replace fuel line with hose? - Mercedes-Benz Forum

 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 07:06 AM Thread Starter
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Question replace fuel line with hose?

I need to replace my fuel line that runs along the underside of the vehicle (85 300TD). It seems to be leaking in a couple places, specifically where it's mounted to the body. I'm not sure if it's the return or supply, so I will probably replace both.

Can I use some kind of hose instead of trying to get a fuel line that I will need to bend and fit like the other one?

Another alternative would be to just cut out the bad sections and replace them with a short piece of hose. What would I use to cut fuel line?

Thanks
Dan
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 07:18 AM
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the hose have to be rated for fuel, or fuel will start to dissolve it and you'll get little pieces of rubber into your engine. - not good.

Kirill
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muchocheko
I need to replace my fuel line that runs along the underside of the vehicle (85 300TD). It seems to be leaking in a couple places, specifically where it's mounted to the body. I'm not sure if it's the return or supply, so I will probably replace both. Can I use some kind of hose instead of trying to get a fuel line that I will need to bend and fit like the other one?Another alternative would be to just cut out the bad sections and replace them with a short piece of hose. What would I use to cut fuel line?Thanks
Dan
Hi Dan. I'm going to have to vote: BAD IDEA on this one. Sorry for having to ask you to deal with hardlines, but the idea of running hoses along the bottom of the car...hoses filled with combustible fuel...is dangerous.

You can see that for the most part the lines you are worried about are basically straight, long runs from where they leave the rear axle area to where they enter the engine compartment area. IF you wish to use hoses to splice in new hard lines to the old hard lines...at least put the hoses up inside the rear axle area and up inside the engine compartment...NOT hanging down at the low point of the car... exposed to all kinds of road hazards!

So...sorry for being so concerned about your family trips in the wagon, but that's how I feel this morning. I'll stop ranting now. Have a great day!

Dave

Buy a tubing cutter where you buy the replacement lines...the auto parts store will no doubt have steel lines that will be close enough in size to the metric originals, so that you can go ahead and splice in the replacements...SAFELY! Sorry again. I guess I wasn't done ranting afterall.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks to both of you.

Dave, that's exactly the kind of input I was looking for. I appreciate the info and concern.

I figured I would have to use fuel line instead of hoses but just wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking a safe shortcut. I guess not.

Thanks again.

Dan
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-29-2006, 07:15 PM
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Put a secton of hose in place of rusted out fuel line on my 240D about five years ago - still going strong.

Len
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-29-2006, 07:41 PM
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Safety might be a concern, but I wouldn't exaggerate it.
But diesel runs with vacuum in the main fuel line. All available fuel hoses are rated for pressure, not vacuum. I used to have diesel motorhome with lot of hoses between two tanks, transfer switch, priming pump, water separator and filters. That thing was loosing the prime on regular basis, till I replaced all that mess with copper tubing and compression fittings.
If you engine is not loosing the prime, that means leaky pipe is return.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-29-2006, 08:33 PM
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Hey, Much.

I had to replace some fuel line in an old GTO many years ago, I bought brake line in precut lengths from the auto store. As I recall it bent fairly easily, those brake lines were 5/16" but they make it in several different diameters. For tight bends (particularly near the end of the line) you might need a tubing bender but thoseare pretty cheap. I used the same stuff when I replaced the AT cooler lines on the car which was a LOT more work.

Personally, were I you and I was going to keep the car, I'd take the extra time to "do it right". Knowing Murphy and his dastardly law, that's not a chance worth taking. At some point, all you might need is a little road debris and next thing you know, you're stranded and leaking fuel.

Kaj has a good point about the vacuum issue as well, so that's another concern.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg

Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy; its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery. (Winston Churchill)
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-30-2006, 03:21 PM
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I have seen some articles about "polyetheline" tubing (spelling?) being used, it is semi- rigid, otherwise steel tubing is not that hard to work with, benders are cheap and you dont have to flare it. The fuel lines on my boat are all rubber but supported by a lot of clamps two engines/ generator/and two 75 gallon tanks. There are two clamps on every fitting such as valves to make the coast guard happy!
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-05-2006, 01:53 PM
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