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Worthwhile to repair rusted panels

4K views 11 replies 9 participants last post by  DUTCH 
#1 ·
Harald mentioned that there had been only 5 RHD SWB 1984 Cabrio G-Wagens produced. Whether each is special depends on your point of view. Mine is a farm utility vehicle, transport between farms and gets as much attention as any other farm machinery. No hills, occasional sticky clay, out in all weathers and doing about 1000 miles annually

The soft top is in shreds but will be replaced, the GD300 been replaced 60K miles ago, the transmission, chassis etc sound and now the question is whether repairs to the bodywork would be worth the effort and expense. There is the usual rust and holes in the rear panel, door sills, headlight surround but nothing of a structural problem.

My intention was to do a cosmetic job using Fisholene/POR-15 fibreglass matt and aluminium for larger areas. Alternatively it would be simple to weld in new panels and patches where necessary but I am wary of not being able to get behind the welded line and cover with Fisholene or Waxoyl. It’s all very well at the factory to weld the sections together but then the bodywork is dipped etc as an overall protection. Any subsequent welds cannot be protected to the same degree if at all. In that respect Fisholene etc is a better long-term bet. However there will continue to be new patches of rust that’s for sure.

I’d like to have you opinions whether more than a cosmetic job is worthwhile. The G Wagen will continue it’s role so long as it runs. Many thanks Joatex
 
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#2 ·
NO - replace anything you can. I haven't any G specific experience but my other car is a 1966 230S Mercedes-Benz. My father is the original owner. The car is close to 40 years old and spent it's entire life in the Midwest USA "rust belt". Roads are salted heavily. For many many years we tried fighting the rust. The car would look great for a few years and then the rust would come back. About 7 years ago we bit the bullet. Stripped the car down to the metal, replaced the fenders, inner fenders, rocker panels, various pieces of the front unibody and bumper supports, jack points, and the rear bumper. The quarter panels and doors were in very good shape, only minor patching required after removing the rust and an area around the rust. There isn't even a hint of the "cancer" returning. All the sheetmetal was brand new from Mercedes with the current level of corrosion protection. In essence the sheet metal is better than what came new on the car. In the long run, if you plan to keep the car, doing it right will last much longer than less evasive repairs.

Having experienced this - I will never repair a rusty car again. If I go temporarily insane in the future and take on another rusty project I believe replacing it all is the only way to guarantee lasting results.
 
#3 ·
I second that - get new sheet metal! All body panels are very reasonably priced at MB. Unlike all other parts. Fenders are bolt on and the rear corners and quarter panels are very easy to replace. Quicker and cheaper than rust cancer with bondo. And no filling and sanding, filling and sanding, fine coating and sanding, fine coating and sanding etc etc.
Replace, sand, prime, sand and paint. Voila!

Harald
 
#7 ·
Joatex,

I have had some success using wled-thru zinc primers and replacement panels. This will give you a bit more coverage for those spaces that become nearly impossible to access afterwards. If you can coat the interior spaces with waxoyl or similar product you should be "go to go" for a long time.

If you are doing you door panels(or any other panel that creates a cavity, such as the rockers) be sure to allow for ventilation/ cleaning/ rust proofing. Whoever did the doors on my G covered up the drains in the doors and guess what? more rust!!!!

I believe that I read in a MB manual that the body plugs should be removed so the cavity can be cleaned out and rust-proofed every so often. If this was done on more vehicles they would be in far better condition.
 
#8 ·
If I may give a contrarian opinion, I say patch. Down under we have NewTech filler which does not hold moisture and is rock hard and highly adhesive. Grind out rust, fill holes with the Newtech (about NZ$20), skim coat with bondo (NZ$12)to get a smooth finish, spray with primer (NZ$12) and topcoat with a custom matched paint put in a conventional aerosol spray can (about NZ$35).

Short work, lasts for years (don't know how long, none has failed yet). I drive my G about the same as you, maybe 1,000 miles, mostly on the farm, short runs to the ferry wharf (we live on an island) and hauling horse floats (teenage daughter). The 82 280GE LWB is not a pretty garage queen.

The safety is not compromised with this panel rust, because the separate chassis is different than a unibody car where rust is a serious hazard in a crash. You could cut out half of the body steel in a G and it still would be the strongest body made.

A body restoration, where one seeks to restore the G to classic originality is a different proposition entirely. I'm doing that with a Bristol 411 and an Alfa Duetto. Much more work to achieve a different outcome. If you have the money and time, fine. But otherwise, a weekend with a grinder, a can of bog, a sander and a spray paint can makes a lot more sense...
 
#9 ·
If you want some piece of mind regarding the metal that you cannot get to. Once you complete your welding in of the new sheet metal the Mercedes dealerships have a tool that will inject a product called Cosmoline (not sure of the spelling)into the body channels to keep moisture out. I recently ask about this and I also about the hot wax injections offered. They recommended the cosmoline over the wax.
I will be having this done this year to my 300gd cab. I will let you know how it turns out.

Mark[:D]
 
#10 ·
Well that's interesting. When I lived in Central the air was so dry ferrous metal had a light surface coating of rust,that's all,same at Hurunui. But in Auckland (1960)I used Fisholene on the convertible because high humidity rates caused havoc. Guess you have no salt-on-the-roads to content with,although the salt laden breeze must contribute to rusting. Many thanks for the info. Joatex
 
#11 ·
Joatex - 6/30/2005 6:29 PM

Well that's interesting. When I lived in Central the air was so dry ferrous metal had a light surface coating of rust,that's all,same at Hurunui. But in Auckland (1960)I used Fisholene on the convertible because high humidity rates caused havoc. Guess you have no salt-on-the-roads to content with,although the salt laden breeze must contribute to rusting. Many thanks for the info. Joatex
As shown in the photo from my office, we're close to the sea. When the southwesterlies blow the cars get coated in sea-salt. But its a small price to pay for the pleasure.
 

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#12 ·
toka - 6/29/2005 3:28 AM

As shown in the photo from my office, we're close to the sea. When the southwesterlies blow the cars get coated in sea-salt. But its a small price to pay for the pleasure.
What a great view to have from your office window. It looks like a very beautiful place to live. You are most fortunate!!
 
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