mess up a car? haha.. I can vomit on a paintjob and make it shine better than ANYTHYING you could ever do when it comes to detailing. get lost.
Do you think that’s a mature way to handle that? If a post pisses you off to the point you’re using words like “vomit” and “get lost” then maybe it’s time to just ignore it.
Do you think that’s a mature way to handle that? If a post pisses you off to the point you’re using words like “vomit” and “get lost” then maybe it’s time to just ignore it.
Anyways,
I don't know who you talk to about polishing, but I did a single full compound with Menzerna Powergloss, Super intensive Polish, and then Nano Polish - all on my own BMW last summer. I haven't touched it since then, and I still have a nearly perfect finish (even under halogens) because I wax/seal it every 4 months on average, which isn't expensive at all. (All I'd need to do to repair any imperfections that may occur now is use a light polish like FP or another pass of nano with the rotary) The reason it got so bad is the PO never waxed it before I purchased it.
Really, if you do things right, you don't have to polish all the time, this is true. BUT, if the car has never been waxed or polished, it's unlikely if the car is over 5 years or even 3 years old that it will be clear of noticeable residue that even the amateur can distinguish. Although, it is up to the detailer/client decision regarding what action to take, but what is mandatory after a polish is a seal of some kind. This is the one factor that determines a freshly polished paint job that stays clear or not, and I must emphasize that this shouldn't be done every week, but about once every 4-6 months depending on climate product etc...
sounds like a repeat of what I've been saying all along.
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Yet, without wax, the cars finish is not slick, it has a low surface tension. This allows for anything to stick to it and remain. Whether it be mineral deposits, tree sap (Fkin worst, especially if it ages and completely dries) But with practically any type of paint protectant even SLIGHTLY present, it will repel and make these contaminants that much easier to remove, most of they time they just "pop" right off, because the bond to the paint isn't nearly as strong as it would have been on a bare surface. That's no understatement, it's hell on earth to remove some contaminants that have stained, etched, etc...
agreed.
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Overall, no need to polish and wax every week, just keep a small layer of protection, and you'll be good to go. (Heck, I didn't even waxd my car for 6 months during the crazy Oregon winter weather, which isn't even close to being a joke BTW, it's serious weather. I think I even waited 4 months to wash the thing. Yes, I got lazy and preoccupied with school, but my LSP prevailed.)
this is where a QD is all you need between washings/deatils In my opinion.
IF the car is pretty clean(upon sight), I'll just spray the car off with hose water all around to knock off any loose dirt, etc..and then clay the areas where I see the most visible contaminants. then run the water hose on low and run my hands over the car to try and detect more sticky dirt, etc. then clay those areas. then go into actually "washing" the car. Currently I'm using California Gold.
IF the vehicle is covered is mud, dirt, etc. washing is the most logical step prior to claying the vehicle so I can see what's left to work on.
sounds like a repeat of what I've been saying all along.
Not quite. I have yet to be even slightly comfortable with your level of paint correction knowledge. This is the main tool of a detailer, anything short definitely isn't worth payment, as most everything else is not specialized knowledge like paint correction is. The fact is, 90% of vehicles coming into a detailer are going to require some level of paint correction. This does not mean it needs to be done every two weeks, but the initial work done by a detailer can be retained with relative ease (as with my BMW) if it is maintained properly.
IMO, I think you are confusing a maintained surface and an unmaintained surface. Pre-detailed or OEM and a surface in dire need of help. I have yet to hear from you your ability to discern a true polished surface from a swirled surface. People hire a detailer to make their vehicle look perfect, and what you are doing almost classifies and maintaining the finish, but that of course was nullified when you explained your clay procedures, among other things IF the surface was not in need of polishing, and you followed your clay procedures, it would indeed need to be polished, as swirls would be incurred. You would be unknowingly damaging the paint - and if you get caught, you're getting sued. I'm not being mean, this is the truth.
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Originally Posted by benz rider
Here's my procedure with claying:
IF the car is pretty clean(upon sight), I'll just spray the car off with hose water all around to knock off any loose dirt, etc..and then clay the areas where I see the most visible contaminants. then run the water hose on low and run my hands over the car to try and detect more sticky dirt, etc. then clay those areas. then go into actually "washing" the car. Currently I'm using California Gold.
IF the vehicle is covered is mud, dirt, etc. washing is the most logical step prior to claying the vehicle so I can see what's left to work on.
hopes this helps.
There are two problems that appear right off the bat.
Dry contaminants such as bird poop, or greasy and dry contaminants with dirt/dust in them as well. These will not be washed off by water, but even the most gentle car soaps will remove them. Otherwise, these are going to build up between the clay and the finish, regardless of how much lubricant is put on the surface.
Also, loose, invisible contaminants are even even larger threat, and will not wash of with water, but must be agitated even for the cleanest looking vehicles. These will cause severe damage to the finish, and swirls will occur. Maybe you cannot see them, but they are there, particularly under a halogen or in the reflection of direct sunlight.
So, I still have not received the detailed explanation of claying a vehicle, you just said, "then clay the areas where I see the most visible contaminants" I'd like to know specifically how you go about that, I didn't meant to be unclear in my question.
It's great you are using California Gold, but the QD should be mentioned - as it's MUCH more important of a factor than the shampoo you're using. Let alone the actual clay bar.
Benz Rider- I'm just a new-boy to this forum (but been around detailing for five decades and other detailing forums for awhile)
Sharing knowledge / experience should not have to be an ego thing, if it works for you all well and good. But if you post information that is contrary (polite way of saying incorrect) you should should expect to be corrected and/or hear other opinions.
Detailing forums are or should be for the exchange of ideas and knowledge
Anon
FWIW- DetailingWiki might be an interesting source of information on detailing clay and other subjects
Benz Rider- I'm just a new-boy to this forum (but been around detailing for five decades and other detailing forums for awhile)
Sharing knowledge / experience should not have to be an ego thing, if it works for you all well and good. But if you post information that is contrary (polite way of saying incorrect) you should should expect to be corrected and/or hear other opinions.
Detailing forums are or should be for the exchange of ideas and knowledge
Anon
FWIW- DetailingWiki might be an interesting source of information on detailing clay and other subjects
) But with practically any type of paint protectant even SLIGHTLY present, it will repel and make these contaminants that much easier to remove, most of they time they just "pop" right off, because the bond to the paint isn't nearly as strong as it would have been on a bare surface. That's no understatement, it's hell on earth to remove some contaminants that have stained, etched, etc...
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