I wanted to drop a line and introduce myself. I live in the Reno,NV area. I have just purchased a 1985 280GE. It was the red one in San Francisco as listed on the clubgwagen classifieds. It is fully documented from import paperwork,buildsheets etc. All the receipts show most components have been rebuilt, ie: engine,transfercase,tranny, driveshaft, a/c etc. Previous owners, were obviously not DIY'rs as all work was done by MBZ shops. I have spent countless hours researching issues of other members on this forum, so I was pretty confident in my purchase checking all the usuals...knowing there will always be something that needs attention. This is the truck of my dreams.
The truck runs like a top,all body panels fit nice and normal areas of rust on the rear panels and underneath were not present...in fact underneath still had that new look as if never taken off road. Once I got the truck home, I started the premilinary detailing which involved taking out the interior to identify wiring of the stereo and speakers....
I noticed a dampness on the front passenger floormatting. I pulled up the matting and the so described "rust free" 280GE I have found the flooroard to have water and while chipping some of the rust with my little pick...punctured through the floor. I immediately went over to the driver side and found the same thing. I should have noticed this but my infatuation and excitement with buying a G and noting the rest of the vehicle was in excellent condition, including the original paint...I overlooked this. Under the hood is excelllent as not a hint of rust in the battery tray.
Needless to say I have a $20,000 nightmare on my hands and dont know where to start. Bottomline is everything on this is excellent except the floorboards. I will only ask 2 questions:
1. Is there hope or just cut my losses?
2. Will the POR15 treatment fair well for this repair of the floorboard and area next to both seats where the molding screws into the floor which is now rust ?
I am somewhat of a "do-it-yourselfer" as I have restored a 300d and a 300sd to showroom quality...but those had no rust.
Sorry for the rambling, but I am so frustrated as being from the west have never experienced rust on any vehicle and feel like I just got raped.
I will try to attach photo of rust. Thank you all for listening and I am sure you will be hearing more from me as time goes on.
I have used the POR products (specifically the floorboard product with the patch) and it worked well for strength and length of repair, but not for looks. You could get it flat and reposition the carpet and it would work in your application.
How does the frame and body mounts look? Rust like that usually starts to show around the windows, wheel wells, frame, body mounts, etc. if it is a systemic problem.
If it is just in those locations on the boards, it shouldn't be too terrible to repair, even if you have to weld in new metal.
Welcome to the forum. Sorry you have found this issue but it sound like it is repairable. Find the source of the leak. There are quite a few threads about leaks in these machines, try the search feature for some ideas. I have an '85 and my leak was from the windshield seal. People have also had problems with the windshield wiper shaft sealing area. I also found a leak at an upper body seam where the gutter and a body panel joined.
Faced with your problem I would take the rust to bare metal and replace metal in a section that was badly damaged. Paint it well and reundercoat the repair. Consider a truck bedliner material in the floorboard area after the repairs are complete.
One other vulnerable area in this vintage truck is the rear light area especially the area below and behind the lights. I removed the rear lights and did not find any rust in there but found thick dust/dirt that was damp and ready to start doing damage.
Sounds like you have a very nice truck. Don't be bummed out, hopefully you have found the one issue that needs attention.
dankunz-
Thanks for your fast reply. That is the ONLY rust on this thing. Underneath is clean and all other prone areas free from rust. Since my first post, I dug a little more in the dash/console and found under the Behr unit two "3-way" hoses, one of which is broken and looks like it fits into a fitting pointing down...whatever that is and maybe a source for a leak. I have ordered the EPC and CD from Haralds site to further my investigation into this as well as other things that come up.
As for the POR15...I am not concerned with looks only function and durability.
In regards to the "gutter" for which the trim piece screws down into (where screwdriver poking through), will using POR15 allow for drilling of holes to screw the piece back in ?
Dai-
when you say replace metal...do you mean once I grind all the rust down to the good stuff, leaving holes in a few places, to weld a patch ? Or do you mean replace the whole floorboard(s) ? Do you think a reputable body shop can handle this ? I can, and prefer, to do all the preliminary stuff,grinding and prepping,painting,coating...it's just I do not know how to weld...YET.
thanks for your help and concern and especially for the POSITIVE words as I have this pit in my stomach wondering what I got myself into. I was considering buying Mike Serpes G320 but opted for the w460 for simplicity's sake. Plus this 280Ge really handles as recently having the front end done and no vibrations which the new front driveshaft I assume plays a key role. I saw the receipt in the driveshaft...1500.00.
Thanks Brent,
I will do as you suggest by visiting a body specialist in Reno. I have attached photo of the only other rust spot which is on passenger side and pretty much the same. The body mounting hole looks to have collected water and rotted away that which the plastic plug used to fit into, I have evacuated all water and crud from there and seems to still have some unrusted metal around the base of the hole...although the mounting bolt will be a bear to get out some day.
Based on your photo the whole floor area is not damaged, just some areas. Personally I would work with a good/great body person who will do the job correctly. I have been farming a long time and when I break something I take it to a professional welder who wil fix it better than it was, instead of me cobbling a quick/will break again fix'. I am comfortable removing a transmission from the truck, taking it apart, and installing it myself. Body work is not part of my skillset and that's OK. I would say do the work you are willing and confident to tackle and work with someone that can take it to the endpoint you want.
The fact that you have a vibration free 460 is huge! As Douglas Adams would say: Don't Panic!
You guys are getting my confidence back. I am also trying not to let the fact that I purchased this on Friday the 13 be a factor.
I guess I should take it one step at a time, and afterall I did want a project car as I have been bored lately with my other 2 vehicles and winter setting in around here.
I think that you are in great shape. These pictured areas of rust are minor. You are looking at two or three small spots that coud be fixed by cutting and reweilding or even thorough sanding and etching with antirust acid, then close up the holes with metal and rivet into place some new metal. Personally I would check everywhere in that area. Check the undercoating in that area as well. I would consult a good body professional. Perhasp you know someone or someone you know, knows someone who you can trust.
Cheer up. Life is good just having a vehicle that you feel good about in all other areas.
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