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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-13-2005, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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no light

In my 1987 300e, only the dome light works. when i open the door, all the normal lights turn on as they should. but when i went to go drop off my little brother at a sleepever tonight, none of the lights turn on such as the backlight for the dashboard like the speedometer/fuel tank/ and oil pressure. none of those lights work. in addition, none of the light for the temperature control such as a.c and heater don't work as well as the radio lights. i have tried moving the dimmer and that does nothing. my guess is that it is a blown fuse... shoudl go ahead and replace all fuses right now because of wear??? any other possibilities to why this might happen? oh all the functions work, i brought a flashlight and checked that they all work, radio works fine, ac works fine and so do all the gauges... ideas??
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-14-2005, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
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RE: no light

ok.. well i looked into my fusebox and found out there was no fuse at all for fog lights so i put one in and now they work :) they are tooo yellow though, icky. ill work on that later, maybe they will be super high beams... the possibilities!! well for the third fuse which is for :

parking/taillight right,headlamp cleaning unit, Illumination : license plate, instrument,control climate

ok when i looked in, this was fuse was blown. so i replaced it with the correct one, i forget the value but it was the white one, and when i put it in, i checked again later tonight and it was blown yet again. i am thinking this could be the cause of the license plate light not working, as well as all the inner lights and right brake light.... so what are the causes the the fuse being blown? can this be a diy project? any ideas would be appreciated.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-17-2005, 09:06 PM
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RE: no light

Hi there,

The info here that you've posted ties directly to your other post "what does this sign mean?"

If the old fuse had corroded ends, corroded fusebox clips, (good chance if the fuse metal conductor strip is made of aluminum and not brass or copper) the can cause high resistance - circuit calls for more amperage...............

2 cents MBL
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-18-2005, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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RE: no light

ok.. so replace the bulb and put in a higher amperage fuse? i heard that could damage the wiring...
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-18-2005, 08:15 PM
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RE: no light

Hi deathrattle,

Regarding your contribution: BINGO!
I wasn't advocating a change in the fuse amperage (unless indicated by the diagrams). I was giving an idea of what occurs should there be a point of high resistance at the fuse/fuse box clip, it might be helpful to the others reading the page to have detailed information regarding how the problem manifests.

[:)] MBL
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-19-2005, 06:15 PM
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RE: no light

Hi Mr. Ink.

What MBL writes about copper fuses is quite correct and very important to use in a W124. The lesser ones tend to crack and give off and on conditions, confusing the owner.

Have you tried to remove the fog light fuse and try again? I'm just thinking that the previous owner might have found that omitting that fuse "fixed" the other fuse issue. You know?

Reading all your posts, it seems your car needs a real good electrical workout.

Remember to dismantle the box and look at the wiring underneath. A lot of buggers can be found there if the car has operated in humid conditions.

Regards

Geir

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-19-2005, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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RE: no light

only the normal stuff.. hair.. dust and stuff ya know. and the light failure actually happened before i put in the fog light fuse... peculiar huh?
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