I'm finally gonna get some time the next few weekends to tear out my front diff housing. After talking with a few machinists, off road suppliers, and diff shops; it seems repairing a bent axle tube is quite common. Pulled and stripped and welding on a truss sounds to be around $500-600. I'll post some updates as I get to the repair.
My front springs are sagging and would like to do a mild lift while replacing. ORC has emailed back with 2" lift springs costing around $650 with shipping. Any experiences with this set up? I could order 460 springs through Europa--any idea on costs? I'm thinking white fronts and lilac rears--like on Dai's G...thoughts? Anyone know if the 463 springs will work on a swb 460? Springs seem to have about the same dimensions with the exception of rears being a little shorter. This route would allow me to order from any Mercedes dealer--however, don't know if it would be any cheaper. Dealers though, usually give me about 15% discount for being in the business.
Anyone have any pictures or ideas for trusses on the G axles? Most interested in the front but may toughen up the rear at a later date. Currently, I'm thinking of just welding two metal plates from top of pumpkin to left side control arm mount. Really no room to strengthen up the right side--probably not necessarry anyways being so short.
That truss will be stronger if you put it on the bottom of the axle and make it a plate that's in the plane of the axle centerline rather than a "strap" like you seem to imply. That way the truss will have to bend AND stretch in order for the axle tube to deform. It's too easy to bow a steel strap in compression like you describe and it would not add any real strength to the axle in relation to it's weight.
Someone has posted here the pictures of the axle truss used on the bulletproof Gs. It looked like a very good design. See if you can find those pictures by searching the forum.
That truss will be stronger if you put it on the bottom of the axle and make it a plate that's in the plane of the axle centerline rather than a "strap" like you seem to imply. That way the truss will have to bend AND stretch in order for the axle tube to deform. It's too easy to bow a steel strap in compression like you describe and it would not add any real strength to the axle in relation to it's weight
-Dave G.
When I was in Santa Fe in July, I got a chance to look at the "Against Gravity" 280GE that they are trying to sell. It was prepared by "pros" for the Paris-Dakar race where there is a lot of jumping.
The truss on the rear axle (I didn't look at the front.) was underneath, as you talk about. It was about 1/4" x 2" steel that was bolted (welded? I don't remember) to the diff and was connected at an angle following a straight line from the bottom of the diff to the end of the axle tube just inside of the brake drum. Between the axle tube and this bar was zig-zag truss strengthening. It looked solid as heck. Probably somewhat of a trash collector, too; but it would certainly prevent deformation.
It does appear a bottom truss would be stronger but I don't really want to lessen my ground clearance. This set up looks pretty stout for a upper mounted truss and close to what I had in mind.
Stupid, but pretty. Any sterngth that was there in the vertical sections (and that's where all the strenght is), is pretty well decimated by the laser-cut logo crap. Not to mention it being a good way to collect mud and debris and rot the axle casing.
Putting the brace on the low side won't REALLY decrease your clearance an apreciable ammount. And if you put a flat plate along the lower edge of it, say an inch wide, it'd slide over anything you hit anyway. A top side brace will be a little better tahn nothing, but if you're going to the trouble and expense, I'd do it right.
I've been dying to get down there and have a look at McCabe's truck. I should MAKE the time before they sell it. Although, I'm sure the price is high enough it'll be there a while.
My rear axle is a Track 9 racing housing. It has a reputation for being very durable. It's a pretty mild truss, but the housing tube is very thick and runs all the way to the center.
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Chuck Henry
http://www.gelaendekraft.com
I've been dying to get down there and have a look at McCabe's truck. I should MAKE the time before they sell it. Although, I'm sure the price is high enough it'll be there a while.
It's definitely a racing, not a street, machine; although it is street legal. There are no creature comforts left in it and the racing seats with the very large side bolsters are definitely designed to keep you in place. They're also hard to get in and out of.
The large inside fuel tank has been been removed, although the filler neck is still there; and there's no sound deadening stuff inside at all.
Now, if all the racing goodies are operative, it does have a whole slew of interesting toys and gizmos mounted on the dash.
They are trying to find a buyer in the "classic/vintage racing" community.
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