Recieved this from P21S in response to my questions about the 100% Carnauba wax:
I see you are referring to our new P21S 100% Carnauba Paste Wax Product.
What we make is a simple promise and it is written right on the package: "We guarantee the only kind of raw wax contained in this formulation to be Number 1 grade Brazilian carnauba from the copernica cerifera tree." Unfortunately consumers have been confused in that the final product (auto wax, or wax) is the same name as its key ingredient (raw wax). In a way it is like a cup of 100% Colombian Coffee. Fact is, 95%+ by weight is water! Here, you are correct that other ingredients are required to make a wax, namely oil(s) and solvent(s). Most manufacturers blend various raw waxes. So do we in our Concours-look Paste Wax which uses several waxes including Carnauba and Beeswax. Our 100% Carnauba Paste Wax Product is quite different in this regard, containing only Carnauba as its raw wax component. If you start using the terms "raw wax" and "finished wax" you will surely do your readers a good service. Even then, however, it will be difficult to compare waxes based on absolute content of carnauba, as manufacturers typically do not tell you whether, say 40% is meant as 40% of the total finished wax or 40% of the raw wax content. In our case, we have done so more clearly (as per our guarantee above), though for proprietary reasons we cannot divulge this as a percentage of total finished wax.
Kind regards,
P21S Customer Service
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That 100% carnauba wax seems like someone's either fudged figures or interpreting % in a special way.. I thought Zymol Royale had something like 70% carnauba, and that already costs something like 10k a tub(refillable for life or something like that). Can't imagine a 100% carnauba wax going for 50 bucks a pot.
Zymol royalle is all marketting, but it is an excellent wax. The price goes beyond it's abilities tenfold.
You are correct, as the % is interpreted in a special way, but they are actually referring to the previous version of their carnauba wax - which also contained beeswax to make it more pliable. I suspect they discovered a new carrier for the wax, so the beeswax is no longer needed. They definitely made it just as easy to apply without the need for the lighter waxes. If you've tried it, you will be hooked. So, really they might be trying to be a tad bit misleading, but honestly they are referring to their previous product. They're very specific with their products, and I have never noticed P21s to market their products in such a way. Seems more 'industrial' but is eaten up by the picky detailers because of how basic the wax and their other products are, nothing that you don't need at all. It's great stuff, all of it.
Negative, paying the guy the expensive $$ to use this, gets you that result... here's a snipped from that thread...
"Menzerna 106FF
Megs M105
CG MPT YELLOW Pad
CG MPT WHITE Pad"
That was paint correction that caused the most turnaround, not the wax, particularly a high-end was with no caolin clay fillers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by togwt
Percentage of wax content- most carnaubas advertised with 50% or more Carnauba wax content is truly advertising a weight, not a volume. 30% by volume is about 50% by weight is about the maximum content (approx 35% Carnauba by volume makes it almost impossible to add/remove) that’s why you never can truly assess the amount of Carnauba in a manufactured wax unless the manufacturer specifically lists its content percentage by weight or volume. When making a comparison ensure you compare like with like i.e. % volume or % weight
Yep, beeswax was a major additive in the previous version of P21S, still was amazing. It was this that was giving it the easy application and wipeoff.
EDIT: Looks like you all mostly got to it before me! :P Beeswax is key, amoung some various oils.
Haven't you used this stuff before? It's glorious, even the old formula. The new one is even better. Here's a posted by one of the best detailers in the USA, if not one of the best in the world no doubt.
Incredible photos BTW, surely you should check it out...
Frankly i don't give a hoot what is in it. P21s is one of my all time favs. Just look at the proof in post 32. It is easy to apply, relatively affordable, and leaves an awesome shine.
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Of all the different products i've used over the years my absolute fav for washing my cars is.......Murphy's Oil Soap.......yes plain old 3.00 a bottle oil soap. I had an 88 BMW cabriolet for many many years that i only washed with the stuff and almost daily someone would ask where i had just gotten my car painted and how good it looked. My first ex was a nuclear chemist who suggested why not try it on my car. At first i thought she hit her head when she reminded me that car paint is basically....oils...and pigment so i tried it and WOW!!! it's also a cumulative process; being the more you use it the better it looks. Also it seems to even keep non metal materials from drying out and i never need to wax!
That is EXTREMELY interesting! Can you tell us more about how you apply it - full strength, diluted, how much... Do you dry it afterwards and do you ever apply a typical auto wax after using the murphy's? I would love to try this (on the wife's minivan first, of course!)
I would avoid using Murphys on car finishes. I know there are some who swear by it but I base my opinion on several reasons:
1. The primary component of Murphys is Potassium Soap of Vegetable Oil. This accounts for approximately 20-30% of the content. The balance is Sodium EDTA, Propolyene Glycol, miscellanaous surfactants and fragrances and 50-80%water.
2. The pH is approximately 11.0 ± 0.6 which is VERY alkaline.
3. The MSDS specifically states to avoid reactive metals like aluminum, brass, bronze, etc. (this is important for the health of aluminum wheels and various other parts fabricated from brass or aluminum which could be contaminated by splashing)
4. It will remove ALL traces of wax or sealants.
5. If you use this on paint, even after rinsing there will be an oily film left behind that has to be removed by washing with a degreaser like Dawn or Ajax to remove the film prior to waxing or sealing.
6. The product was specifically designed for use on finished WOOD.
I have always been a proponent of using things for their intended applications and this is no exception. Leave the Murphys to the floors and cabinets and get some car wash soap.
After washing with Murphys what would you wax your car with...Pledge?
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