I don't have to tell people how good I am, MY customers do that for ME!!!!!!!!! Detailing wheelwells, Door jams and tires is Child's play, Do you remove the BUGS from the Radiator? Wipe the INSIDE of the of the Exhaust tip??? Clean and Polish inside the Fuel Door??? Now, Be Honest, Do you???
yes. and it's absolutely nothing wrong with that either. the clay bar comes with the liquid solution to keep the surface moist while you extract the 'sticky' contaminents. the bar is going to collect dirt whether you wash prior or after. no problem. fold it over and keep going. you're not damaging anything or applying anything to the paint. if you wash before you're just adding an extra step because you want to. and that's ok. we're all 'anal' when it comes to detailing.
I've worked on show cars before and approach things totally different. but most of the cars I work on now are daily drivers not garage queens so I only get 'anal' on mine and maybe 2 others. the rest don't even want that because they are going to call me back in 2 weeks covered in mud or pollen anyway.
still waiting on pics.
I have to interject here. There IS something wrong with claying a car without washing it first. If you read EVERY SINGLE clay manufacturer's explicit instructions EVERY ONE of them instruct you to wash the car first. The purpose of the lubricant is to help the clay glide across the paint allowing it to pick up the VERY SMALL surface contaminants. If you clay over a dirty car you may as well just wipe it down with sandpaper because thats what your paint is going to look like.
Again let me reiterate to people who dont know claying processes and are reading this thread...NEVER EVER clay your car without first washing it!!!!!!!
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"The true delight is in the finding out, rather than in the knowing." - Isaac Asimov
'99 SLK230 Sport
'00 ML320
'95 BMW 525iA (RIP)
'99 Honda Passport
I have to interject here. There IS something wrong with claying a car without washing it first. If you read EVERY SINGLE clay manufacturer's explicit instructions EVERY ONE of them instruct you to wash the car first. The purpose of the lubricant is to help the clay glide across the paint allowing it to pick up the VERY SMALL surface contaminants. If you clay over a dirty car you may as well just wipe it down with sandpaper because thats what your paint is going to look like.
Again let me reiterate to people who dont know claying processes and are reading this thread...NEVER EVER clay your car without first washing it!!!!!!!
After looking at my clay box, you are correct. strike my last comment. I didn't remember doing it on mine though and the clay bar didn't get much dirt on it if only from brake dust. thanks. see...I can take correction. but talking down, I won't tolerate.
wait...I do remember rinsing a few cars off before doing it though but not full soap and water.
Last edited by benz rider : 04-29-2008 at 01:10 PM.
Yes, of course! Polishing bolt heads on seat rails on a 160K mile car, using Q tips, toothpicks, cleaning and shining the spare tire and wheel are just some of the fun things to do when you over-detail a car!
But, its my personal car that I enjoy entering in car shows. When you have a car judged at a concours show, they take 'anal' to the Nth degree! I've spent over 40 hours detailng an already clean car for a show coming up.
Ron, tell me about it I think we share the same obsession.
How would you keep your freshly painted calipers clean without damaging the ever present lube which is right near and on the nice calipers? This car is a daily and winter driver!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by benz rider
if you have a good caliper paint on there(some use engine paint), then you can use a wire brush to scratch off the tuff stuff and maybe some white spirit to loosen it up. but it's always good to repaint them every year or so to keep them looking fresh.
I must interject here.
Do not use a wire brush on painted surfaces, especially if you're worried about keeping them nice.
There is no reason to have to repaint your calipers every year, that's ludicrous. Save yourself the time, because if you follow that logic, you might as well disassemble the calipers and clean them as well as the backside of your wheels by hand. ZERO need to repaint.
Use of gentle wheel cleaners that do not contain acids are recommended regularly, followed by wheel a good wheel protectant. I use various wheel cleaners, but as stated before, use a cleaner that is "safe on all forged or coated wheels" something to that effect, it should say, regardless of the brand. As a protectant, I use Rejex on wheels - It will help keep anything from bonding with your wheels and calipers, keeping them clean - hence no need for scraping off the paint and repainting.
I've never even heard of this vandalism.
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EuroLux:. Private Auto Detail
Portland, OR
.... As a protectant, I use Rejex on wheels - It will help keep anything from bonding with your wheels and calipers, keeping them clean - hence no need for scraping off the paint and repainting.
Interesting product! I use Wheel Wax to keep brake dust off my wheels, but I looked up Rejex and found this:
I don't use carnauba wax on wheels, especially carbauna waxes of lower quality. Reason being they yellow slightly with age, and don't last as as long. I use a sealant on wheels, always.
Honestly, I'd be surprised if your "wheel wax" contans any carnauba, if it's a newer product at least. It's probably a sealant, just like Rejex.
The reason I chose rejex for wheels is I wasn't as happy with it compared to zaino or p21s on the finish. I have a bunch extra and figured it still had a use. It's like meguiars synthetic sealant and a glaze with caolin clay all mixed together. As stated on the bottle, it's a great soil barrier and applies in a snap, but I don't think it is as good looking on the paint.
Keep up the great work.
I think we share the same obsession. 
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