Last guy I remember reporting this behavior was Q. In that case the cause turned out to be a right front CV that was TOTALLY roached. I mean, like, the balls and cage were NOT THERE - they were reduced to a meatalic paste inside the knuckle. I've never seen anything like it.
It's also possible that something's broke inside the t-case. Explaining in words here won't help much. If the problem is in the t-case selector, the box has to come out. No adjustment to be made.
Hey, here's a thought....Since the rear drive shaft runs in-line with the trans in the 460, maybe a dummy drive shaft could be found to be able to run straight through without a t-case in an emergency...not sure how useful, just a silly random thought (of course front DS would have to come out too.
Last guy I remember reporting this behavior was Q. In that case the cause turned out to be a right
Hey, here's a thought....Since the rear drive shaft runs in-line with the trans in the 460, maybe a dummy drive shaft could be found to be able to run straight through without a t-case in an emergency...not sure how useful, just a silly random thought (of course front DS would have to come out too.
That would be the case in most 460's but I have an additional 5:1 t-case in front of the original. Now that I think of it I could keep the original drive shaft and make that work if need be (another randum thought).
It was to be a simple answer, not remove the t-case!!!
bwillie - 7/15/2005 4:36 PM
....I have an additional 5:1 t-case in front of the original [t-case]....
So when the front box is in low range you've got the capability to deliver 5x the torque to the VG-080 that it was designed to handle?
And the corresponding drive line angles that this additional componentry entails in a SWB G...lifted at that?
And is it still on G axles?
Good luck with that....[:)]
Seriously though....if what you want is a rock buggy with G sheetmetal you should build it that way (start with buggy and retrofit G body). It'll be cheaper and better in the long run.
-Dave G.
PS - to the original question, is the front box in hi or low when the VG080 is popping out of gear?
Actually the driveline angles will be corrected this weekend. I am changing to "link" instead of the radius arms so I can correct the angles. The reason for the additional t-case is so I can go slower and not break things. I am a strong believer the slower you can go the more control you have, the less you break. I am using the G-axles until they fail and them Mog (if I had more money). On the original note-the front case is neutral when this happens.
bwillie - 7/15/2005 5:26 PM
.....On the original note-the front case is neutral when this happens.
By that I presume you mean 1:1. Then it's likely back to the original advice. Check for some kind of unusual bind somewhere in the driveline. I'm going to have to go home this weekend and look at one of my spare t-cases and see if severe "wind-up" will pop the VG080 out of gear. In Q's case, when what was left of that wasted CV would bind up, it would throw the t-case out of low range. But without seeing your driveshaft angles, it might be possible that bind in there somewhere could do the same thing.
Would like to talk to you sometime about the additional drive reduction you did. Was thinking about doing something similar, but with a 4:1 reduction to be used at idle speed only where I really needed the slow speed to avoid a problem.
Klune makes a unit for Jeeps that's extremely compact. Was going to see if Dennis at Linden engineering in Golden could fit that in there without creating more problems than it's worth.
I am still doing a little work on the mounting "tweeking". I will post a few pictures when it is all finished. This has been a bigger "job" then anticipated. There is a lot of little details that need to be addressed to avoid vibrations, linkage for the trans., etc. I think I will be happy with the final project but it has been a long road thus far.[xx(]
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