The problems persist after numerous attempts to bleed the hydraulic system ,I still have no clutch pressure and the realization is I need the master and slave cylinders replaced.I located the parts numbers but I want to be sure, I've only used my epc a few times.
The problems persist after numerous attempts to bleed the hydraulic system ,I still have no clutch pressure and the realization is I need the master and slave cylinders replaced.I located the parts numbers but I want to be sure, I've only used my epc a few times.
Unless you have large amounts of fluid in the bell housing, your slave is probably OK; although, if you're doing one, you might as well do the other, too.
The parts are pretty pricey. Europa normally has them in stock, but it is over $400 for the pair. Depending on the currency its about $150 for the slave and about $250 for the master. Mark (Inkblotz) recently found a slave cylinder from a more common Mercedes that crosses. I believe it was from an early 80s 240D. It was much cheaper and more readily available. Hopefully he will chime in. I dont remember anyone finding a cross for the master cylinder, but maybe someone will. If you dont need it right away (perhaps you have another vehicle) I'd try Sean (Eurotruck) in GA. He's on this forum.
I hate to suggest it, but maybe try a pressurized "back bleed". For this one you open the bleeder screw on the slave, firmly attach a hose (like with a wire tie as a clamp) and then force fluid backwards through the system up to the master cylinder.
Sometimes this way will dislodge a bubble that was trapped while bleeding the normal direction.
Another place to look is inside the bulkhead where the pedal rod comes through from the MC. If you see any fluid there, it's the MC.
It might also work to just disassemble and thoroughly clean the master cylinder. I did that for a guy who had your symptoms a few years back. The fluid in his reservoir was black and cruddy and full of little rubbery chunks. One of those chunks had lodged in the seal preventing full pressure build up. The seal itself was fine though. If your fluid is gunky like that, a good cleaning with denatured alcohol might do the trick.
Check the prices again, but last time I did, a rebuild kit was not cost effective, it was only a few dollars more for the whole assembly, and that of course got you a new cylinder bore, which can be a part of the problem. Though if you went the cleaning route first, you'd know the condition of your bore for sure.
And don't discount the other poster's reference to the flex line. If I was going to the trouble to do new master and slave, I'd certainly do teh flex line too.
I purchased the Clutch master direct from the local Mercedes Dealer (they happened to have it in stock). The part number is A 001 295 8006 I got a good deal at the time $141.44. The regular price was $262.47 from the dealer. Sean's price @ Eurotruck was about the same maybe a little less. I would have bought it from him but he was out of stock @ the time. I will do some looking into the slave cylinder. That part was fairly generic to many Mercedes I believe the 240D was on the list. The main thing to look for was the bolt pattern they were not @ 12:00 and 6:00. It was more like 12:00 and 5:00.
I just came from the dealer and he confirmed that he had the available part #s in his system but that he would have to contact Germany to verify and order it(4+ days)[] $226.24 master cyl
Mark, I checked your previous post about the 240d slave cylinder interchange but I was under the impression it would only work for your 5 spd . If I could use that on my 4spd it would definitely help.
If anyone has any repair kits that would fit my setup PM me.
I just came from the dealer and he confirmed that he had the available part #s in his system but that he would have to contact Germany to verify and order it(4+ days)[] $226.24 master cyl
As an overveiw to the pedal pressure problem.
This is similar to problems experienced with the 207/307/8 vans which use the same/very similar parts to the G.
The pedal can fail to release the clutch and then simply work sometimes and not others.Same thing happened on my BMW RS100 bike.
The cause is the rubber piston seal in the slave cylinder sticking at the end of its bore or travel,the hydraulics are bled but no physical reaction is present.The piston wont move the clutch so no reaction pressure to form a pump for bleeding.
The comment on internal rubish is also very relavent and worth the effort costing only some fluid and time.
The small passage allowing the fluid back to the storage tank takes some finding but is to the pressure side of the master piston cup.
Check that the master cylinder piston is free to return to its rest position.
Bleed the master cylinder before the whole system by releasing the bundy at the master and pumping till bubbles are eliminated.
Many of the seals should be crossable with other Euro cars of the same part makers provided the bores correspond.
Dave, If the rubber piston seal sticks out at the end of it's bore on the G, the clutch will be depressed and you won't have any ability to transmit power from the engine to the transmission.
If it's stuck at the other end (all the way inside or back), the only way that it would not move when pressing the pedal would be if the Master Cylinder is not providing any pressure or the fluid is leaking past the piston seal. If the latter be the case, that fluid will eventually get past (rot) the bellows and leak into the bell housing. Been there and done that far more times than I would have liked with my 280GE.
I would still check the flex lines, if they are old the might take your pedal pressure and inflate themselves instead of allowing the slave cylinder to press on the clutch assembly.
Yep that as well. Last time it happened to me with a Merc bus 100miles of travel,city traffic, airport passenger collection, trailer, the lot but as in other posts take care dont rush itl get you there and back.A clutch is not essential.
Added notes fluid care
The problem given in recent posts of either failed or incomplete freeing of the clutch due to bleeding problems is often the result of oil or contamination in the fluid. The use of proper ATE dot 4 or above fluid is the prefered action and is definatly the prefered fluid and does not give seal distortion which some makes do seem to encourage. My veiw would be to replace ALL rubber components in the system if there is any doubt as to the cause of failure.
(Where fluid is shared clutch and brake reservoir or recent fluid changes are quickly followed by failure).
Dave
280 ge 1979
300 gd 1984
307d 1979 & 87
124 te 1987
Sprinter 208 1996
BMW R100RS 1980
Wife kids and granny, cottage and work to worry about.
Will either of these slave cylinders fit 1985 280ge ? Also is there a master clutch cylinder that will work?
Thx
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