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clutch master cylinder&slave

6K views 17 replies 10 participants last post by  mike 
#1 ·
The problems persist after numerous attempts to bleed the hydraulic system ,I still have no clutch pressure and the realization is I need the master and slave cylinders replaced.I located the parts numbers but I want to be sure, I've only used my epc a few times.

Vin#Wdb46031217021067
master cylinder-A0012958006
slave cylinder-A0002957607

And could someone recommend a supplier or any other direction I could take .

thanx
scott
 
#2 ·
aggragated - 12/10/2005 10:28 AM

The problems persist after numerous attempts to bleed the hydraulic system ,I still have no clutch pressure and the realization is I need the master and slave cylinders replaced.I located the parts numbers but I want to be sure, I've only used my epc a few times.

Vin#Wdb46031217021067
master cylinder-A0012958006
slave cylinder-A0002957607

And could someone recommend a supplier or any other direction I could take .

thanx
scott
Unless you have large amounts of fluid in the bell housing, your slave is probably OK; although, if you're doing one, you might as well do the other, too.
 
#3 ·
aggragated - 12/10/2005 8:28 AM

Vin#Wdb46031217021067
master cylinder-A0012958006
slave cylinder-A0002957607

And could someone recommend a supplier or any other direction I could take .

thanx
scott

Scott,

The parts are pretty pricey. Europa normally has them in stock, but it is over $400 for the pair. Depending on the currency its about $150 for the slave and about $250 for the master. Mark (Inkblotz) recently found a slave cylinder from a more common Mercedes that crosses. I believe it was from an early 80s 240D. It was much cheaper and more readily available. Hopefully he will chime in. I dont remember anyone finding a cross for the master cylinder, but maybe someone will. If you dont need it right away (perhaps you have another vehicle) I'd try Sean (Eurotruck) in GA. He's on this forum.

Bruce
 
#4 ·
I hate to suggest it, but maybe try a pressurized "back bleed". For this one you open the bleeder screw on the slave, firmly attach a hose (like with a wire tie as a clamp) and then force fluid backwards through the system up to the master cylinder.

Sometimes this way will dislodge a bubble that was trapped while bleeding the normal direction.

Another place to look is inside the bulkhead where the pedal rod comes through from the MC. If you see any fluid there, it's the MC.

It might also work to just disassemble and thoroughly clean the master cylinder. I did that for a guy who had your symptoms a few years back. The fluid in his reservoir was black and cruddy and full of little rubbery chunks. One of those chunks had lodged in the seal preventing full pressure build up. The seal itself was fine though. If your fluid is gunky like that, a good cleaning with denatured alcohol might do the trick.

Check the prices again, but last time I did, a rebuild kit was not cost effective, it was only a few dollars more for the whole assembly, and that of course got you a new cylinder bore, which can be a part of the problem. Though if you went the cleaning route first, you'd know the condition of your bore for sure.

And don't discount the other poster's reference to the flex line. If I was going to the trouble to do new master and slave, I'd certainly do teh flex line too.

Good luck!

-Dave G.
 
#5 ·
These folks can be pricey, but their solutions are excellent.

http://www.whitepost.com/brake.html
 
#6 ·
RE: clutch master cylinder & slave

I purchased the Clutch master direct from the local Mercedes Dealer (they happened to have it in stock). The part number is A 001 295 8006 I got a good deal at the time $141.44. The regular price was $262.47 from the dealer. Sean's price @ Eurotruck was about the same maybe a little less. I would have bought it from him but he was out of stock @ the time. I will do some looking into the slave cylinder. That part was fairly generic to many Mercedes I believe the 240D was on the list. The main thing to look for was the bolt pattern they were not @ 12:00 and 6:00. It was more like 12:00 and 5:00.


Mark
 
#7 ·
RE: clutch master cylinder & slave

inkblotz - 12/10/2005 12:08 PM
The main thing to look for was the bolt pattern they were not @ 12:00 and 6:00. It was more like 6:00 and 2:00.


Mark
That depends on the transmission. The 4 speed is 12 & 6. The 5-speed is 12 & 4 (2 & 6[;)]).
 
#9 ·
I just came from the dealer and he confirmed that he had the available part #s in his system but that he would have to contact Germany to verify and order it(4+ days)[:(] $226.24 master cyl

Mark, I checked your previous post about the 240d slave cylinder interchange but I was under the impression it would only work for your 5 spd . If I could use that on my 4spd it would definitely help.

If anyone has any repair kits that would fit my setup PM me.

I'll try contacting Sean at Eurotruck

thanx
scott
 
#11 ·
aggragated - 12/10/2005 12:34 PM

I just came from the dealer and he confirmed that he had the available part #s in his system but that he would have to contact Germany to verify and order it(4+ days)[:(] $226.24 master cyl

scott
If it's a valid MBUSA part, try Steve at Europarts in San Diego:

http://www.europarts-sd.com/index.html

Use the email link on his homepage, not the form.

A few of us here have found his prices and service second to none. Tell him I referred you from the BenzWorld Forums.
 
#13 ·
Have you pulled you slave Cylinder to determin if it is the 12:00 6:00 or the 12:00 5:00 bolt version?

Check this link out. Both types of Slave cylinders are listed here I think that one should work for you depending on the bolt pattern.

http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsbin/wizard.jsp?year=1981&make=MB&model=240-D-002&category=All?=Clutch%20Slave%20Cylinder&dp=false&appChassis=_any

Mark
 
#14 ·
As an overveiw to the pedal pressure problem.
This is similar to problems experienced with the 207/307/8 vans which use the same/very similar parts to the G.

The pedal can fail to release the clutch and then simply work sometimes and not others.Same thing happened on my BMW RS100 bike.

The cause is the rubber piston seal in the slave cylinder sticking at the end of its bore or travel,the hydraulics are bled but no physical reaction is present.The piston wont move the clutch so no reaction pressure to form a pump for bleeding.

The comment on internal rubish is also very relavent and worth the effort costing only some fluid and time.
The small passage allowing the fluid back to the storage tank takes some finding but is to the pressure side of the master piston cup.

Check that the master cylinder piston is free to return to its rest position.

Bleed the master cylinder before the whole system by releasing the bundy at the master and pumping till bubbles are eliminated.

Many of the seals should be crossable with other Euro cars of the same part makers provided the bores correspond.

Regards Dave Mitchell
 
#15 ·
Dave, If the rubber piston seal sticks out at the end of it's bore on the G, the clutch will be depressed and you won't have any ability to transmit power from the engine to the transmission.

If it's stuck at the other end (all the way inside or back), the only way that it would not move when pressing the pedal would be if the Master Cylinder is not providing any pressure or the fluid is leaking past the piston seal. If the latter be the case, that fluid will eventually get past (rot) the bellows and leak into the bell housing. Been there and done that far more times than I would have liked with my 280GE.
 
#17 ·
Yep that as well. Last time it happened to me with a Merc bus 100miles of travel,city traffic, airport passenger collection, trailer, the lot but as in other posts take care dont rush itl get you there and back.A clutch is not essential.



Added notes fluid care

The problem given in recent posts of either failed or incomplete freeing of the clutch due to bleeding problems is often the result of oil or contamination in the fluid. The use of proper ATE dot 4 or above fluid is the prefered action and is definatly the prefered fluid and does not give seal distortion which some makes do seem to encourage. My veiw would be to replace ALL rubber components in the system if there is any doubt as to the cause of failure.
(Where fluid is shared clutch and brake reservoir or recent fluid changes are quickly followed by failure).

Dave

280 ge 1979
300 gd 1984
307d 1979 & 87
124 te 1987
Sprinter 208 1996
BMW R100RS 1980
Wife kids and granny, cottage and work to worry about.
 
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