Having brought my G wagon over to Zanzibar I find the petrol is really low Quality and I want to fit additional filter<br>It's a n injection system<br>I presume the feed to the unit on the manifold is under high pressure therefore not suitable for a filter how about the return pipe is this high pressure too ???<br>If so anyone have any advise on locating suitable place<br>All help appreciated to olivercheetham @ yahoo.com <br><p>
: Having brought my G wagon over to Zanzibar I find the petrol is really low Quality and I want to fit additional filter<br>: It's a n injection system<br>: I presume the feed to the unit on the manifold is under high pressure therefore not suitable for a filter how about the return pipe is this high pressure too ???<br>: If so anyone have any advise on locating suitable place<p>Many of the people on the message board have become addicted to cutting. And, from my brief conversations about this on ASH, I also picked up that cutting is considered a pleasurable thing. In my opinion, this is because it is simply a means of self-expression. Many of the self-mutilators are lonely and are unable to express and share their thoughts and feelings with others. Therefore, cutting (or far more rarely, burning) becomes their only means of letting their pain out. I strongly believe that cutting provides a cathartic effect, in that it releases tensions. Repeated cutting has been compared to drugs and sax as another form of compensatory addiction, and I very much believe that the comparison is quite accurate. The withdrawal effects from drugs, or the basic saxual drives are also tensions that can only be<br>satisfied in limited, narrowly-defined ways. Such is the same for <br>cutting, IMO. This is also why I vehemently believe that cutter are _not_ masochistic. They do derive pleasure from their cutting, but this is not because of the pain that cutting causes per se. Rather, their source of delight in harming themselves comes from this intrinsic and basic need for self-expression, which cannot be fulfilled via other means (lonely people have no one to talk to, and abused people are not likely to be trustful of others). Based on my own research and experience, I have also come to believe that cutting is a form of compensation. Intolerable mental anguish is converted into hurtful, but tolerable, physical pain.<br><ul><li><a href="http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~bshepard">Bshepard's Homepage</a></ul><p>
".....If so anyone have any advise on locating suitable place....."<p>I notice that my G has a pair of what appear to be fuel filters just ahead of the rear axle when looking from underneath.<p>Is two the usual number, or is this some kind of mid-eastern thing (I hear my truck spent it's early years in Saudi Arabia)? Or maybe I'm all screwed up and one of these is not a fuel filter. I suppose I'll have to find out some time.<p>But at any rate, since I have two there, it seems that once you have provision for two, you could daisey chain as many as you like. There seems to be lots of room under there, up high out of the way. I'm not sure how mine are plumbed, but if your concern is debris-laden petrol, then I'd think you'd want them in parallel, or maybe two coarse pre-filters in parallel, followd by a fine filter in series after that.<p>I have no reason not to believe that the mechanical fuel injection system on my 280 GE is just as fussy as any diesel system with regard to fuel cleanliness. So this is definitely a worthwhile discussion. Most USA pump gas is okay, but when you fill from fuel cans in remote areas, you're asking for debris ingress...<p>-Dave G.<br><p>
: ".....If so anyone have any advise on locating suitable place....."<p>: I notice that my G has a pair of what appear to be fuel filters just ahead of the rear axle when looking from underneath.<p>These are not a pair of rilters but a filter and accumulator. The accumulator has a return pipe coming from the side, whereas the fuel filter is an inline device.<p>The accumulator serves the purpose of taking out any spikes (pressure) in the supply to the engine and also providing an initial charge to prime the system on startup.<p>Fitting an additional set of filters to this pressurised system would need High pressure filters and high pressure hoses. I believe the hoses I replaced on mine were rated to about 300 bar pressure!!!<p>If you do decide to do this work it is worth looking at the condition of the steel pipes in the fuel system as if they are badly corroded you will not seal them properly and may find they shear undone. It is a good idea to replace them with copper pipes, andto do this you will need to order the union from MB. They come seperate from the pipe which comes as a roll of piping which you have to shape yourself, which is why it is better to use copper.<p>I hope this is of help<p>Tom<br><br><p>
Thanks for the info, Tom. I still have a lot to learn about the G wagen. :^)<p>But one point of clarification. If you replace fuel lines with copper tubing, use only the high-nickel-content tubing sold expressly for high pressure automotive applications like brake lines, or as I now hear, fuel lines.<p>The plain old copper tubing you find at the home center is not suitable. The alloy of copper they use for the consumer grade stuff will fatigue harden and crack in an automotive environment (temp flux and vibration).<p>If you buy a "kit" from MB, it will no doubt be "the right stuff". But be warned that all copper tubing is not created equal. They have a name for the alloy they use for brake lines, but I forget what the name is now....all I remember is that it has a high nickel content.<p>-Dave<br><p>
Hi Dave,<p>Yes I meant the automotive piping. This is what I have used for my G.<p>The MB "kit" is not really a kit. If you order the parts you will order seperate unions, and will be asked the length of pipe you require. This is sent rolled up in a coil for you to cut, shape and flare the ends (not forgetting to put the unions on first!!!!) The pipe is steel, which is incredibly difficult to shape without "kinking" the pipe as it hardens the more that you bend it!!!<p>I believe too that if you replace the pipe from front to back of the vehicle you may have to lift the engine and geabox to feed in the piping.<p>Another tip is to fill the compartment the fuel pump sits in with water pump grease. I have had my fuel pump replaced due to it corroding through, and the water pump grease will stop this from happening.<p>Once any of this work is done spray judicous amounts of Waxoyl over the piping and fittings to make it easier to undo the next time.<p>Tom<p><p>: Thanks for the info, Tom. I still have a lot to learn about the G wagen. :^)<p>: But one point of clarification. If you replace fuel lines with copper tubing, use only the high-nickel-content tubing sold expressly for high pressure automotive applications like brake lines, or as I now hear, fuel lines.<p>: The plain old copper tubing you find at the home center is not suitable. The alloy of copper they use for the consumer grade stuff will fatigue harden and crack in an automotive environment (temp flux and vibration).<p>: If you buy a "kit" from MB, it will no doubt be "the right stuff". But be warned that all copper tubing is not created equal. They have a name for the alloy they use for brake lines, but I forget what the name is now....all I remember is that it has a high nickel content.<p>: -Dave<p><br><p>
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