters.

What’s the surface area of the filter you’re selling? Also, what’s the CFM rating?

You say the stock airbox traps heat. Is that a guess or are you using an intake air thermosensor? The reason I ask is a normally aspirated 4.3 liter spinning at 6000 RPM, at 90% volumetric efficiency is ingesting over 180 liters of air per second. That being the case, it doesn’t seem as though the air is in the airbox long enough to be "trapped and heated". If that's true, and a normally aspirated engine is ingesting hot air, the air would have to be preheated before entering the box, or the air box would have to be large enough to hold a considerable amount of air, neither of which fits the profile of the factory box - would you agree?
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-21-2007, 12:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTI
Do a "before & after" and post the dyno sheets.

The OEM airbox & filter does not starve the engine for "air." The fuel injection system compensates for the temperture of the intake air and the volume of flow.

There is no "ram air" effect that would benefit these engines, short of a supercharger or turbo . . or unless you got the car up seriously illegal highway speeds. Normally aspirated Mercedes engines draw in all the necessary air via the vaccum generated by the combustion chamber.

Therefore, it's all about temperature. Examine the surface area of the cone filter. Air is not merely being drawn in from the front, but also from the sides of the paper cone. That makes it a warm air intake compared to where the OEM tubing gets 100% of its air.
MTI Your right the stock airbox does not “starve the engine from air” and the fuel injection system sure does compensate for the amount of air that flows in. On that note, if your able to flow in more air, the fuel injection system will deliver more fuel right? And that’s how you gain power, making your engine breath better.

Furthermore, you are also right that my design does not have the “ram air” effect, even if you do 140mph, it still wont work as a ram air because it’s not sealed. Moreover, even though cooler air will combust better, it is not all about temperature, it is all about how much air and fuel you can deliver into the combustion chamber. It’s the same reason why bigger cams, and valves deliver more power, this is almost the same concept, but on a much smaller scale.
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-21-2007, 01:46 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MarcusF
The Mann filter for my CLK430 has pleats. Each pleat is 7 inches long and .75 inches tall. That’s 5.25 square inches per pleat. With 116 useable pleats (there are 123 total) that’s 609 square inches of surface area. Per filter. There are two filters.

What’s the surface area of the filter you’re selling? Also, what’s the CFM rating?

You say the stock airbox traps heat. Is that a guess or are you using an intake air thermosensor? The reason I ask is a normally aspirated 4.3 liter spinning at 6000 RPM, at 90% volumetric efficiency is ingesting over 180 liters of air per second. That being the case, it doesn’t seem as though the air is in the airbox long enough to be "trapped and heated". If that's true, and a normally aspirated engine is ingesting hot air, the air would have to be preheated before entering the box, or the air box would have to be large enough to hold a considerable amount of air, neither of which fits the profile of the factory box - would you agree?
If I was to tell you that the K&N filter (part # rc-4700) on this kit flows up to 900 CFM, would you agree that’s more then enough for the 4.3, or even the 5.0 engines with out calculating the surface area?
No I haven’t measured the temperature difference between the two set-ups with a thermo sensor. The only reason why I mentioned that the stock airbox traps more heat, is because the guy who posted the prior replay seemed to be concerned that my set-up will consume wormer air then the stock. However I have touched the stock air box after driving the car, and I have also touched the intake I have on now, and without question this set- up runs much cooler. I am not arguing with your statement that the air travels so fast through the system that there is not much time for it to heat up.

Please understand that I am not stating this system delivers more power because it delivers cooler air to the combustion chamber. This system delivers more power, just like any other high performance after market intake system, simply by elimination as much restriction as possible in the air flow.

If you really want to feel the difference simply take out the stock air-box assembly and take you car around the block without a filter (this is not recommended, but if you do it make sure there is no dirt around the mass air flow sensor). If the OEM on your car compensates for the amount of air that’s coming in, you will feel the difference in power.

At its most basic level, an engine is an air pump. More air entering the engine increases the efficiency of the combustion process creating more horsepower and torque. This system is designed to increase engine performance in both horsepower and throttle response by reducing air flow restriction.
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-21-2007, 08:43 AM
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The filter in your ad flows 900 CFM? K&N must have really improved their filtering capabilities. A few short years ago the largest filter K&N produced could flow 900 CFM. Their old 900 CFM filter was considerably larger than the one in your picture. Their current ads still claim "up to 900 CFM", which used to refer to their super-sized filter.

K&N currently advertises that their cotton fiber filters typically flow 30% more air than a comparable paper filter. The flip side of that is - if the K&N filtering material has less than 77% of the surface area of the paper filtering material that it's replacing, there will be a reduction in potential air flow (77 * 1.3 = 100.1). Hence the reason for my asking about the surface area.

As you see in the attached photo, some people try to keep the K&N surface area equal to the surface area of the filter they're replacing - resulting in an increase in potential air flow (although there are still other issues).

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