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Old 01-17-2006, 01:41 PM   #1 (permalink)
palford
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Date registered: Dec 2005
Vehicle: 1987 300E
Location: Jasper, Texas
Posts: 8
1987 300E RR door inside trim panel

Can some kind soul give me some detail on the removal of the inside door panel, right rear, so I might replace the door check?? I have the E-Class Owner's Bible plus another manual, but insufficient detail.
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1987 300E
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Old 01-17-2006, 05:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
zaphodsplanet
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Date registered: Jun 2005
Vehicle: 04 E320
Location: Austin, TX USA
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RE: 1987 300E RR door inside trim panel

Quote:
palford - 1/17/2006 3:41 PM

Can some kind soul give me some detail on the removal of the inside door panel, right rear, so I might replace the door check?? I have the E-Class Owner's Bible plus another manual, but insufficient detail.

Hi.... I'm going to assume this is a bit like a 90 model.

1) Unscrew the door handle and remove.
2) Unscrew trim around latch and remove
3) pop out ashtray and power window switch...there should be a screw behind ash tray if there's one in your door.
4) I think you will want the window up to be able to access everything inside the door....

Now you're going to need something flat and wide.... Try not to use a screwdriver.... they end up breaking the little plastic pop rivets used to hold the door skin on. Using something like .... hell... I can't think of what it is right now. It's like a chisel but not that thick. I used this flat metal spatula of sorts that I also used for spreading joint compound over a dry wall seam. Anyway... slide this in on one of the bottom corners.... move it till you fell it hit something. That's one of the rivets. Twist it and it should pop it out of the metal on the door. After you get the first one off the others should get easier. Try to be careful so you don't break them. They go all the way around the edge of the door skin.

Now I may be getting confused here between 123's and 124's that I've had..... but I think it was fairly similar... being that I've done this on both cars.

The next part is a real pain when putting it back together. after you have popped all the door rivets I would suggest you pull the door skin all the way off. This means you'll have to pull up on it now to separate it on the top. There are several heavy metal clips that will sometimes stay on the door... or stay on the door skin. I think I used to have to put them back on the door before I put the door skin back on. Anyway.. it just requires a little patience and is the toughest part of this whole job. Try to pay attention to them and where they were... Ideally put them back in the same place when you put it back together... The tough part about putting those on is wiggling them around the rubber parts on the window.

Okay... once the door skin is off you need to pull back the plastic. I've always gotten away with trying to be neat about it and been able to re-attach it instead of adding more adhesive.... I was being a cheapo I guess.

Okay... once you pulled that back you should be able to access the screws to pull out the door chock. I think there were 3 on the 124... just look at your new one for reference. It's a pretty straight forward job at this point. Make sure to try and reach down into the bottom of the door. For some reason when those things break they will drop parts in the bottom of the door. Now is the best time to clean that out. And get rid of an annoying rattle if you have one like I did.

Now do it in reverse... and you're done...

I hope I remembered it correctly.... and that these instructions were of some help.

Oh... I think there may also be a screw underneath the door handle pull.... I seem to remember popping out a cover to reveal it.... you'll pull the door skin off around the pull/handle.. which will stay were it is.

Have fun.... I'm going home now..
Z
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