Brake lines - diff lock lines relationship on 460

[mmolina]

Are the brake lines conneted in any way to the diff lock lines on a 460 G? I recently just changed front disks and rear pumps but have noticed trouble while brakeing. If I step on the brake several times in a row the pedal becomes hard and there is no braking. This did not happen prior to changing disks and pumps. There is some leak in my front diff lock lines as the conection to the pump was loose and I was wondering if that had any effect on the braking system. Appreciate all the help.

Thank

Mmolina

[Tomi]

No connection what so ever with brakes and diff locks. To get an idea what might be wrong with your brakes, you should provide some more information.

When you do this pumping, is you engine running?
When you say 'no braking' do you really mean, no brakes at all or just inadequate braking?

Tomi

[mmolina]

Yes, when I do the pumping the engine is running and what I mean when I say "no braking" is the car barkes just barely and I must use the emergency stop to get it to stop. If I let go the pedal after it has become hard, braking power returns but not fully.
I am wondering if it could be brake booster problem, vaccum line or something else. What is strange is that prior to changing the disk brakes and pumps the car did not experience this behavior. I understand the front brakes are self adjusting and the rear require some "draining" if air is in the lines.

[Hipine]

...prior to changing the disk brakes and pumps the car did not experience this behavior. I understand the front brakes are self adjusting and the rear require some "draining" if air is in the lines.

When you say you changed the "pumps" are you refering to the part on the firewall that the brake pedal is connected to?

The real answer is, if you opened the hydraulic system, then you absolutely must bleed air from all of the lines. You may have other problems as well, but you need to start there first.

There's an article on brake bleeding at:
http://clubgwagen.com/gtech/index.html It is really about flushing the system, but you can follow the same steps, only looking for bubbles to stop coming out the lines instead of just looking for clear fluid.

I VERY strongly recommend some form of power bleeder for this operation. The job will be done proerly the first time around in 30 minutes or so. You can go crazy trying to get air out using the pedal pump method and it never seems to give as nice a pedal feel as a real pressure bleed.

Or, if you don't have the time, just take it to the mechanic. The whole job is less than $100 here in the USA, for comparison.

-Dave G.