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Old 11-28-2007, 02:45 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Date registered: Aug 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek Lecours View Post
So, let me get this straight.....cavity wax is applied, and then the primer, and then the color and clear.
What's wrong with that statement!!! I'd like to see that MB document.
I've never seen a rusty SL
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Old 11-28-2007, 05:51 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Date registered: Dec 2006
Vehicle: B 200 & Audi A6
Location: Lac Hughes, Quebec, Canada
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I use MB cavity wax and yes it's really wax. Primer and paint do not get applied over wax, at least not with any success. So I'd like to really better understand the steps involved .
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Old 11-28-2007, 06:49 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Derek Lecours View Post
I use MB cavity wax
What cavities do you use it in?
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Old 11-29-2007, 06:07 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Vehicle: B 200 & Audi A6
Location: Lac Hughes, Quebec, Canada
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I've used it in the doors and tailgate. All seams that I could get at including the hood.
The underbody is well coated from the factory and seems to have been heavily applied with a brush.
I removed the inner wheel wells(front & rear) and applied it to all accessible metal surfaces and aluminum parts.
The salt we have here is very corrosive for practically 6 months a year.
I'd like to keep the B as pristine as possible for as long as possible.
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Old 11-29-2007, 07:12 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Derek Lecours View Post
I've used it in the doors and tailgate. All seams that I could get at including the hood.
The underbody is well coated from the factory and seems to have been heavily applied with a brush.
I removed the inner wheel wells(front & rear) and applied it to all accessible metal surfaces and aluminum parts.
The salt we have here is very corrosive for practically 6 months a year.
I'd like to keep the B as pristine as possible for as long as possible.
They are using the same salt down here in the USA, even in Missouri. I read a article on it and they call it salt on steriods. It is way stronger then the stuff they use to use. I wash my cars 2X a week at a upscale car wash that does the bottom blast to clean the undercarriage, just to try and keep most of it off.
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Old 12-01-2007, 06:39 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Washing the underbody as often as possible is the best defense. Good luck!!
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Old 12-17-2007, 05:45 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Date registered: Oct 2007
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please advise the situation with M class... I have a 2004 ML270.... lots of dirt inside the sub-frame chassis members ... should I be really concerned or just clean it as well as I can?

regards, thanks for great information
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Old 12-20-2007, 04:37 AM   #48 (permalink)
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further to my 2004 W163 ML270....

can anyone tell me if this model has been galvanised and whether any other treatmentsa applied at the factory?

thanks, people
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Old 12-20-2007, 05:58 PM   #49 (permalink)
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please advise the situation with M class... I have a 2004 ML270.... lots of dirt inside the sub-frame chassis members ... should I be really concerned or just clean it as well as I can?

regards, thanks for great information
Clean the underbody as well as you can with a pressure washer if necessary. Any dirt on the underbody will trap moisture and help the rust start. I think from what others on this forum have said, is that your MB body is totally galvanized.
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Old 03-24-2008, 10:25 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Date registered: Mar 2008
Vehicle: 1985 280SE
Location: Australia
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I recently sold my old ford falcon (1994) and swapped one of the pannels over (after my dad had done some supermarket post-panel readjustments to it) and noticed that it was galvanised, it's odd that merc didnt take up doing it until recently and ford oz had been doing it all that time ago. It's a really good thing as far as i can tell as there was no rust on the thing anywhere and earlier models copped it pretty bad.

Last edited by Joe88 : 03-24-2008 at 10:32 PM.
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