In an effort to improve my truck's brake performance I purchased new front brake pads and rear shoes. Since I didn't have a rivet gun for the rear, and a lack of available time, I took it into a shop that works on mercedes.
Here's where the problem comes...
The mechanic needs to remove the rotor in order to smooth it out. The problem is the bolts holding the caliper. 2 of the bolts are not original. One seems to be the same size and thread width and works. The other (positioned on top of the caliper) is the wrong size (thread width spacing) and was forced in to hold the caliper in place. After removal it no longer wants to work. It seems that the threads on the female end are damaged now...
What are my options? Buy an OEM bolt and force it?
Can it be machined? Do I replace that whole female end, which is that large metal casing covering the CV joint.
are you certain that one of the bolts is different? I remember they were always difficult to get in.
I agree with Alex - if indeed a foreign bolt had been forced in tapping might be the best solution. However, this has to be extra precise. The only way to get it right is by putting the caliper back on (with the lower bolt holding it) and then run the tap through the upper hole. Otherwise the bolt might not catch the the new thread.
Getting a new joint housing is an option - but very expensive. Maybe someone has a used one around.
Why would you need a rivet gun, Tom? Rear shoes usually come ready assembled.
Tom, look into installing a thread insert like a Helicoil into the damaged threads and return to a stock bolt. As strong and precise as the original threads. A good fastener supply will have what you need to do it. A kit has the proper tap, installation tool and inserts for under $100.00. Or find a machine shop or mechanic that can do it. It is critical to have the correct bolts in there. They are above grade 8 and have a specific torque.
the safest, least troublesome solution would be to get new/used joint housings (and the correct bolts of course) we could do that during our tech session.
Since the housing also carries the races for the bearings it might be wise to get a new set of bearings and seals.
The alternative would be to source a metric Helicoil set for an M 16x1.5 bolt. Find one and 2 new bolts and we are in business. Fix also on 5/22.
the safest, least troublesome solution would be to get new/used joint housings (and the correct bolts of course) we could do that during our tech session.
Since the housing also carries the races for the bearings it might be wise to get a new set of bearings and seals.
The alternative would be to source a metric Helicoil set for an M 16x1.5 bolt. Find one and 2 new bolts and we are in business. Fix also on 5/22.
Are you planning on replaceing your wheel bearings when you re-gear your axles?
If you are, why dont you could take the CV housing to a machine shop when you have it all apart, they may be able to drill out the bad threads and tap it with larger threads for a slightly larger diameter bolt.
I dont think the G is unsafe to drive, as long as that bolt they glued in there dosent fall out!
If I remember correctly, the heads are both 19mm, but the shanks and threads are of different size.
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