Mysterious Battery Drain - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-13-2011, 12:08 PM
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there is only one test and that is for acquiescent drain. Disconnect neg from battery and connect amp meter between neg post and earth, read current drain.
One incident we had a while back was on a porker and drained the battery overnight but was OK all day. The lifter motor for the electric window was trying to raise the window all night as the cut out didn’t work.
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-13-2011, 12:26 PM
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Thanks

If I pull out every fuse one at a time and test current draw ( after 40 mins with doors closed etc) with a fuse blade meter on each fuse will this show all the current draw in total, or are there devices in the car which are not linked to the three fuse boxes which could cause current draw?

S320 -2001-European
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-13-2011, 04:42 PM
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Forget blindly chasing fuses and no need to wait 4 let alone 40 minuets.
Put the vehicle in standard working order with all fuses and relays as they should be and check for correct value whilst you are at it.

Open the bonnet.
Disconnect the earth from the battery and insert the amp/multi meter.
Close and lock the car as you would at the end of the day.
Read the drain; this should be in the milliamp range as the only things needing current should be the radio memory, alarm standby and clock (digital or analogue).
If your drain is in the amp range you have a problem and by knowing what current is being drawn will give you a clue as to what is pulling the power.

A fully charged 55 Amp hr battery will give you 55 hours at one amp or 11 hours at 5amps which would be a 2.4 watts (12v/5amps=2.4w) bulb so you would be looking for a bulb, possibly trunk light or glove box.
If it goes flat in 5 to 6 hours then double the wattage to about 5w, this is the same as a side or rear light bulb or the radio fully on power, central locking motor. electric antenna motor.
Now with the meter still in place and some idea of what you looking for you can start to pulling the fuses most likely whilst watching for a drop in consumption, there is your culprit.

Last edited by Black eagle; 08-13-2011 at 04:51 PM.
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-14-2011, 05:46 PM
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AF1

When checking the current drain through the 77 fuses on your W220, I would concentrate on the fuses that ALWAYS have battery power on one side (Circuit 30).
The other fuses require the ignition switch to be turned to get their 12 vdc. The relevant fuses are as follows:

f9, f13, f22 to f26, f35, f36, f39, f41, f42, f55, f56, f58, f61 to f74.
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-15-2011, 02:53 AM
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Oh for the Morris 1000 and Triumph Herald days, 2 fuses +30 and +15, joy
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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-15-2011, 03:05 AM
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Oh for the Morris 1000 and Triumph Herald days, 2 fuses +30 and +15, joy
Yep... those were the days!
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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-19-2013, 10:16 PM
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Can anyone help me with a similar problem. My sis has a 97 e320 and I did a amp draw test and found when I pull fuse #17 the draw drops from 260mA down to 15mA. Only problem is that is the fuse for the infrared remote/security and the car will not start if I remove the fuse. I just upgraded the dead battery which was only a few months old but under warranty. I fear the battery will continue to die as the car is not driven daily. Please help. TIA, John.
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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-20-2013, 06:06 AM
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260Mamp on a 55 a/h battery would give you some 2000 hours or 83.3 days to flat. If it drops so far as not to be able to start in a week then the drain is greater or the starter is knackered .
Things to look for; window or central locking motor on, (not shutting off at limit switches), jammed relay, Boot light on, Glove box light on.
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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-20-2013, 08:21 AM
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their is some information on that model for the suction fan starting up 30 or more after engine is shut off. part number of the fan that applies is A203 500 16 93. its a possible cause.
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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-21-2013, 01:01 PM
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Thanks for the info guys. The infrared remote/security circuit is definitely malfunctioning and is the cause for the drain. The radiator fan doesn't come on after the car is off and everything else seems to work just fine. The key remote broke years ago and my sis has been using the trunk lock cylinder to lock/unlock the car. Recently the unlock portion stopped working and I had to break into the locked car with a wire hanger. The trunk cylinder will lock the system but wont unlock it. My guess the trunk circuit is fried from so much use. So now what I did is bypass the fuse and ran some wire and added a hidden switch outside. A bit ghetto but times are hard and she cannot afford to get it fixed. The switch allows us to stop the parasitic drain while the car is not used and when energized it automatically unlocks the doors. Win win for now. Hopefully the battery stays charged since the new drain is only 15mA after complete shutdown. Thanks again for the input!
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