G,,day .i presume the pinion uses shim adjustment,so seal should be replaceable easily ,in place .my manual dosent cover this. i know i need proper socket .but info is needed ,is ithe seal available as non genuine part ? torques etc ,tips? thanks.kerry.
As you can see from Harald's link, the pinion depth is set by crush sleeve, not shims as you presumed. Doing the seals in the manner described requires greater care than on a shim-set pinion for the reasons detailed in the manual.
I'm sure you can get a seal that's of proper OD and ID from a generic supplier.
My only experience with MB seals is on the engine, transfer case, and the front wheels. In all three cases the MB factory seals were MUCH better designed and constructed than any generic replacements I could find. They had better oil direction features, more sealing lips, a better "feel" to the rubber, more robust construction, and were just better all around.
I cheap out on a lot of things, and being a one modest income guy with a wife and three kids to support, my conscience requires me to look before I throw money around. But with seals, I'm to the point that I don't look around any more, I just buy the MB ones. If I were doing the pinion seal job, I'd order MB seals.
Also (I'm sure you know this, but for the lurkers watching) pay VERY close attention to whatever place the seal lips ride. If there's any sort of a groove on the metal part the seal mates to, the new seal won't do you any good. There's always two mating halves to any moving seal and both have to be up to snuff to get the job done.
Dave brought up a good point. When the flange shows the slightest sign of a grove new seal will not keep the oil in. The one shown below did not do its job any longer. Unfortunately a new flange set you back almost $100
And I second his remarks on OEM Mercedes seals. Yes, they are expensive - but they are the best money can buy. Pinion seals are about $50. Of course you'll also need to replace the nut.
Would it not be possible to turn down the part to accept a sleeve so you get a fresh seal surface? There are some very clever seal seeve repair kits that drive on and oversize the shaft section and use an oversize seal to match the repair part.
I third Dave and Haralds view that Mercedes OEM seals are worth every penny. When you look at the cost of a job that involves seal replacements, the cost of the seals themselves is rather small. Mercedes seals usually offer extra features like extra sealing lips and often are made of Viton for critical areas like transmission imput seals. Aftermarket seals do not have the OEM extra detail that can contribute to extra life. The G has many areas that have double seals to keep oil in and water out while fording. The seals in the front swivel ball and hub bearing area are fantastic with some having more than two lips and special spiral moulding that helps keep oil in . The T case has double seals on every shaft and aftermarket seals do not work. I was sent the wrong size by Europa and tried to put it together with local seals. They leaked. Big waste of time and effort. A three dollar seal can be the death of a several thousand dollar gearbox.
G,,day ,thanks once again .your answers on seals was exactly what i presumed and expected .i agree having seen quality on other parts i have replaced ,but it never hurts to ask .400K from original is probably acceptable,(lol).thanks for input ,kerry.
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