Car and Driver's How To - Mercedes-Benz Forum

 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-02-2005, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Car and Driver's How To

on page 35 of the October 2005 issue Car and Driver has a How to do a burn out in a manual. Thier steps are.

1. Depress the clutch with your left foot and put the shifter in first gear.

2. Put your right foot on the gas pedal, and, checking the tach, spool the engine to about 4,000 or 5,000 RPM. (Hey, that's a ballpark figure-different cars require different revolutions.)

3. Abrubtly lift off the clutch with your left foot, and transfer it to the brakes, but no hard that you will kill the engine.

4. Carefully vary the pressure on both the brake pedal and the accelerator until the rear tires are smoking and you're not moving. Listen for applause.

Now that sounds all good and well, and considering that I have not yet driven a manual I can't say this works or not, but I thought having the clutch and accelerator depressed at the same time did serious damage to the clutch plate. So what gives?
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-02-2005, 06:26 PM
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RE: Car and Driver's How To

They should retitle the article "How to Abuse Your Car." Unless you are about to drag race down a 1/4 mile track, what's the point? Even then you should get a line-lock so that only the front wheels have the brakes applied while you light up the rears.

If your clutch and accelerator are depressed at the same time, the engine just revs as it is isolated from the rest of the drivetrain.

The clutch plate experiences the vast majority its wear during "slippage" or partial engagement of the clutch. Some drivers will minimize the slippage such that a clutch will easily last over 100K miles. Others ride the clutch constantly and wear it out in 5K miles or less.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-03-2005, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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RE: Car and Driver's How To

So as long as the clutch is full in it acts as nuetral? good to know. So thier method will work? Just not good for the brakes or tires I assume.

Now on a manual is there a single point of neutral with the clutch disengaged, as in the center of the gearbox or can neutral also be the point inbetween first and second, third and fourth and so on?
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-03-2005, 10:45 PM
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RE: Car and Driver's How To

The engine flywheel turns whenever the engine is running. With the clutch pedal pressed in, the input shaft of the transmission doesn't move. With the clutch pedal released and the transmission in neutral, the input shaft of the transmission turns, but the output shaft doesn't. In any gear other than neutral, both the input and output shafts of the transmission turn.

So, there's a difference between having the transmission in neutral and simply having the clutch pedal pressed in. There's not a separate "neutral" between gears - when you press the clutch in to change gears, the input shaft of the transmission isn't driven, so there's no load on the transmission and you can shift gears.

Scott Gardner
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-03-2005, 11:50 PM
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RE: Car and Driver's How To

Quote:
drdj - 10/2/2005 7:26 PM

They should retitle the article "How to Abuse Your Car."
HA HA HAA HAAA HAAAA!!!!!!!! My Thoughts Exactly......
post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-06-2005, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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RE: Car and Driver's How To

so is the only reason why you remove your foot from the accelerator during shifting so you won't over rev the engine? So can you shift with the accelerator slightly depressed? someone I know says that you must have the accelerator depressed slightly and I'm thinking that doesn't do any good. Sorry I am such a manual newbie, but I hope to know all I can before driving one.
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